63 C10 Won't Start!

[63ChevC10]

First off, hello everyone. My name is Jerry and this is my first post to this forum. I recently bought a 63 C10 long bed with the 230-6 and 3 on the tree. It ran rough when I bought it, but it was good enough to get it home. In the process of trying to clean up the fuel system, I seem to have made it worse. I put some fuel treatment in it, a new filter, a new fuel pump, and I rebuilt the carb. It will start, but that often takes a bit and when it does it seems to only run until the bowl is dry and then it dies...yet the bowl has fuel in it. I checked the output from the pump (didn't measure PSI output) and it seems to be putting out plenty. The last time it died I took the top off of the carb while it was still on the engine and it was full of fuel. I did notice that it doesn't give that squirt of fuel when I pump the throttle. I'm thinking that's the key to this, but I can't figure out why. I'm on the edge of buying a rebuilt carb, but before I do I wanted to see if any of you have suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

[1963c-10]

Sounds to me like there is still some junk in the carb...or was in the lines and is now in your carb. Should be fuel squirting out when the pedal is pressed. Id take the carb off and disassemble/reassemble. Also....you might want to pull the sending unit in the tank and check the screen over the fuel pickup. This will also allow you to inspect the inside and bottom of the tank for debris. Its a simple job...only 5 screws and disconnect the fuel line. If its getting spark and fuel, you should be able to get it to fire. What carb? Im guessing rochester model B w/the 230.

[geezer#99]

Choke working?
Look at the points in the distributor yet?

[61_FL_Apache]

Check fuel pressure.

[63ChevC10]

Thanks everyone. I had the carb apart and soaked it in carb cleaner for about 2 days. Then I blew it out with water and then air to dry. The distributor cap is new, points are new, spark plugs, wires...all new. I'm seriously considering going with a rebuilt one. I found one online for 118 plus core. Anyone know of a better deal?

[1963c-10]

Is that for the carb? Thats a pretty good deal.

[woodscavenger]

Definitely sounds fuel related but my guess would be the carb. Had a similar problem with a 50 Dodge 1bbl Carter. Rebuilt it x2 and got it right the 2nd time.

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Is that for the carb? Thats a pretty good deal.

Yep, it's for the carb. I thought it was a good deal too.

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by woodscavenger

Definitely sounds fuel related but my guess would be the carb. Had a similar problem with a 50 Dodge 1bbl Carter. Rebuilt it x2 and got it right the 2nd time.

I'm hoping it's the carb because I think I'm buying a new one soon. I've rebuilt this one 2x and it's still kicking my butt!

[63ChevC10]

Ok so here's the latest. I took the carb apart again and did some more cleaning. It'll start but it won't stay running for more than about 10 seconds, and that's when I have the choke on. I'm still not getting a squirt of fuel when I pump the throttle...and the bowl has fuel in it. Can anyone tell me which of the holes in the carb the squirt of fuel is supposed to come from? That might help me decide what passages on the carb to focus on. Thanks

[63ChevC10]

Here's a bump and a bit more info with what it did today. Started it cold with the choke out. Started right up and ran until it was warm and then died. I thought maybe I had just choked it out so I opened the choke and it still wouldn't start. I'm wondering if it might be the heat riser in the manifold cause a vaccum leak when it warms up? And still no shot of fuel down the intake when I pump the gas...

[oem4me]

Are your floats ok? Did you inspect/shake them to determine if any gas leaks in? float drop set to spec? Sounds a bit like it might be flooding.
Also, if you are not getting a squirt upon working the pedal, the accelerator pump is not doing it's job or the outlet is probably plugged. The passage goes from the pump and exits a tiny hole in the throat of the carb. See the arrow in the illustration below where it says pump jet. if it's plugged it may be hard to see at first, but use a bright flashlight and poke around the wall of the carb throat with a fine wire till you find it. This will not make your truck idle any better, but it should help initial acceleration a ton.

