Look what the F0&D dragged home

[americanmusc1e]

I almost went and got it in my 92 C1500 V6/5spd, but that 400hp computer on wheels (2012 F350 diesel) is good for something...

I'm very proud of it!! A 69 K20.. with an unknown Cab on it.

Eaton HO52 in the rear
Dana 44 in the front
SM465
Rockwell T221 transfer case
Still don't know the gear ratio... This was orignally a L6 truck so I'm guessing 4.56s..

I'm planning to morph it with my current 70 C10 and 383 to make one heck of a vehicle





The truck was originally a flatbed


It came with a fairly nice bench seat


I think I'm gonna need to find a V8 4x4 crossmember to replace this.



I like the cab marker lights and I'm planning on keeping them



anybody ever heard of this stuff?? it seemed to actually work. at least on the top half of the cab it has zero rust.

[americanmusc1e]

Basically I bought all of that for $500 mainly for the frame, but the cab is in better shape than mine. The only bad areas are the front floor braces and the rockers. I really like the roof lights and I think I'm going to uset this cab and try to sell my old cab.

as it sits now.


The transfercase has a rear-facing PTO


The rockers need replacing


I totally misjudged the transfer case when i bought it. I thought it was a NP, and i missed this huge tag



my 70 C10 that's supplying the rest of the truck.

[bilfman]

Cant wait to see how the build progresses.

[americanmusc1e]

From what the PO told me and what I've seen when we unloaded it, I'm pretty sure this thing has a locker in the rear end. And from the internet research I did that locker may be a Detroit Locker...


I've got both fingers crossed that when I pull the differential covers tomorrow that I find 4.10 gears and not 4.56s or lower. I want to run about a 35" tire and 4.10s would be the perfect gear for my torquey 383 and 35s.

If i find 4.56s I'm gonna need to find a 37" or bigger tire or replace the HO52 with a 14BFF.

If I find 5.13s there will be alot of cursing and I'll be looking for a different rear..

[1969K10]

I remember those "Ziebart" stickers on cars around here growing up. Came and went. Some swore by it, others at it.

[MTCK]

My dad's 83 had the ziebart treatment done. Pretty sure it was just undercoating. Cool truck!
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[americanmusc1e]

well I pulled the diff cover on the Eaton. 4.57 gears and no locker


Since it doesn't have a locker I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. This is a budget build and I was planning on leaving the 4.57 rear if it had a locker, but now I'm not sure. I may just look for a different rear.

[flyingtim01]

Nice find! When the time comes (I'm pretending that there is still some life left in my cab) to replace my cab, I'm going to look for one with marker lights as well. Love that look.

I'm firmly in the camp of hanging onto the HO52, myself, rather than swapping it out for anything, especially if you're on a budget. I guess you can break anything, but it should be able to handle everything that your 383 can throw at it with no modifications. There was a time when those rears were very plentiful on the road, so it stands to reason that now, they're quite plentiful in junkyards. And a bunch of them will have the no-spin. Because no one really knows what they're all about, you can usually grab a center for nothing or next to it. I never need a real excuse to go poke around a junkyard, but if you find one with older trucks, you can find these axles under a wide array of years of GM's. The older ones and bigger trucks will probably have the 5.13s, smaller trucks are more likely to have the taller gears. Start popping covers and take a look. Although, if you really want 4.10's and a locker, it may be difficult to find both in the same rear. As someone with a wheezy small block with low comp truck heads and 4.56's though, it sure breaks them loose with ease...

[argonaut]

This looks like a sweet project! I love it.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by flyingtim01

I'm firmly in the camp of hanging onto the HO52, myself, rather than swapping it out for anything, especially if you're on a budget. I guess you can break anything, but it should be able to handle everything that your 383 can throw at it with no modifications. There was a time when those rears were very plentiful on the road, so it stands to reason that now, they're quite plentiful in junkyards. And a bunch of them will have the no-spin. Because no one really knows what they're all about, you can usually grab a center for nothing or next to it. I never need a real excuse to go poke around a junkyard, but if you find one with older trucks, you can find these axles under a wide array of years of GM's. The older ones and bigger trucks will probably have the 5.13s, smaller trucks are more likely to have the taller gears. Start popping covers and take a look. Although, if you really want 4.10's and a locker, it may be difficult to find both in the same rear. As someone with a wheezy small block with low comp truck heads and 4.56's though, it sure breaks them loose with ease...

