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09-09-2012, 09:52 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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Dana 60 brake caliper questions
I have an 89 v3500 dually. The front 60 doesn't have the normal slide bolts for the calipers. It has a Allen head bolt on the lower rear of the calipers almost at the 5 o'clock position.
I have done searching and everyone says to remove that Allen head bolt and beat on the locating wedges/spring inside to knock it loose then it slides off. My question is what about reinstalling. Do these springs/wedges stay inside the caliper? Or fall out? Once the bolts removed and this spring/wedge is loose does the caliper just slide off like normal? Before I tackle this today and screw something up I need some more clarification incase something goes wrongs I can get to the parts store before they close. Thanks everyone Posted via Mobile Device |
09-09-2012, 10:00 AM | #2 |
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Location: Ruskin Florida
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Try to not beat on any part of your vehicle. They have feelings you know,and a good memory.. A little prying should do it. You slide these pieces out and the caliper should come right off. Are you doing a brake job?
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09-09-2012, 10:21 AM | #3 |
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Yes I am replacing pads. Rotors are still good
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09-09-2012, 10:23 AM | #4 |
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Machine the rotors! #1 mistake everyone makes. Even new "machined" rotors need to be turned.
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70 swb 4x4 406sbc 700r4 203/205 d60/14blt locker yadda yadda http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...88#post6935688 Yeller 72 Blazer 2wd conversion project "No Daggum Money" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=550804 LS1-T56 3.73 LSD super budget build Blanco-2014 Sierra SWB https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=810350 |
09-09-2012, 10:28 AM | #5 |
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
I will on the next set. I know it sounds crazy but I'm on a tight budget very tight budget and I gotta replace pads. Now in a few more months I'll have the savings to do new higher quality rotors and pads. Right now I sprung for the 14 dollar pads as mine are down to the wear clips. It sucks starting over but it will turn around.
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09-09-2012, 02:26 PM | #6 |
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Yes the wedge and spring clip will just slide out from under the caliper, and then you can lift the caliper out. You'll need a drift punch and hammer to knock the wedge out, they can get stuck in there pretty tight sometimes.
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09-09-2012, 02:33 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: MA
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Pay attention to the position of the springs when you disassemble the brakes.
No beating required, but a small hammer and punch will get the locking pieces out pretty easily. |
09-10-2012, 12:21 AM | #8 |
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Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Ok so my front brakes are jacked up. Pass side needs a rotor those pads were gone. I can't get the drivers side off at all. Took out screw soaked it all down and it won't budge. How do I get it off. I can see the drivers side pads are like new.
So questions 1. What causes the one side to wear and not the other. I have had a slight pull and death wobble when braking. The pull was to the right. 2. How do I get the driver side caliper off. That piece won't budge either direction. I broke a hammer handle and screw driver tip trying. 3. Do I have to take off the lockout snaP rings and spindle nut to get the rotor off? Do the bearings need pressed in or can they just be dropped into place and reinstalled. What about the dually hub? Is it just bolted on from the rear cause that's what it looks like. My plan is to pick up a few extra shifts and go buy front calipers the new bendix pieces the rotors and some better pads since I'm gonna be going all the way. Part numbers would be awesome. Also what about bearings and snap rings for the lockout and rotor inner and outer. I'll need part numbers for them too. Oh and brake lines just in case. How bout a member in the Dayton area of Ohio. I'll feed u and I got beer in the fridge. If u wanna come help me. It would be awesome. Thanks everyone and hope u all have better luck than me Larry Posted via Mobile Device |
09-28-2012, 03:10 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: MA
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
Actually you need to get the hub/caliper off before you can get the hub assembly off.
Keep soaking with PB balster or the sort. Get a punch, not a screw driver, and a 3-5 lbs hammer. Work at it slowly and you'll get it. Heat will help if you are trashing the calipers, but be careful, as its now soaked in flamable liquids. The driver side caliper may be the reason its pulling to the right (sounds opposite) if its frozen up and not working. It could be only the right side brake working. Good idea with the brake hoses (just did that on my 87), but I never have any luck removing the steel lines without breaking them. Save yourself the aggrevation and get the steel lines too, right up to the metering block. I have no part numbers for the bearings, races and seals but you can get them at a good parts store. I can't remember if you need to press the rotors on/off too. A good NAPA store with machine shop may be able to do most of that for you. |
09-29-2012, 12:28 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: back 40, bc
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Re: Dana 60 brake caliper questions
try tapping the caliper up & down a bit, after years they can jam up tight on the wedges. your hub has to come off & the lock ring & spindle nut. the outer bearings will just pop out. once the hub is off, again you might have to tap the rotor to break it free. a frozen cal. piston or a leak or bad hose can stop a caliper in its tracks. outer axle seal killed this rear brake
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