My DD's new guts!

[17again]

Hey guys, 17Again here. Some of you may remember me from my 66 GMC 4x4 build, the truck is still coming along, just havent updated the thread. Anyways, mosts of you have never seen my DD (yes, it is a DAILY DRIVER and has gotten 13,000 miles on it in just shy of 2 years) Well the ol' buzzin' half dozen is worn out, and im running with about 8-11 lbs. of oil pressure, time to replace the old girl. I parked the truck for the past 2 weeks and have just been riding my Harley. Well I got hurt at work on Friday, and that left me alot of time to think of what I was going to do with Baby Blue. I made a few phone calls, and ended up with a, erm, "stock little 305" and a Borg Warner T-10 out of a 62 Vette, for 400 bucks. Well I went to the shop where my motor was ( i know the builder very well) and I flipped the block and pulled the oil pan. Nelson Racing forged crank out of the should-be-famous 1000 HP twin turbo '71 camaro that floats around Pittsburgh Raceway Park, 4 bolt main caps, a set of Indy Aluminum heads with a full port and polish, valve work and guide work done, hardened seats and stiffer springs, 11.5:1 pistons, block is .30 over after a micrometer check, making it really a 310 C.I.. High-lift cam with widened oil galleys, but what puzzled me was the 2 barrel intake and the ram horn manifolds. The builder tells me that he had the motor in his asphalt car, yanked it for a new one and rebuilt this one to put in his street rod, but got in a serious steel mill accident (got run over by a 12 ton Cat forklift) and push came to shove, sold the street rod and here the motor sits. He had to choke the motor down with a 2 barrel intake and stock manifolds to restrict some of the power, needless to say I already have an Edelbrock performer and a full set of Hooker long tubes. So why the price for the motor and trans? Builder likes me alot, and has lost hope that his son will ever get into hot rods. He is running out of time for storage on the motor and wants to see something done with it. He didn't even know if the transmission was any good, but after pulling the side case all the teeth and synchro's check out good, so a thorough bearing check will be done after it's put in

Now for my questions. I was reading another post that I do not have to run a rear cross member on the trans, as it may prove to be too rigid and shear the ears off the case if the motor has too much torque. Input on that?

Obviously many have done v8/ 4 speed swaps so what all will I have to modify when it comes to mounts? I heard I could use the stock frame mounts and bolt v8 motor mounts right to them. Shortening a drive shaft wont be hard, my father is a machinist.

Has Anyone used this hurst shifter;
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc-...ifters-3910001
in their trucks, and what is the fit like? do you have to cut any floorboards out or make any crazy mods?

This is my first high horse motor swap and Im doing this one right, as this is my DD and I need it to be reliable, yet kickass when I want it to be. I understand it's gonna be a handful to drive and Im even going to take some edge off the motor but I do track events alot and im not afraid to jump on this truck. I had it in a burnout contest for 6.5 minutes til I shredded both tires It'll be a definite sleeper/farm truck theme, and Im really looking forward to this.

All help is appreciated, and pictures of the motor are on the way! Thanks guys.

[markeb01]

What a beautiful truck! Years ago I had a 283/4 speed 57 Chevy short ½ ton. The 4 speed mounted off the back of the original cast iron bellhousing and never had a problem. It was the standard solution.

I started out with the shifter in your link in my truck (350/Richmond Super T10), but ended up not liking the tall shifter handle. It was like rowing a boat to me, so I went through several shorter versions, each bent to a preferred angle. Somewhere along the way I decided I’d rather have a Street Super Shifter. Rather than replacing the whole thing, I just bought the mounting bracket and rod kit. With the Super Shifter mount, the shifter head is moved back and up into the cab and the rods are straight. There’s good and bad in the swap.

On the upside it’s like having a power shifter. Much easier to shift with shorter throws. Downside is it won’t work with a bench seat. Post #38 on my build thread shows the shifter in your link, and the height of the stick relative to the dashboard. It also shows the Super Shifter mounting and rods as well. Just pointing out the differences so you make an informed decision:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=444502&page=2

The engine/trans package sounds like the deal of a lifetime. Good for you. Should be a lot of fun after sitting behind the six for so long.

[Clyde65]

as original as that looks, why not rebuild the tired motor, with 13k miles, this is what I would do just for the resale.

[aerotruk63]

Now don't take this wrong ,,,,pretty truck!
I like my inline, but then I'm older now. Smokes the tires when I want. You know small block parts fit into and on Inlines. Enjoy the monster in your youth but save the reliable for when you get old.

[17again]

Originally Posted by markeb01

What a beautiful truck! Years ago I had a 283/4 speed 57 Chevy short ½ ton. The 4 speed mounted off the back of the original cast iron bellhousing and never had a problem. It was the standard solution.

I started out with the shifter in your link in my truck (350/Richmond Super T10), but ended up not liking the tall shifter handle. It was like rowing a boat to me, so I went through several shorter versions, each bent to a preferred angle. Somewhere along the way I decided I’d rather have a Street Super Shifter. Rather than replacing the whole thing, I just bought the mounting bracket and rod kit. With the Super Shifter mount, the shifter head is moved back and up into the cab and the rods are straight. There’s good and bad in the swap.

On the upside it’s like having a power shifter. Much easier to shift with shorter throws. Downside is it won’t work with a bench seat. Post #38 on my build thread shows the shifter in your link, and the height of the stick relative to the dashboard. It also shows the Super Shifter mounting and rods as well. Just pointing out the differences so you make an informed decision:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=444502&page=2

The engine/trans package sounds like the deal of a lifetime. Good for you. Should be a lot of fun after sitting behind the six for so long.

Thanks! That helps alot. And Ive been following your truck for a LONG time, and I absolutely love it. Im using a lakewood Blow proof bellhousing, if that makes any difference. I have a bellhousing cross member in my truck, i was just concerned with the tail shaft mount.

Originally Posted by Clyde65

as original as that looks, why not rebuild the tired motor, with 13k miles, this is what I would do just for the resale.

The truck is relatively stock, but Im not one for resale, and my plan all alogn was to put an eight cylinder in to get lower RPM's down the highway. I am rebuilding and racking the 6 cylinder though, theyre far too good of engines to scrap.

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Now don't take this wrong ,,,,pretty truck!
I like my inline, but then I'm older now. Smokes the tires when I want. You know small block parts fit into and on Inlines. Enjoy the monster in your youth but save the reliable for when you get old.

Thanks! I do plan on rebuilding the Sixer and racking it, it was a good engine and never gave me trouble. Theyre too good to scrap.

[Clyde65]

Well then, go LSx then! you want tire frying, get the 6.0 and cam/turbo it. that would give you lots of power and economy too! well as good economy as you could get that is.

[gimmy 64]

i had a built 283 in a 56 chevy along time ago. it was basically a 69 z28 motor but beter. muncie 4spd. car ran mid 13's--350 horse pretty good for 1969. 4:11 gears tho

[MikeN]

If the engine was in a circle track car, the 2-bl carb and cast iron exhaust manifolds were likely required by the rules.

I don't think you're going to liket the racing camshaft nor the 11:1 compression in a truck used on the street. JMHO.