New Chevy owner could use some help....

[psycobilly77]

Well I just got this rig- 77 stepside 4x4 with 4"(?) lift on 35s.350, M20 4spd, 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear.
I have several issues, but I'll start with the major ones--

1- The front of rear spring hangers are toast. 30 years in Indiana has taken a toll. To the point I'm amazed they're still supporting the weight of the truck with less than 3" still attached to the frame!! My ?? is what year trucks can I cut new ones off of?

2- I need to replace the hubs. Someone has only put 1 mile marker lockout on it, the driver side still has the auto lock . I wanted to know if there are any inexpensive manuals out there. Durability isn't a huge issue since it won't be a hardcore wheeler, but cheap and durable is always good.

3- Lastly, the clutch doesn't engage till the pedal is nearly at the top of the swing. Can I adjust this, or is a new clutch in order?

Any help will be appreciated!!

[spencer_41188]

i would find a 73-80 to get the hangers from and being from indiana myself i would pull both front and rear hanger with the spring take it home and take your time taking it apart, clean it up and paint it you will need bushings

autozone or advanced has cheap lockouts you wont find those in a junk yard they go quick

the clutch idk when they went to hydrolic but if its hydrolic it soulds like its time for a new one

[MalibuSSwagon]

77 should have manual linkage, the adjustment is on the lower pushrod usually

[legendman]

I just put a set of milemarker premiums lockout hubs on my K20.
$85 from Summit.
I wouldn't use a el cheapo set from the parts stores, they will crap out when you need them most.

Maybe you could get just one hub from milemarker and save some dough

[psycobilly77]

I thought about just doing one hub, but there's no telling how long the other one's been on there. Does it have to be a 4x4? If so can I use the hangers off a burbon?

[sqzbox]

Originally Posted by psycobilly77

I thought about just doing one hub, but there's no telling how long the other one's been on there. Does it have to be a 4x4? If so can I use the hangers off a burbon?

Don't forget to count the splines before you buy. I got a used set of warns and they didn't fit because the spline count was wrong #.

[JPalmer81]

Unless someone put the sm420 in your truck it is a sm465, the last year they put 420's in was 67' I believe, but they are pretty much the same so no biggie......with the hubs, if you want cheap just go with the mile markers like legendman said, they make good stuff, I put the warns on mine, but that will set you back about $215 or so....for the spring hangers i agree with spencer, junkyards are a wonderful place, i can spend all day hunting around in one and love every minute of it, maybe I am just weird though???? And lastly, they switched to hydro clutch in 86 so you will have the linkage so you can see if adjustment will help or throw a new clutch on it.....LMC sells a kit to take all the slack out of your linkage setup if your interested.

[psycobilly77]

I may have to look into that LMC kit..... I have extremely long legs, so the lower the clutch the better .

[psycobilly77]

Also, would it be worth looking into a hydroboost system?

And here's a couple shots of the rig. Pretty ugly right now, but not too far gone to save .

[JPalmer81]

I think it looks awesome! great score on that man!

[psycobilly77]

Thanks man. It still needs a lot of work (rockers, cab corners, etc), but it seems pretty sound mechanically. I actually traded a 69 Caddy with a bad trans for the truck with the rust free fenders, good doors and unbent hood off a 78 K35. The guy wanted to keep the tires, but that would have been a deal breaker for me. 35x12.50s are way too expensive to buy new .

I had to cut the skin off the old driver's door, cut the latch open and break the mech to get the door off. The catch broke with the door closed and someone tried to pry it open with a crowbar

I want to turn into a pseudo-military truck. I'm probly gonna to paint it in desert tan (too many camo trucks around here) with all the chrome done in flat black like I've done the grille. I'm going to remove the pass rear fender, relocate the fuel filler and eventually fab up some Willys style rear fenders, tube bumpers and grille guard.

[psycobilly77]

I got the passenger fender off today and found out I gotta drop the tank to change the front hanger. I'm debating on trying to find a burban or blazer tank to put between the rear frame rails and get rid of the saddle tank.

