removing front sheet metal 1948 chevy truck

[sickred72]

how long does it take to remove the front end from a 48 chev pickup?

[OrrieG]

Depends on how much of the wiring you want to save. Rewiring with new harness, clip clip you are done. Remove some bolts, radiator hoses, bumper, hood (if it fits good drill 1/8" pilot holes in the firewall bracket and hood bracket sides). Find two strong friends and lift if off. I'd say 2-4 hours depending on how rusted the bolts are or it they just break off. If you are saving the wiring harness, add an hour to gently disconnect and remove everything from the inner fender panels and rad support.

[Indian113]

If your really in a hurry use the Smoke Wrench and cut the bolts.

[mknittle]

The problem with the cutting torch is you can warp sheet metal or damage parts. It likely will end up taking more time in the long run.I only use it when there is no other way.

[OrrieG]

I do not even own a torch just to avoid the temptation. Saw to many things messed up when I was younger by friends in a hurry.

[mr48chev]

Orrie pretty close on the 2 to 4 hours. A bit less if everything is pretty clean and there is minimum of rust, possibly more if there is a lot of dirt and rust. More if you are doing it outside in the dirt and closer to the two if you have it in a shop and up on stands.
Soaking the exposed threads with PB blaster or another rust solvent is a big help

If you have the truck inside or on a flat concrete surface jack it up and put it on stands and then take the front wheels off and take the front bumper off along with the brackets. I'd just unbolt bumper and brackets from the frame.

You can lift the nose over the bumper but it is a lot easier to work without it and the brackets there.

There are two bolts under the core support that need to come out.

Then you need to take the row of bolts that hold the fender to the body off on each side. If they don't come loose easily tighten them instead and snap them off.

You will also have to take the bolts out that hold the inner fenders to the firewall. there are a couple that are kind of hidden on the drivers side if the truck has the floor mounted park brake pedal.

You will also have to take the two rods that go from the fenders to the firewall off.
You can either remove the radiator or lift the nose off with it but it makes the front end several lbs. lighter if you take it out first.

Wiring as Orrie said and then lift it off and set it aside.

[sickred72]

thanks everyone for the advise! sunday morning is day i will start my build!

[mknittle]

Don't forget to start a build thread so we can watch.

[Indian113]

Originally Posted by Indian113

If your really in a hurry use the Smoke Wrench and cut the bolts.

Sorry,weak attempt at trying to be funny-I wouldn't recommend it unless you had too!

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Indian113

Sorry,weak attempt at trying to be funny-I wouldn't recommend it unless you had too!

Sometimes that is the best way though, like my front cab mount bolts.

[sickred72]

Ok very funny, it took me just over an hour by myself. not sure if you guys were messing with me or i just got it done! 14 bolts and off it came! And that included having to die grind 2 bolts and disconnecting the wiring. Maybe it was all the help i got from you guys on the site? Tons of parts im not going to use: new wiring, steering column, 5 new tires and wheels, completely rebuilt engine, generator, carb, etc. runs excellent!, new front and rear leaf springs, trans and 3 on the tree column etc.

[OrrieG]

Cool, definately combination of really clean truck and excellent directions from Mr48.

[sickred72]

Yes much thanks to mr.48!

[arturo7]

Pardon the newb question, but why did you not remove the hood?

[sickred72]

didnt have to....

[focusedontheprize]

This will be my project this upcoming weekend except mine will be going back on.

Do you remember the sizes of the bolts you pulled? Fender to body and the core bolts?

Thanks, trying to get an inventory of what I need.

[_Ogre]

really? you want to know the size of each bolt?
99% of the sheet metal is 5/16'' or 3/8'' bolts
so keep a 1/2 and 9/16 wrench handy

unless your rebuilding a trans or motor
these trucks are as basic as it can get


sickred, yes they were messing with you
none of us took more than 45 min to get the front end off
nice truck to start a project with

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

really? you want to know the size of each bolt?

Yeah I did thanks. I had to cut all my stuff so I wanted to know what they run original.

[mr48chev]

Most are 5/16. Threads vary between fine and course in the ones that don't have separate nuts. I think that the core support bolts are 3/8.

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Most are 5/16. Threads vary between fine and course in the ones that don't have separate nuts. I think that the core support bolts are 3/8.

Thanks I really appreciate it.

[sickred72]

fresh from the old memory, core support are 3/8 and the rest were all had half inch heads, i believe they were an 1 1/2" long which i thought was too long. 1" should be just fine....

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

This will be my project this upcoming weekend except mine will be going back on.

Do you remember the sizes of the bolts you pulled? Fender to body and the core bolts?

Thanks, trying to get an inventory of what I need.

Well, I wont start this weekend, as I pulled the grill and left fender about 25 or so years ago off my '54 and I don't remember where the screws/bolts came from. Sure, the other side is still on and I could check that but I would like to know before I take the other side off.

Looking at the photo, I think the sheet metal type screw came from the grill and all the rest from the fender. The inner fender is still attached so whatever bolts for that is not in the picture. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Clay

[robin58]

One of the most complete lists I've seen of many of the original sized bolts:

http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2005/bbpartshp2.htm

[CHIZZLER]

hey man lookin good.if you like where the front wheel was in the fender then mark your centerline now and wright it down.i believe the crossmember centerline is the same as the wheel centerline on the scotts kit.justin can answer that question for you if your not sure.on my burb from the front frame rail to the front side of the croosmember it 18"7/8.if you want to look at how mine came out let me know.

[mr48chev]

Thanks Robin58 I stuck that in my folder for the 48.

Good advice on marking the wheel location Chizzler as that becomes a big issue if you get it wrong when you put one of these trucks back together.

Sickred most of us have never take apart a truck that was that clean top and bottom. we usually have to do it on the just drug out of the field project trucks. Back when I taught auto shop and had access to a Landa hot water pressure washer I'd raise the front of the truck as high as I could get it and steam clean the bottom side before taking it in the shop but now days it's roll around on a piece of cardboard in the driveway and get dirt in the face when I work on something.