dual wilwood MC's w/brake pedal

[suspect]

has anyone used this setup on a c10? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...-Bar-p-79.html
on that site, click on one of the lower images and you can see it with the MC's mounted on the pedal.

how do you like it? do you have any photos of installation & what it looks like mounted?
i would like to run this setup or just a wilwood tandem MC w/stock booster.

thanks.

[lolife99]

Anyone?

[CNC-C10]

Are these the dual master cylinders you are taking about?
CNC-Series-240-Dual-Cylinder-Brake-Assembly-p-18683.html
Not sure what the advantage would be for this kind of set up.
Gary

[suspect]

lolife - thanks for helping out.
cnc - yeah, that's the same setup. my reasoning is that i would like to get rid of the booster for the cleaner look, but i don't want to give up the braking comfort. everyone i see running the single tandem MC deleted the booster, and they do say braking isn't all that bad but it still isn't the same as with a booster.
i've done other searches and found some cameros, vettes, rods, etc with this dual set up. what i get out of it, is that it's the same as with a single MC, maybe just a little better if any.
scotts hot rods says i can run the wilwood MC with a stock booster, so that's ultimately what i may do. my truck will be a driver more than a show piece, so cleanliness under the hood isn't #1. but i'm still undecided, it's only about $300 so i may just try one out anyway.

[robnolimit]

I have used this type many times. Mostly in hi-perf applications. Use a rear master that is 1/16" larger bor than the front. Like 3/4" bore front, and 13/16" bore rear. This set up will take a bit more pedal pressure and more pedal travel to operate. You will need to develop 1000 to 1250 psi max. I suggest investing in a brake pressure guage, from speedway or wilwood, this will help you get the balance right. Also, use a more aggressive brake pad, such as a Hawk or Wilwood bp-20

[Portmod7]

Just my $0.02...

What you're looking at is most commonly used in racing applications where brake bias is used to tune the handling of the car under braking. More front brake makes the nose want to push and more rear brake makes the rear want to step out. Theoretically you could set it up to change the bias in several other ways, but I've only ever seen it front to back.

Rob would know better than I, as I'm sure he's got a lot more experience, but I don't think this setup is really going to solve the problem you seem to be concerned about. I don't think there is anything about this system that will "improve" pedal feel on a manual system when comparing to a power system. The best thing you can do for that is do your homework and select the correct master cylinder bore and pedal ratio. In the end, I think you'll still know its a manual system when you push the pedal, but for me that's not a bad thing.

If you are building a car that you plan to have on the autocross a lot, I think this setup would be a good idea. For a daily driver type of vehicle thats more likely to be sitting in the parking lot at the racetrack, probably not what you're looking for.

On my truck I went with a 7/8 bore tandem Wilwood master for my manual brake system. I also stuck with the stock ratio. If you do a search for brake line sizes or brake system design, I posted the details of my setup not too long ago. I shared why I chose what I chose and gave a couple references. Some others also posted some good information you might find helpful. I haven't driven mine yet, or I could share the actual results.

Hope that helps!
Posted via Mobile Device

[suspect]

thanks guys. experiance and opinions is what i was looking for. i will probably move on from this idea.
portmod - cool build, i was just checking out yours last weekend.