[Turkey]

Originally Posted by 63ChevC10

Ok so here's the latest. I took the carb apart again and did some more cleaning. It'll start but it won't stay running for more than about 10 seconds, and that's when I have the choke on. I'm still not getting a squirt of fuel when I pump the throttle...and the bowl has fuel in it. Can anyone tell me which of the holes in the carb the squirt of fuel is supposed to come from? That might help me decide what passages on the carb to focus on. Thanks

Top one

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by oem4me

Are your floats ok? Did you inspect/shake them to determine if any gas leaks in? float drop set to spec? Sounds a bit like it might be flooding.
Also, if you are not getting a squirt upon working the pedal, the accelerator pump is not doing it's job or the outlet is probably plugged. The passage goes from the pump and exits a tiny hole in the throat of the carb. See the arrow in the illustration below where it says pump jet. if it's plugged it may be hard to see at first, but use a bright flashlight and poke around the wall of the carb throat with a fine wire till you find it. This will not make your truck idle any better, but it should help initial acceleration a ton.

I appreciate your help! I did check the floats, but they are always worth looking at again. I just got home from work and I'm going out now to hopefully find the problem. The picture will help a ton. Thanks again!

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by Turkey

Top one

Thanks!

[1963c-10]

The heat riser sticking wont cause a vacuum leak. You will find it on the driver side just under the carb on the exhaust manifold. See if its stuck, should move freely. If not, you should be able to tap it free. It redirects exhaust through the manifold to heat up the engine faster, but it wont cause the problems your having. PCV valve, vacuum lines and intake/exhaust gasket, and vacuum advance should be your only vacuum sources. Unless you have power brakes or a vacuum guage. Im still inclined to think its a fuel issue. Check for cracks on the carb bowls....I have had several that have cracked over the years as they are made from pot metal. How was the engine runninng when it ran? Smooth, rough...etc?

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

The heat riser sticking wont cause a vacuum leak. You will find it on the driver side just under the carb on the exhaust manifold. See if its stuck, should move freely. If not, you should be able to tap it free. It redirects exhaust through the manifold to heat up the engine faster, but it wont cause the problems your having. PCV valve, vacuum lines and intake/exhaust gasket, and vacuum advance should be your only vacuum sources. Unless you have power brakes or a vacuum guage. Im still inclined to think its a fuel issue. Check for cracks on the carb bowls....I have had several that have cracked over the years as they are made from pot metal. How was the engine runninng when it ran? Smooth, rough...etc?

It ran decent enough to drive at first, but definitely not perfect. It had a lot of hesitation and stalled a lot. All of that went out the window with the fuel treatment. I ordered a rebuilt carb today. I hope to have it by Friday. I appreciate the response.

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by 63ChevC10

I'm still not getting a squirt of fuel when I pump the throttle...and the bowl has fuel in it. Can anyone tell me which of the holes in the carb the squirt of fuel is supposed to come from? That might help me decide what passages on the carb to focus on. Thanks

Ok, so if the carb is installed on the truck and you are standing in front of the grill leaning inward and looking down the throat of the carb, lets call the front of the carb throat six o'clock, and the back, twelve ..got it? The outlet hole for the accelerator pump should be at about 11:56 on the inner wall of the carb throat down about 1/4' below the line separating the lower bowl from the upper cover. See if you can poke a wire in there and get some fuel flowing.
I know you already got a carb on order, but find that darn hole and clear it just for the heck of it.

[63ChevC10]

Originally Posted by oem4me

Ok, so if the carb is installed on the truck and you are standing in front of the grill leaning inward and looking down the throat of the carb, lets call the front of the carb throat six o'clock, and the back, twelve ..got it? The outlet hole for the accelerator pump should be at about 11:56 on the inner wall of the carb throat down about 1/4' below the line separating the lower bowl from the upper cover. See if you can poke a wire in there and get some fuel flowing.
I know you already got a carb on order, but find that darn hole and clear it just for the heck of it.

Yep...got it. Had the carb off night before last. Cleaned out the hole and it checked great on the my work bench. I put it back on the truck and it did start, but died after about 2 minutes. I looked down the throat as I pumped the throttle (with it on the truck) and no spray. Yet the bowl has fuel in it. I'm so done with this carb.

[67GMCcampercruiser]

I'm wondering if this issue was solved. I'm having the exact same problem. New fuel pump, points, condenser, distributor cap, plugs, rebuit the carb, took the carb apart 4 more times. Had it running previously for an hour with no issues. Thinking next is pull out the new tank sending unit to check the screen.

[67GMCcampercruiser]

Problem was with the wire plug behind the ignition switch.