pulling truck

[spencer_41188]

dose anyone have a pulling truck they wana share some info on or post some pics

i have a 1980 gmc k3500 cab and chassis and i found a shorter frame i would like to put the cab on to meet the wheel base limit this is going to be an all out pulling truck. the frame is from a 78 k20 its got a dana44 and 14bolt and i have a bigblock and a small block laying around and when i do my tranny swop the old 4 speed will go in this still have to get a tailshaft and t-case to bolt up to the 4 speed and a clutch peddel but that should be eazy to find

the only other reason of getting this frame is because i bought the gmc for the 4x4 parts but my crew cab is too long to pull with inless its an open pull with fue rules

on this frame im thinking about welding the rear axle to the frame and putting a ladder bar setup up front with coil overs and hopefully a cheap set of 15" wheels with diffrent off-set so fornt tires stick out more and i have cheaper tire options

any other tips/tricks?

[JPalmer81]

What class are you going to get it initially set up for?

I would immediately start looking for a D60 up front and lockers are a must front and back on a pulling rig.

You will probably have to have 3 rings around the rear drive shaft and 2 on the front, and you will have to have a kill switch, which that is an easy fix. Your flywheel will have to be a steel billet with like a 40,000lb tensile strength and an SFI approved bellhousing or scatter sheild, any exposed u-joints will have to be shielded all the way around.

I would start out in one of the stock classes and work your way up, cause it is going to take some major bank to have a competitive pulling truck, believe me.

Almost all the lower classes require cast iron heads, and depending on what class you are in will determine if you can have any weight sticking out past the front of your front bumper.

A lot of guys cut the bed floor out, the key is to have as little amount of weight in the back and as much weight as you can put up front weighing down the front.

I would def get different offset wheels and some guys will cut there rear axle tube down making it narrower all together.

I love truck pulls, been around and involved in them my whole life. With the huge popularity of diesels it is making quite a comeback. I am sure there is something I am missing, just focus on u-joints, chrome/moly axles and a good dual disc clutch. Get all driveline components from the tranny to the ground taken care of FIRST, then start making some major upgrades to the motor, other wise you are going to be breaking things left and right, well, you will break things no matter what, but whatever you can do to help is good. Good luck.

[spencer_41188]

this is the lowers class for 4x4 trucks in my area
there is a dana60 on the truck now but i really wont my crew cab to be a 4x4 if i get the frame i'll just have to save up to get a dana 60 and a cab and chassis 14 bolt run dially hubs up front ... its still stock and there off set lol and the hole no hanging weight up front no problem tires will hold water and theres nothing that says i cant

this is just to get my foot in the door if i build it right break the stuff thats bad and build it better people will start looking my way and names will start going on my truck and the classes will change its not a get rich plan its just a having fun with your good at

Michindoh Truck and Tractor Pull Association

6000lb. Stateline Pro-Street 4wd

General Rules:
1. Trucks must be licensed, street legal, and have proof of insurance.
2. Drivers must wear approved helmet and seatbelts.
3. No hood modifications.
4. Tires must be D.O.T. approved for highway use. 12.50 x 33 inches, or 305-70-16 metric maximum tires size. No cut tires. No boggers. No recaps.
5. Stock one ton driveline or less, OEM u-joints, driveshaft, rear end, transmission and transfer case. Trucks must have complete suspension in factory location with at least 1” of travel but may be temporally blocked to pull. All rear-end bars must be forward of rear axle.

6. No special bumpers, snowplow hook ups, or brush guards. Front bumper must be in stock location and nothing protruding beyond the bumper.
7. The decisions of the pulling officials are final.
8. Trucks must have reverse lights of some sort.
9. Points Class
10. Must have drive shaft loops and U-joint covers, scatter-proof bell housing or blanket, and a kill switch.
11. Any unsafe manner of vehicle (on or off track) will be disqualified.
12. Top 3 placing trucks may be teched after pull. Any truck in violation will forfeit placing and hook fees. Tear down and protest rules apply.

13. Fuel cells can be added but must be secured inside the bed or under the bed.
14. All drive lines in factory location, maximum wheelbase 134 inches. No narrowing of the front or rear axle, 3 rear leaf springs minimum. (No moving axles or transmission or engines).

15. Truck must have a full body. No gutting of truck. Trucks must have full bed and a solid floor made of metal or wood with rear inner fenders and all factory glass. No flatbeds.

16. Any truck that has been lightened in anyway may be penalized by adding weight to the rear of the vehicle at the discretion of the tech official

17. All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher.

18. Must have working brakes on all 4 wheels.


Weights:
1. Weights can be added, but must be secured and not visible in the front of the vehicle. Weight must be secured and can be visible in the bed of the truck.


Hitches:
1. Hitch is to be no more than 22 inches off the ground, and hook point must be 42 inches minimum from center rear axle. All vehicles must have easy and ample access to the hitch to hook chain. Pivot point of hitch cannot be forward of center of rear axle and must be below top of frame rail. No bars or chains from hitch to axle. All bars or hitch components must fasten to the frame rail only.
2. Hitches must be tight and have movement in any direction.


Engines:
1. Maximum 472 cubic inch. Naturally aspirated. Engines must be in factory location.
2. Single four- barrel carburetor, maximum 4150 flange allowed. No Dominator, King Demond, or predator carburetors allowed.
3. No fuel injection unless factory equipped.

4. Cast iron block and heads must be used. No aluminum blocks or heads unless OEM to that vehicle. All blocks and heads must have OEM part number. No Merlin or Dart parts.
5. Aluminum intakes are allowed.
6. Headers are allowed. All exhausts must run through the muffler and be at least to the rear of cab.
7. No magnetos.
8. Electric water pumps are allowed.
9. 94 octane gas or less. No race fuel, alcohol, LP, Nitrous oxide, fuel additives or E-85.

10. All engines are required to have a S.F.I. approved balancer and flywheel.

[JPalmer81]

Originally Posted by spencer_41188

this is just to get my foot in the door if i build it right break the stuff thats bad and build it better people will start looking my way and names will start going on my truck and the classes will change its not a get rich plan its just a having fun with your good at

If anything it is a "get more poorer than you already are" plan

[spencer_41188]

maybe a 2wd bigblock but i will need to shorten the frame

i wana make my 87 a 4wd and i have all the parts to the swop

it would be cheaper and i can make it 4wd later on