starter foot switch help.

[lmdangerous]

I have converted my 51 -3800 long bed to a 250/2004r combo .I found a factory automatic column, shifter, etc and swapped it all in so as to look factory - i must say it looks good even if i did it.
NOW the problem . I wanted to keep the foot starter switch ( iknow -iknow), so I used a heavy duty foot /push button switch from a M farmall- ( 25$ ouch) and bolted it where the factory foot starter mechanism comes through the floor board.Machined the steel head for the factory switch to set on top of the new switch and it looks factory. I wired the switch using current from the battery pole on the starter sol. to the switch and the other side of the switch to the S terminal on the sol. . I soildered cannections ,shrik wrap , etc cause I am a neat freak. when i used the button it burned the battery side wire almost to a crisp, but no harm to the S terminal wire.
I checked the switch on and off the truck.Its good . I also used a screw driver to check the starter and soilinoid and it engauges and spinns over.
Whats going on ? I have checked every connection , no grounding or shorts , switch is good. Its done this 2 times in a row!
Could it be the soilinoid on the starter???
I really thought this would be easier , and lees crap under the dash - guess thats what I get for thinking
LOL
LMD

[_Ogre]

it sounds like you have it wired right,
i'd check the circuit with a multimeter before burning anymore wires
the switch or your linkage maybe grounding out the circuit
a fuse would have saved your wires too

[mknittle]

what size wire?
Can you post some pics I would like to do somthing like that on mine.

[lmdangerous]

I used 14 gauge wire - soildered the ends, shrink wrap, etc. Makes no sense. i can text the photos r email the quicker . i always have problems getting photos on photo bucket etc, to work.

[_Ogre]

even 18 ga wire would work for what your doing
disconnect your starter and push the switch
i'd bet that the wire would still fry

disconnect the battery
push the switch
check with multimeter

[lmdangerous]

I checked the switch with nothing hooked still bolted to the floor board,
with a test light to the battery( + side) - both terminals on the switch- if either was grounded -ie a short in the switch- wouldnt it come on???? I may try to take the switch apart and look - cant take it back now anyway-its only got 4 little meatal tabs that are folded over the backing.

[Russell Ashley]

I think your switch is grounding to the floor when you depress it. Try removing the switch but leave the wires connected, hold it where it is not contacting any part of the truck, and pressing the button. Or, if you have an ohm meter, disconnect the wires to the switch and check for continuity from switch terminals to ground when you press the switch. Are you sure that switch is simply a double pole/single throw switch?

[booger1949]

somethin is grounded for sure, i did almost the same thing as u did on my 49 but i used the foot pedal an assembly but i put my starter switch outside an the foot starter just pushes it down an it cranks, i would say a ground is hurting u

[booger1949]

look if u need any help with that email me at fireater610@yahoo.com an leave your number an ill try an help u figure it out, dont mind helping

[lmdangerous]

I pulled the switch- and left the wires hooked up( the half melted ones). Works great. I also looked up the numbers -ST 26 from ecklin/napa. It appears this thing is used in about everything 12 or 24 volt.
I did tear the starter down. The sol. switch on my starter showed some signs off sticking - and the spring was really rusty ????? strange. It did however work when I used a screwdriver to jump it accross before I took it off and down to inspect.
The floor switch shows no sign of being hot , or melted terminals either . I tested it from both sides. it never got hot in my hand when I held it - when i used it like a remote starter switch. I am going to run another lead on the battery side( install a fuse link) and try again . My gut says starter solinoid ,but we will see.
I didnt think this switch needs to be insulated from the floor board , but It has to be either the solinoid, ( on the starter )- or the switch is grounding on the floor board.Will KNOW when i try it later
lmd

[lmdangerous]

Looks like it is the switch . I gotta get another . I used several other switches with the new leads - no problem. Unitl next time - Thats all folks.
LMD

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking that your modification to be able to run the stock floor button on it may have caused a short inside the switch. Those switches are usually pretty rugged and sit outside in the weather for years on end and still work.