Thanks for the reply. I was bummed at first, but while I was working on the frame outside I did some soul-searching and decided what was important to me. I have a daily driver so I'm not too concerned about gas mileage and whatnot. I decided that i'd rather have this project showcase the original parts of the 60's rather than go with a more modern pieced together serious wheeling drivetrain. I can add a 14BFF detroit locker to my stock eaton later if I want to. Right now just gonna be stock driveline with probably a 6" lift and 35" or 37" tires. I'd like to keep the visible parts period-correct if possible. That means dumping my electric fan setup and staying with drum brakes (maybe on the drum brakes...) and thats fine with me.

[americanmusc1e]

While I'm on the subject I might add...

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but I get tired of seeing newer engines transmissions and such swapped into older trucks. Even if the older stuff isn't as great it just ruins the look and simplicity of a classic vehicle.

And before I get accused of being a backwoods hillbilly who doesn't understand technology. Let me add that I'm 21, Attending College for a degree in computer science, and I work as a computer repair technician. As well as working on plenty of Laptops and Desktops, I also do repairs on iPods (ipod touch), iPhones, and iPads (the iPads really suck btw!!!) So Neither the technology or complexity of modern stuff bothers me. I just prefer old skool things to play with.

End of rant... sorrry guys..

[argonaut]

I totally hear you on the old vs new thing man!

When I started building my 66 K20 I thought the same as you. But along the way I've run into difficulty with certain parts availability, etc for certain things, so I've strategically compromised in some areas with slightly newer parts. But the good thing is that in your case, in general, the 67-72 era of trucks is way better supported than the older. Although your transfer case and trans and axle are similar to the earlier stuff than the later.
Regardless, each project is different and personally I think you've got a good plan and an awesome foundation that you are starting with. I can't wait to see the two trucks come together. I'm staying tuned!

I also dig the cab marker lights! I stole a set of those off of my 71 parts truck

[flyingtim01]

I'm with you on that muscle...I prefer to keep it old school. I would have bought a new truck if I wanted something that acted like a new truck. An interesting tidbit I found about that rearend in particular: when you go to find brake parts, you won't be able to find drums, unless you luck out and find some NOS parts somewhere, and you'll pay through the nose for them. Even the shoes are getting harder to find. What you can do, however, is swap out the OE brakes for the brakes from a 14b. Backing plates and all, it will all swap over, and you'll still have drums in the rear that you'll actually be able to find brake parts for. Just an FYI.

And I completely forgot that yes you can add a detroit from a 14b to the eaton. Not to mention the fact that the eatons are becoming fairly coveted by the crowd that knows what they are. They have much better ground clearance than the 14b's.

There is a pretty current thread around here somewhere where a board member inquired about rebuilding the front axle on his '69. Someone suggested he dump the whole thing to get rid of the closed knuckles, find a later model axle with discs and open knuckles, and while you're at it, it's a good time to convert to PS and on and on and on...I understand the desire to improve things and definitely not faulting those suggestions, it makes sense if this will be your daily driver and you want it to stop/steer easier. But I think it sometimes gets lost that having an old truck is just so damn cool...stop trying to turn it into a new truck!

[76k10]

I also agree with the new vs. old argument. However, it only makes sense to a point. IMO, if you have problems with a closed knuckle 44 and it's not hard for you find an open knuckle disc brake 44 to put in its place, it just doesn't make good sense to use the older (worse) axle.

[americanmusc1e]

Well I will end up using some non-stock parts I'm sure. For one the bellhousing and clutch setup i have is a hydraulic unit out of an 89 pickup. Me spending money to find original linkage setup would be pointless.

