Front brake drum question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Yachtcare · 05-28-2003, 02:00 PM

Replacing the front drums on my '61 Apache 10. The original hub assemblies are fastened to the drums with three rivets. The new drums do not have any provision to fasten the drums to the hubs, unless I take them to a machine shop and have them drilled. I personally do not know what the reasoning is to having the drums fastened permanently to the hub, but that doesnt mean there isnt a good reason for doing so. Should I make a trip to the shop, or just skip it? TIA, Tony

Brad · 05-28-2003, 02:04 PM

You could always drill a hole in the rivets, gradually stepping up the size of the hole and then smack the head off with a chisel.

Yachtcare · 05-28-2003, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the reply,I guess I didnt make my question clear, Getting the hubs separated from the old drums is not the problem, The question is, is it necessary to re-rivet(or grade 8 bolt) them to the new drums?

Brad · 05-28-2003, 02:12 PM

I'm pretty sure you don't need to. The hub is held on by the spindle nut and cotter key. Your wheels and drums stay on by way of the lugnuts. I wish I could explain better, but it's been several years since I had to do this to mine.

Lippyp · 05-29-2003, 08:51 AM

I had the front drums off my 67 a while ago and I found it extremely strange that they were rivetted to the hub. Your wheels will keep the drum nice and secure, next time mine are off the rivets are history!

**COBALT** · 05-29-2003, 02:05 PM

Personally I'd get rid of those rivets, and I'd have the holes in the hub assemblies threaded for flat headed/standard head (not phillips!) machine screws (so you can tighten them with an impact driver). That's what holds my drums to the hub assemblies now and I've had no problems. If your drums are in spec then they'll have to be beveled to take the screw heads so you won't have clearance issues with your wheels.

Any brake shop should be able to do this for you if they're worth their salt. Otherwise you'll have to separate the hub assmblies from the spindle, take a drum with you, and have it done at a machine shop.

hanssolo · 06-07-2003, 05:46 PM

I agree. My '69 was like that . I drilled them out just to service the brakes after I bought the truck. Freaked me out. I think they were done to keep some metal meat on if a drum blew-up. But if you don't shave them down close to specs that should'nt happen.

PJ_STYLES · 06-07-2003, 10:52 PM

Take the rivets out they are a pain in the neck! I took mine out a long time ago and didn't put any rivets or bolts back in. If you do everytime ya want to replace the drum shoes you will have to take the whole hup off and that just sucks! I just grinded the heads off mine and punched them out. Now they come off easy for break pad check etc.

Don't even fill them back in just a waste of time. I still got the 4-way drums on my truck

05-28-2003, 02:00 PM	#1
Yachtcare Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 35	Front brake drum question Replacing the front drums on my '61 Apache 10. The original hub assemblies are fastened to the drums with three rivets. The new drums do not have any provision to fasten the drums to the hubs, unless I take them to a machine shop and have them drilled. I personally do not know what the reasoning is to having the drums fastened permanently to the hub, but that doesnt mean there isnt a good reason for doing so. Should I make a trip to the shop, or just skip it? TIA, Tony __________________ 1961 Chevy Apache 10 SWB fleet, 1970 GMC 1500 SWB fleet(getting 6.2L Detroit turbo Diesel), 1994 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually 4X4 6.5L turbo Diesel. 1990 Chevy class "C" RV on G van chassis. Pics at www.picturetrail.com/yachtcare

05-28-2003, 02:04 PM	#2
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	You could always drill a hole in the rivets, gradually stepping up the size of the hole and then smack the head off with a chisel. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

05-28-2003, 02:09 PM	#3
Yachtcare Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 35	Thanks for the reply,I guess I didnt make my question clear, Getting the hubs separated from the old drums is not the problem, The question is, is it necessary to re-rivet(or grade 8 bolt) them to the new drums? __________________ 1961 Chevy Apache 10 SWB fleet, 1970 GMC 1500 SWB fleet(getting 6.2L Detroit turbo Diesel), 1994 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually 4X4 6.5L turbo Diesel. 1990 Chevy class "C" RV on G van chassis. Pics at www.picturetrail.com/yachtcare

05-28-2003, 02:12 PM	#4
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	I'm pretty sure you don't need to. The hub is held on by the spindle nut and cotter key. Your wheels and drums stay on by way of the lugnuts. I wish I could explain better, but it's been several years since I had to do this to mine. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

05-29-2003, 08:51 AM	#5
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	I had the front drums off my 67 a while ago and I found it extremely strange that they were rivetted to the hub. Your wheels will keep the drum nice and secure, next time mine are off the rivets are history! __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

05-29-2003, 02:05 PM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Personally I'd get rid of those rivets, and I'd have the holes in the hub assemblies threaded for flat headed/standard head (not phillips!) machine screws (so you can tighten them with an impact driver). That's what holds my drums to the hub assemblies now and I've had no problems. If your drums are in spec then they'll have to be beveled to take the screw heads so you won't have clearance issues with your wheels. Any brake shop should be able to do this for you if they're worth their salt. Otherwise you'll have to separate the hub assmblies from the spindle, take a drum with you, and have it done at a machine shop. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

06-07-2003, 05:46 PM	#7
hanssolo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: central Ill. USA Posts: 447	I agree. My '69 was like that . I drilled them out just to service the brakes after I bought the truck. Freaked me out. I think they were done to keep some metal meat on if a drum blew-up. But if you don't shave them down close to specs that should'nt happen. __________________ 69 C10 longbed: 357c.i. /TH400/3.73s/AC/ beige primer/saving $ for paint ______________________________

06-07-2003, 10:52 PM	#8
PJ_STYLES Rockers1/2"off the ground Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 205	Take the rivets out they are a pain in the neck! I took mine out a long time ago and didn't put any rivets or bolts back in. If you do everytime ya want to replace the drum shoes you will have to take the whole hup off and that just sucks! I just grinded the heads off mine and punched them out. Now they come off easy for break pad check etc. Don't even fill them back in just a waste of time. I still got the 4-way drums on my truck __________________ 1962 fleetside: bodydropped,shaved,bagged,custom 64 suspension,clear taillights,custom aluminum parts,rollin on 100 spoke player wire wheels. http://www.finelinedesignz.ca



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