Ol John Lee gets his rear cylinders reamed and rebuilt

[Sharps40]

Thought we'd do all four wheel cylinders on this job but....as ya can see on the front breaks, pretty good shape and a broken off bleeder screw so we'll leave it alone till its time to replumb this 64 SBSS to dual drum/drum master.





So off to the rear breaks for a wheel cylinder repair or two, but first, tie up the break pedal.



Right rear was leaking a bit....just enough over the last few thousand miles to see the pedal slowely go down. The warning was checking the master and finding only enough juice to bairly cover the ports...not a drop on the outside of the backing plates to indicate a problem.





After knockin off all the goo and grit...



Pretty nasty under the cups too...wonder where all that comes from?

[Sharps40]

ASE Master Certified Parts Washer hard at work again....



PB blaster and a Big Wrench to pull the anchor bolt. Time for a clean up on removal. Not strictly necessary but provides more work space later, ye'll see.



Pistons and cups are retained by ears on the backing plates, loosen the cylinder and move it slightly outboard to make room to drive out the pistons and hone the cylinder.



Cylinder bore is about what I expected. Pistons are Okay but really, I think I'll break down at the replumb and just put on all new cylinders. For now...hone it out.



Dosn't take much....a bit of break fluid, 240g hone and moderate RPM. Just a light cut to clean up the cylinders...can't take all the pits out but they ain't deep enough to cause too much trouble anyway...we'll see, if it don't leak then I ain't a liar, I'm a prophet.



Its a four handed job holding in two pistons and cups and a spring while keeping the caps in place long enough to slide it back tween the ears and get the screws into the cylinder thru the backing plate...easier to type than to actually do...

Oh yeah, we swarfed out the bleed hole and the inlet hole with pipe cleaners before reassembly.

[Sharps40]

Anchor bolt back in place, threads greased and snugged back up, super snug.



Starting the reassembly, long shoe to the rear, eclip the Ebrake lever to the shoe. Of all the parts in the hardware kit I bought, only the Eclip and the shoe holddown springs are a fit. All the rest of the springs are too long, too short, too fat, too skinny, not enough coils, etc. So, we reused all the old springs.



Everything in position and a final squeeze to compress the pistons and position all the parts.



From here we lather, rinse and repeat for the other side. We blead each cylinder 5 times to make sure its clear and to push new fluid down into the lines. Pretty much went thru a pint of break fluid to sorta flush and refill the lines as we go. After that, adjusted the breaks, took a ride with lotsa hard stops and the pedal went down about 2/3. From there, we adjusted the shoes again, plenty of clearance now everything is in place and moving back and forth like its supposed to and so, pulling up the shoes again brought the pedal up solid. I can feel the breaks come in quick and maintain about 2/3 pedal height on a hard stop during the second test ride. Next test ride is tomorrow, off the the Game Lands to hunt again...leak free and confident this'll hold for as long as needed till the replumb happens.

Crawled up front and adjusted the Ebrake a bit tighter and thats that, time for Bourbon and Coke and a Bon Fire.

[61_FL_Apache]

Looks great!!

[Sharps40]

Thanks. Just a hold over for now. Looks like cylinders are in the future, rebuilding these rear two is prolly just to buy some time. Looked over the steel lines running to the rear and they need to go...so prolly do the job right over the holidays and maybe get that front suspension on there at the same time. Hard to work it all in on a daily driver.

[niterider65]

looking good like the idea of an bon fire and bourbon& coke
keep up the good work .

[ChiefRocka]

Extra torque can only be had by using GENUINE CRAFTSMAN TOOLS !!



Nice Job !

[padresag]

so how did you bleed the brakes with a broken front bleeder?
ron

[Sharps40]

No need to bleed the front. So blead only the 2 rear cylinders we opened.
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[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Extra torque can only be had by using GENUINE CRAFTSMAN TOOLS !!



Nice Job !

I have an eclectic mix of tools in there from years of occasional wrenching. Craftsman, Kobolt, Snap On, KD, Stanly and even some marked India!.

My favorites are the 6 point craftsman sockets for best grab on them old bolt heads that have rusted to the point a 12 point will only slip.

As for torqueing, I figure my ageing chunkieness and a wrench on wrench combo is pretty close. It took 180 lbs of pork on the downstroke to break the bond and I put that and a bounce or two back into the install....shade tree torque wrench?

[Sharps40]

Just updateing. Driving it yesterday and a bunch today to and from the hunting fields I found out the following....

1. A copperhead slithering under the hunting chair is a wide awake moment or three.

2. Tonights deer stayed in the heavy cover buttin heads but not comeing out for a shot.

3. Ol John Lees brakes work fine and no leaks....in fact, I think we've temporarily run out of leaks to fix so, more driving and hunting and less wrenching for a bit.

Its all good. Ruined my hunting chair though....kinda sucked up a nylaplug when I reached for the thermos and found the snake. Had to get a screwdriver outta the pack to pry the chair outta my bunghole. I'll recover but the chair seems ta have a perminant bunghole shaped pimple in the middle, might have to go to Wally World and get a new favorite hunting chair.

[MikeS.]

Ohh yeah pucker factor x300.

So did the snake live?
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[Sharps40]

Yep.. Snake minded his own business and went to his hole w/o gettin shot by a 3006. I think the deer were on the other side of the thick briars watchen...they put the snake up to it just to see if I'd jump around and scream like a girl. I showed em! Manly man...right up to where I was pryin the chair outta my backside!