Dana 60 hub retrofit

[davepl]

As mentioned in a previous post, I've converted my 70 402 3/4T front drums over to 1972 3/4T front discs. Since they switches from 1/2 to 9/16 lug studs in 1971, I now have mismatched studs front and rear.

What's my shortest path to getting 9/16 studs in the rear? I pulled one of the 1/2 studs out of the Dana 60 hubs, and a 9/16 stud is too large for the factory holes. I can't really just drill them out, as they're knurled, not just a hole, and I presume the factory didn't go to that expense without a good reason.

I know very little about Dana axles, though. Can I just find a set of 71-72 junkyard hubs and clean them up? Or are there other wear parts, like bearings, in the hub assembly?

Thanks!
Dave

[1972RedNeck]

Drill the holes out. Beat new studs in (the correct way is to press them in).

[davepl]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

Drill the holes out. Beat new studs in (the correct way is to press them in).

I dunno... that seemed like a bad idea to me and the concensus on Pirate4x4 is that your lug studs can work loose if the holes aren't properly knurled.

I might be picky, but I also press them both in and out (and not with a lug nut and washer, as they have to be pushed, not pulled).

Once you've had a wheel or two fall off a vehicle, you start to take these kind of details seriously...

[john]

If you buy junk yard hubs with bearings, keep the brgs in the same hub with the same races if you plan on using them. Its not a good idea to mix used brg parts.

[1972RedNeck]

As long as the lugs are in the hole tight, they aren't going to fall out with the nut on.

There are 2 ways to do things, the wrong way, and the right way.

Let's put it this way, I sold my GMC to get a Ford. Do you want to listen to me?

[davepl]

Originally Posted by john

If you buy junk yard hubs with bearings, keep the brgs in the same hub with the same races if you plan on using them. Its not a good idea to mix used brg parts.

That blows, I just had the entire rear end rebuilt, added a locker, new gears, bearings, the works. Close to $3000 into the dang thing, now it sounds like a second set of new bearings...

As loathe as I am to agree with the Ford guy, maybe I just should drill them out. If I keep it a tight interference fit you wouldn't think they'd go anywhere. But as I said originally, the factory guys didn't go to extra expense without reason... a couple of bucks a vehicle over a million vehicles adds up.

On the other hand, when I pressed in the new front studs I don't recall the rotors having anything other than plain round holes...

[john]

Just use the new bearings in the junk yard hub. Knock out the races and press in the new ones.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by john

Just use the new bearings in the junk yard hub. Knock out the races and press in the new ones.

So races are reusable (with their matched bearing) if you don't mangle them too badly? Hadn't thought of that, thanks!

Only thing is I notice on my worksheet that one of the bearings had been spinning in the housing, and so they had to machine the housing. Hope that doesn't mean its some weird oversize bearing... or would some new seat have been installed for the bearing after machining?

As you can tell I'm not a rear axle expert. It's on my list of three things I don't usually monkey with (paint, automatic transmissions, and rear axle guts).

[davepl]

I talked to a TGOM today who suggested the knurling I'm seeing in the hub hole was probably created by the knurling on the studs that were in there; so they may not actually be machined that way.

So, I decided to drill them out. Don't hold me to it, but if you're doing this I used a 39/64 drill bit on the hub and 9/16 on the drum.

I've been having trouble finding the right lug studs though. LMC doesn't have them, even Dorman doesn't have a listing.

I dug out my GM catalog and know the part number is:

71-72 Series 20, Conventional, w/Dana 3995888

Unfortunately I can't get 3995888 to cross reference to anything!