And thanks for the tip on the 14b drums.

Right now I'm working on cleaning up the frame and about to order the Rear braces, inner rockers and one cab corner (already have the outer rockers and the two front braces I bought for my other cab). I also need to pull the transmission and t-case and go through them. I was going to use the aluminum top off of my late-model SM465, but honestly the older shifter is in better shape and has less slop. while I have the cab off I will thoroughly check out the diffs.

Maybe by the time I have finished the cab and the frame I will have saved up enough money for a lift kit and tires.

the bed and the front fenders need some going through as well. I will have plenty of body work to keep me busy. But unfortunately its back to work for me until Sunday. I'm on this strange schedule which is kinda nice. I work 4 ten-hour days and then I'm off Sunday, Monday and Tuesday except for my night college classes.

the H052


The ONLY rust not on the floorboards


left cab corner


same cab corner inside


passenger side floorboard above the front brace. I think this is just getting a sheet metal patch welded in since its relatively flat

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by flyingtim01

An interesting tidbit I found about that rearend in particular: when you go to find brake parts, you won't be able to find drums, unless you luck out and find some NOS parts somewhere, and you'll pay through the nose for them. Even the shoes are getting harder to find.

My local NAPA stocks shoes for my HO52..... but for all I know, I may have bought the last set they had.

[americanmusc1e]

Will a 6" lift fit 37" tires such as this?? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/37x...&t_pn=SSTI-825

Or would I need more lift?? what is considered the general max for a 6" lift??

[argonaut]

Too bad you're not in so cal. I just took the drum brakes off of my 14bff and they're just sitting here collecting rust.

[americanmusc1e]

Considering the price and availability of a V8 4x4 crossmember I may just try to make my own. I have an extra set of 2wd motor stands and I have my dad's 72 K20 suburban to look at. Does anybody know if the 2wd and 4x4 motor stands are the same??

I am about to order a cab corner and a set of rear braces though.

[Dale99]

2 and 4wd motor stands are completely different, I just made that mistake.

I was pointed to a diy4x brand cross member. Its newer design, but it allows for removal of part of it so you can drop the oil pan if needed. Fairly costly to, but if your good at fabbing, you can look at it and make your own!

:edit: however on the motor stands, if your making your own cross member, you can make the 2wd stands work.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by Dale99

2 and 4wd motor stands are completely different, I just made that mistake.

I was pointed to a diy4x brand cross member. Its newer design, but it allows for removal of part of it so you can drop the oil pan if needed. Fairly costly to, but if your good at fabbing, you can look at it and make your own!

:edit: however on the motor stands, if your making your own cross member, you can make the 2wd stands work.

I like that crossmember, but I have quite a bit of other things that i need that money for. And that's exactly what I was thinking.. Building a crossmember to utilize the 2wd v8 stands. It makes sense for me to stay with the old-style motor mounts since I already have a good set of poly mounts. One is brand new still. (I only use/need a poly mount on the drivers side, even with my 383)

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Sweet score I like the cab lights as well there neat! Cool looking truck sounds like a fun project. Good luck on it all keep up the good work

[americanmusc1e]

I've been doing some research on this rear end. Its in a K20, but it has the pinion load-bolt or whatever you want to call it.. Does that mean its a H072?? or did the H052 have the load-bolt as well??

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

Its in a K20, but it has the pinion load-bolt or whatever you want to call it.. Does that mean its a H072?? or did the H052 have the load-bolt as well??

Some HO52s had the load bolt... some did not. But all HO 72s had it.

[americanmusc1e]

well, some slow progress today.. I spent most of the day tearing apart the passenger side rocker. I found out that I need to order more sheetmetal.

easy way to work on the rockers lol


this is much worse than I expected..


drivers side front brace..


with the slip-on brace sorta fitted..


found some bondo on the passenger side cab corner. I guess I'll be ordering that too..


floorpan around the gas pedal mount..


the worst spot for sure... rear right cab corner..


also got a little done on the frame..


Purely for my encouragement...