55-59 factory brake light switch........how do they work?

[NW Task Force]

Hey folks,

I installed an aftermarket under cab brake unit. The brake pedal lever actuates the same as the factory brake lever. My original brake switch is mounted on the bottom of the firewall and is disconnected. How exactly does this switch come into contact with the brake lever arm to activate it? I would really like to see some pictures of how it works. Thank you.

[OrrieG]

Switch is mounted on the firewall on the bottom slated part. The lever is depressed by the brake pedal arm, which has a rubber spacer to keep from damaging the switch. It is normally open. When you push the pedal the switch closes sending power to the brake lights. Actually a very reliable unit, I only replace mine once driving daily from 76 to 2000 with half a year off in 85 to add the 4wd. you can still get the switch at NAPA.

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

The lever is depressed by the brake pedal arm, which has a rubber spacer to keep from damaging the switch.

Cool! Thanks! I'd like to see a picture of where this rubber spacer is attached and contacts.

[waybad]

mine didn't have that rubber piece?

[OrrieG]

Brain fart. looked in the FAM and I must have been thinking of the rubber bumper they show on the clutch pedal. I went out a looked at mine the brake pedal is offset to keep from crushing the switch.

[_Ogre]

this is a pic of the stock brake lite switch
couldn't find a pic with the pedal in
like this is brake lites on
pushed back to the firewall with the brake pedal arm would turn the brake lite off

[NW Task Force]

Here is my current setup on the 57'. The original switch arm seems to be partially snapped off. I am using a similiar brake pedal lever arm (under cab master cylinder/booster aftermarket kit) and looking for a way to still use my stock brake light switch. I ordered a new replacement switch and hope to figure out a way to make it work with that pedal lever arm. Any ideas?

[Russell Ashley]

The arm on the new switch is about two inches long. It looks like it will work fine with the that new pedal arm.

[_Ogre]

the brake swing arm should come all the way up to the floor board
something is out of adjustment if that is ''at rest'' with no one pushing the pedal down for the picture

[oldcouple]

Figured out why my brake lights were not working, the original switch had died. How did one person install that thing? It is installed from inside the cab thru tapped holes in the bracket on the underside of the cab. Had to grind off the screw heads inside the cab and drive it out, will put the screws in from the bottom and add nuts to the inside. Duct tape to the rescue to hold it in place till I can bolt it down. The lever had a piece of fuel line slipped over it to make it larger, held in place with some silicone.

[OrrieG]

Borrow your wifes hot glue gun, excellent for temp holds, peels off metal.

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

the brake swing arm should come all the way up to the floor board
something is out of adjustment if that is ''at rest'' with no one pushing the pedal down for the picture

Interesting...........yeah the brake swing arm is "at rest" in the picture. The arm and brake booster/master cylinder is all aftermarket. The kit is designed for a 55-59 Chevy/GMC truck application. The only adjustment is a threaded hyme joint piece at the booster. It is possible that this aftermarket unit's swing arm does not work with the stock brake light switch?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by NW Task Force

It is possible that this aftermarket unit's swing arm does not work with the stock brake light switch?

Then why didn't the kit provide a brake switch that would work or instruction on how to buy or fab one? Looks to me like the rod between the bottom attachment and the booster is too short. How far does the pedal stick up on the inside? If you are stuck with that pedal configuration then you will need to make up a bracket that uses a normally off push button switch that the arm pushes on when up. Or you could weld or bolt an angle to the arm parallel with the firewall that would like up with the stock switch.

[Russell Ashley]

In my first post I assumed that the pedal was not in it's fully retracted position. My stock brake pedal sits about 8" off of the floor. How high is the pedal when the arm is in the position shown in the pic? The curvature of the arm looks like it is designed to come all of the way up to the firewall, and if it did the stock brake light switch would work as designed. You may just need a longer push rod from pedal to m/c. There should also be a spring on the pedal to keep it in the fully raised position.

[NW Task Force]

Yeah, I took some more pictures for you guys to see on my setup. All the pics are taken with the pedal lever arm "at rest", all the way up. Trying to figure out the best/cleanest way to make the stock brake switch work. I'm thinking about extending the switch closer or maybe adding on a bracket to the brake arm?

[Rude Dude]

This a brake light switch for a street rod on egay but in reality just a modified 55-59 truck switch maybe you can use this type.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2503589...Types&var=sbar

[Russell Ashley]

I think your main problem is that there is no return spring on the pedal. In your pic the pedal is still 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the stock height. I think I would try adjusting the push rod and also adding a return spring to the pedal arm. You should have some free movement of the pedal before it starts to activate the brakes.

[oldcouple]

Here is the original switch with its rubber sleeve to increase contact, sitting on the replacement box.