[lmdangerous]

True . I am going to take it apart and see where. I suspect when it got bolted down it distorted it , and it shorted out that way. All it really can be -thats all thats left.
Will be back on as soon as i know - thanks guys
LMD

[lmdangerous]

Hey guys IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Switch was bad. Would you believe My NAPA store gave me a new one .Even in the end when I unbolted from the floor board and held it in my hand it worked - I explained that - took them the switch- and they said it looked like a factory defect, and gave me a new one. Usually on electrical when you install- its yours.
I can email pics if some one wants some - I can do it from my phone - install the little rubber snubber and you want be able to tell its not factory - it looks tha good.
Still - thanks for all the support guys. I was really thinking i was going nuts.This would work engine in these trucks.

[mr48chev]

good to see that you got it squared away.

[_Ogre]

glad you got it fixed, but...
you need to learn how to use a multi meter
that would have been a 2 minute fix in my shop
harbor freight gives them away, there is no reason not to have one
check any auto mag for the hf ad, top of the page is a coupon for a free multi meter

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

glad you got it fixed, but...
you need to learn how to use a multi meter
that would have been a 2 minute fix in my shop
harbor freight gives them away, there is no reason not to have one
check any auto mag for the hf ad, top of the page is a coupon for a free multi meter

I agree' I have an old radio shack electronic one that must be 15 or more years old. the thing i like about it is for continuity it has a buzzer.works great for the times looking at the meter is hard or impossable.

[booger1949]

glad u have it figured out for sure, youll enjoy that starter button on the floor, every body here in louisiana an in mississippi goes wild with the button still in my truck,

[lalablue57]

Hi there IMDANGEROUS... I am having a similar issue. I am changing from the 235 to a 327. The bell housing will not accept the starter from the 235. therefore I have to go electric. Do you have any pictures of your setup that you could post or send me?

[lmdangerous]

Been a while,sorry for the delay. I simply went to NAPA and got the push button switch for the M farmall tractor. Drilled two 5/16 holes (one accross from each other) around the factory foot switch hole in the floor board. Bolted it in and wired it just like the push button switch to any GM solenoid. The trick is to get the factory rubber pad that goes on the manual foot switch and glue( epoxy/ or what ever ) to the M farmall switch. They will have to look very close to ever know that it is not factory.It fits the factory hole and no cutting is done, if the floor board is factory they will not be able to.
That truck actually is in Montana now.I have been busy building a 41 willys.
Chances are that any NAPA store has that switch , it is also commonly used on a lot of early Bulldozers, etc.
LMD

[lalablue57]

Originally Posted by lmdangerous

Been a while,sorry for the delay. I simply went to NAPA and got the push button switch for the M farmall tractor. Drilled two 5/16 holes (one accross from each other) around the factory foot switch hole in the floor board. Bolted it in and wired it just like the push button switch to any GM solenoid. The trick is to get the factory rubber pad that goes on the manual foot switch and glue( epoxy/ or what ever ) to the M farmall switch. They will have to look very close to ever know that it is not factory.It fits the factory hole and no cutting is done, if the floor board is factory they will not be able to.
That truck actually is in Montana now.I have been busy building a 41 willys.
Chances are that any NAPA store has that switch , it is also commonly used on a lot of early Bulldozers, etc.
LMD

Posted via Mobile Device

[lalablue57]

Thanks I will give it a try. We just got a NAPA store here about a year ago. Hopefully they carry the same stock as in the USA. I will let you know when it's in and going.
Lloyd.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mr48chev]

Here's what the switch looks like http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...T26_0180433671

That's a serious switch that should handle far more than the load kicking on a solenoid would put to it.

[lalablue57]

I have finished my floor starter conversion. I bought the SW6 switch instead of the SW26 switch. It is taller and fits better and is $15.00 cheaper than the SW26. I stretched a 3/4" copper plumbing cap slightly and drilled a hole on the end of it. I put a 1x3/8" fine thread bolt through the end of the cap with a washer and locknut and put the cap on the top of the switch. (The bolt is the right thread for the factory button that you step on.) I then fabricated a couple of plates for inside and outside the firewall. I welded 3/4x1/4 inch bolts to the inner plate then ground the head off the nuts. I have attempted to attach photos of the parts and the finished installed switch. Thanks to everyone for the help on this project.

[Highsider]

Nice job.
Looks stock, to me!