Breaking issues plz help this is my D/D!!!!

[cmyc5575]

Ok I bought this truck back in May as a bday present to myself and there was already an issue with the ds caliper engaging late and causing the truck to pull to the left. So no big deal I would just replace the caliper and that should fix the problem. I havent gotten around to doing that yet, but my issues that I am havnig now has gotten worse. When I am driving the truck and hit the brake to slow down the brakes work just fine but, when I start taking off again I can feel the front brakes are still grabbing and will not release until I hit the brake a few more times. This in turn is causing the truck to bounce and skip when I'm driving. Any advice or suggestions to what I need to do is much appreciated.

[RastaRobb]

Yup, it's doing more than just "making the truck bounce and skip" it is burning up the rotors as well. Sounds like the piston is not retracting properly. Get that caliper changed out quick, and you make stronly consider doing the other side as well. Check the rotors as well. If they are warped or grooved you need to be replacing them too. Call it an early Christmas present to yourselft.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by RastaRobb

Yup, it's doing more than just "making the truck bounce and skip" it is burning up the rotors as well. Sounds like the piston is not retracting properly. Get that caliper changed out quick, and you make stronly consider doing the other side as well. Check the rotors as well. If they are warped or grooved you need to be replacing them too. Call it an early Christmas present to yourselft.

Yeah I figured that it was causing the rotors to get hot becuase you can smell that "burnt" smell when its happening and its also causing me to have to push the gas down alil more than normal to get the truck to take off. Is there any other Issues that could possibly cause this to happen? I just want to make sure that I have every base covered so I dont give someone in front of me a new rear end lift.

[Hevy]

Don't wait so long if you have brake issues... May to October is too long.
I'd change both calipers and pads, check the rotors.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by Hevy

Don't wait so long if you have brake issues... May to October is too long.
I'd change both calipers and pads, check the rotors.

I plan on addressing it this weekend.

[meter swinger]

I would just do the whole mess. I used to get rotors turned and try and save the calipers. Now on the front I replace all of it. Its not that expensive anyway. Look at the cost of calipers, rotors, pads, hoses as cheaper than an accident.

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[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by meter swinger

I would just do the whole mess. I used to get rotors turned and try and save the calipers. Now on the front I replace all of it. Its not that expensive anyway. Look at the cost of calipers, rotors, pads, hoses as cheaper than an accident.

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I totally agree. lol I just called auto zone oreillys and advanced auto parts and all of them want these codes to make sure that i buy the correct parts. One wanted me to measure the back drum brakes just to get the size for the front rotors. Im about to pull my hair out, and I cant tear into them until this weekend.

[clinebarger]

Front brake hoses!!!!!!!

[legendman]

^^^ Ditto could be caliper hoses collapsing, I would replace those too.

What year is the truck? 2wd or 4wd?
1/2 or 3/4 ton.

If it's 2wd 1/2 ton then only choices should 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch rotors.

[clinebarger]

Should be a RPO list in the glove compartment. JB3, JB5, JB6, & JB7 should be the choices, You should be able to order any brake part you need with this code.

[kenbob87]

ive also seen it happen a time or two when brakes are sticking and people keep driving them they heat up the grease in the bearing to the point that it leaks out which in turn takes out the wheel bearings

[rwhit57]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Front brake hoses!!!!!!!

99% of the time this is the problem.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by rwhit57

99% of the time this is the problem.

How much am I going to have to pay for some of these.

Legendman: its a 1982 gmc high sierra 2wf

Clinebarger: i didnt have any "jb" codes the only one that I have is that one says "J50 power brake system".

[legendman]

Originally Posted by cmyc5575

Legendman: its a 1982 gmc high sierra 2wf

.

?? 2wf? Do you mean 2wd? 1/2 or 3/4 ton?

If it's a half ton then they only came with 2 different brake systems

1 inch or 1 and 1/4 rotors should be all you need to know to get the front calipers, pads, rotors and hoses.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by legendman

?? 2wf? Do you mean 2wd? 1/2 or 3/4 ton?