[psycobilly77]

Also found out my clutch seems to be ok, but the rear brakes are hanging up. Looks like I just need new brakes instead of a clutch .

[JPalmer81]

Good deal with the clutch, the rear brakes are probably just rusted real bad, i went through some drums on an old dodge of mine and just cleaned everything up and cleaned all the springs and they worked like new, but you can buy a kit for pretty cheap.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I just did my rear brakes this weekend. Found out the real problem was the left rear parking brake cable was seized. Oh well new hardware and shoes were $27, the cable was $12 at Autozone and in stock too! The parking brake is now really easy to engage, it was worth it.

[psycobilly77]

Well when I get into them I'm going to replace everything. Shoes, hardware, wheel cyls and axle lines from the junction block. As for the parking brake, there's no real steep hills in IN so it's somewhat unneeded.

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by psycobilly77

Well when I get into them I'm going to replace everything. Shoes, hardware, wheel cyls and axle lines from the junction block. As for the parking brake, there's no real steep hills in IN so it's somewhat unneeded.

If you launch a boat you may need it. Nice feature to have. So many times I have seen people leave their ride in gear by accident and get out and it rolls off down the road because they did not set the parking brake.
I worked at a service station as a kid and have seen a lot but that's one that happened all the time.
In line tube has all the parts you'll need.

[psycobilly77]

I've had a few manuals trucks, and all but one has had the parking brake cable either cut or rusted solid (both in most cases). I've gotten very good at finding level ground and having the trans in gear when parked .

[psycobilly77]

I was looking at steering stabilizers today, and I was wondering if I could yank one off a junked Dodge 1 ton? Most of the aftermarket ones seem a little steep to me for no more than they are.

[sqzbox]

Originally Posted by psycobilly77

I was looking at steering stabilizers today, and I was wondering if I could yank one off a junked Dodge 1 ton? Most of the aftermarket ones seem a little steep to me for no more than they are.

I squashed my stabelizer on something in the bottom of a mud hole. The truck (76 4x4) stope so fast, the wife would have gone through the wind shield if she didn't have the seat belt on! I got another stabelizer from auto zone for not a lot of money. It might be cheap, but it's better than nothing.


76 3/4 ton, 350/th350 with shift kit, 14 bolt rear, 10 bolt front wi/4:09's and rear w/4:10's, Maxxis 31"

[86c20]

just as a heads up. chevy went to a hydo in 84 not 86 as my 85 is hydro

[psycobilly77]

Thanks for the info on the stabilizer.

Now I got a new problem.... Replaced the master cyl and rear brakes today. Went to bleed the system and I got no fluid at all at the rear wheels . I can't get the bleeders on the front calipers loose yet (soaking in PB blast) to see if I have any there. When I did the master cyl I cracked the bleeders to grav bleed it to get a jump on it. The driver side I had fluid but none on the pass side? Anybody got any ideas??

[sqzbox]

Originally Posted by psycobilly77

Thanks for the info on the stabilizer.

Now I got a new problem.... Replaced the master cyl and rear brakes today. Went to bleed the system and I got no fluid at all at the rear wheels . I can't get the bleeders on the front calipers loose yet (soaking in PB blast) to see if I have any there. When I did the master cyl I cracked the bleeders to grav bleed it to get a jump on it. The driver side I had fluid but none on the pass side? Anybody got any ideas??

You need to really to start with bleeding the rears first. Also, chevy's are notorius for the front brake lines kinking and collapsing with age. When I replaced the rear shoes, I swear I had to re-adjust them 4-5 times before all the slack came out and got a good pump up to the top to bleed them good.

[psycobilly77]

It would be really nice if they gave us a damn access hole for the adjuster too .

[sqzbox]

Originally Posted by psycobilly77

It would be really nice if they gave us a damn access hole for the adjuster too .

It's there stamped in the backing plate. Small sharp chisel and ball peen will remove it, then you can get the rubber plugs from napa to replace it when your done.