If it's a half ton then they only came with 2 different brake systems

1 inch or 1 and 1/4 rotors should be all you need to know to get the front calipers, pads, rotors and hoses.

Oooops lol Yes 2wd its a 1500. But what about the rpo? Clinebarger stated jb something another when all I see is j50?

[meter swinger]

Originally Posted by cmyc5575

How much am I going to have to pay for some of these.

Legendman: its a 1982 gmc high sierra 2wf

Clinebarger: i didnt have any "jb" codes the only one that I have is that one says "J50 power brake system".

Classic parts has front hoses for about 20$ per side. You may find them cheaper locally. Like everyone says they are prone to collapse. I would do it all ( pads discs calipers hoses) since the truck is new to you and the overall condition is unknown. Then you would know what ya got
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[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by meter swinger

Classic parts has front hoses for about 20$ per side. You may find them cheaper locally. Like everyone says they are prone to collapse. I would do it all ( pads discs calipers hoses) since the truck is new to you and the overall condition is unknown. Then you would know what ya got
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Yeah I just had one of the a/p coworkers here look at them for me and stated that I should try this to. Along with buying new ball joints because they looker worn out.

[hatzie]

I usually get loaded calipers, rotors, and hoses online from RockAuto Loaded calipers come with pads and hardware usually including guide pins. You can get the real cheap stuff... But... Raybestos or Wagner loaded should be around $40-$60 a caliper with the core charge. Good rotors are pretty cheap and quality name-brand hoses are usually right around $10.

I usually flush the whole system, with fresh fluid from an unopened bottle, till it runs clean out the front and back bleeders. It cuts down on the water and internal rust.

TRW and Moog used to be good names in ball joints. IDK anymore. I think they're all made in Asia or India now.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I usually get loaded calipers, rotors, and hoses online from RockAuto Loaded calipers come with pads and hardware usually including guide pins. You can get the real cheap stuff... But... Raybestos or Wagner loaded should be around $40-$60 a caliper with the core charge. Good rotors are pretty cheap and quality name-brand hoses are usually right around $10.

I usually flush the whole system, with fresh fluid from an unopened bottle, till it runs clean out the front and back bleeders. It cuts down on the water and internal rust.

TRW and Moog used to be good names in ball joints. IDK anymore. I think they're all made in Asia or India now.

Yeah I was thinking going with Moog but havent quite started doing any price comparing just yet. Im more worried about my brakes. lol

[Keith Seymore]

Here's the brake system release chart for an '87, for reference:



One of the things you could do is look for a code on the brake vacuum booster, which would help distinguish which brake system (JB3 = "CH" vs JB5 = "FD") that you have.

Bottom line, though, is we build very very few JB3s. If you simply guessed JB5 you would likely be right.

K

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

front brake hoses!!!!!!!

Yes!
If it's pulling to the left,... the right hose is collapsed.
Change them both.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes!
If it's pulling to the left,... the right hose is collapsed.
Change them both.

I got underneath and squeezed both the lines and they both seem fine i believe that the caliper itself is bad. my rpo says j50 would that be the same as jb5?

[JCampbell]

Good God! Park the damn truck until you fix it before you kill someone.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by JCampbell

Good God! Park the damn truck until you fix it before you kill someone.

Wow man wtf is your problem? Im asking questions about my breaks. For all you know the truck is parked.

[Zebb]

Originally Posted by cmyc5575

I got underneath and squeezed both the lines and they both seem fine

That won't tell you if it is good or not.

It will only take a few minutes more to change the hoses. You won't be happy if you still have the same problem after you have cheaped out on $20.00 worth of hoses. When hoses fail it is usually the inner part that you cannot see. Brake pressure pushes the fluid into the caliper then it can't return because the inner part of the hose is collapsed. A good mechanic would change it along with a caliper just to ensure the vehicle is fixed right and won't come back or worse hurt somebody.