Do I have to remove the bellhousing

[melhilburn]

I need to replace the clutch on my 292 - Is it possible to replace the clutch without removing the bellhousing - just curious???

[62-One-Ton]

No. You have to remove it to be able to remove the pressure plate. The clutch disc is under the pressure plate. To make it a little easier I would reccomend putting a jack with a block of wood on it under the oil pan before you start removing the transmission.
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[padresag]

you do not have to remove the bell housing to remove the clutch or pressure plate. you remove the tin cover on the bottom and that is where it comes out of. you do not have to put any blocks of wood under the oil pan
ron

[62-One-Ton]

Depending on what bell housing it is, it may not have a removable cover.
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[TopFuel1966]

I'm gonna take the middle road here. It's not absolutely necessary to remove a 2-piece bellhousing to change out the clutch but it would make the job a lot easier for the average shade tree mechanic to do so. A good line mechanic probably would not take the bellhousing off but those guys always have a few tricks up their sleeve to make the job fast AND easy.

[jocko]

Considering the bell housing with the dog ear mounting points (as these trucks have) CAN be a pain to get in/out (nothin major, but it is more work) - I'd give it a shot without removing the bell. You must, of course, remove the trans, but will assume that is a given.
A couple of the "tricks" -
- A nice tool to have is one of the flywheel rotation tools - that helps expose the pressure plate to flywheel mounting bolts - a nice big screwdriver can do the job, but the rotation tool is slick, cheap, and helps a good deal. It is equally, if not more, useful when reinstalling and trying to torque the pressure plate bolts.
- If you are replacing the flywheel and/or the pilot bushing - then go ahead and remove the bell, life will be easier.
- A clutch disk alignment tool is worth having - and they usually come in the clutch/pressure plate kit. A sawed off, appropriately sized broom handle will work, but why mess with that? Like I did... Get the alignment too. Also available at Oreily's and most parts stores for a few bucks in the "Help" section of the store.
- make sure to use NEW prressure plate bolts.
- Two BIG cautions if you remove the bell:
1 - carefully support the engine oil pan - I used a big wide flat piece of wood - but the edge of it was under the drain plug and it still dented the pan ubder its own weight causing a drain plug leak. Ugh. So, just be careful, that's all.
2 - Don't let it tilt "back" too much - the distributor can contact the firewall and crack, the cap at a minimum, the body on a bad day.
These are reasons I lean toward leaving the bell in if possible, avoids all the pitfalls of removing it and having to support the engine. but if changing the flywheel or pilot bushing, I tend to go ahead and go to the trouble of removing the bell.

Good luck!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 62-One-Ton

Depending on what bell housing it is, it may not have a removable cover.
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perhaps if you were a little more familiar with this vintage of truck you would realize what they used for a bell-housing.
ron

[padresag]

Originally Posted by jocko

Considering the bell housing with the dog ear mounting points (as these trucks have) CAN be a pain to get in/out (nothin major, but it is more work) - I'd give it a shot without removing the bell. You must, of course, remove the trans, but will assume that is a given.
A couple of the "tricks" -
- A nice tool to have is one of the flywheel rotation tools - that helps expose the pressure plate to flywheel mounting bolts - a nice big screwdriver can do the job, but the rotation tool is slick, cheap, and helps a good deal. It is equally, if not more, useful when reinstalling and trying to torque the pressure plate bolts.
- If you are replacing the flywheel and/or the pilot bushing - then go ahead and remove the bell, life will be easier.
- A clutch disk alignment tool is worth having - and they usually come in the clutch/pressure plate kit. A sawed off, appropriately sized broom handle will work, but why mess with that? Like I did... Get the alignment too. Also available at Oreily's and most parts stores for a few bucks in the "Help" section of the store.
- make sure to use NEW prressure plate bolts.
- Two BIG cautions if you remove the bell:
1 - carefully support the engine oil pan - I used a big wide flat piece of wood - but the edge of it was under the drain plug and it still dented the pan ubder its own weight causing a drain plug leak. Ugh. So, just be careful, that's all.
2 - Don't let it tilt "back" too much - the distributor can contact the firewall and crack, the cap at a minimum, the body on a bad day.
These are reasons I lean toward leaving the bell in if possible, avoids all the pitfalls of removing it and having to support the engine. but if changing the flywheel or pilot bushing, I tend to go ahead and go to the trouble of removing the bell.

Good luck!

there is no reason what so ever to have to remove the bell housing to remove the clutch , flywheel or pilot bushing.
now if you are removing an a/t from behind a small block in these vehicles it is advisable to unfasten the distr cap and lift it up out of the way and it doesn't get broken when you drop the rear end of the eng
ron

[geezer#99]

If an old guy like me with a bad back and bifocals can swap in a new pressure plate and disc without removing the bell then I'm sure some of you young bucks can!
Some tips!
Pressure plate and disc won't come out or back in togethor.Use a coat hanger to hold the pressure plate to the back so the disc slides out first. Put the new PP back in first held up by the hanger. Slide the disc inside the PP and put your alignment tool into the disc and slide the end into the pilot bushing. Bolt her together.

[62-One-Ton]

Ron
Do you really think every 50 something year old truck is going to have a bell housing with a removable tin cover? Maybe if you were more open minded to the fact that every truck may not have the original bell housing. In fact the OP never stated what bell housing he has or even what vehicle his 292 is in... Yes the assumption can be made that it is in a 60-66 c-series truck but thats it. Im not in any way saying your wrong but the way you came in saying that I am incorrect is rather rude. Both of us are correct for certain applications. And a serious question if doing a trans r+r in your driveway, why would you pull the dist cap instead of putting a block or a jack with a block under the pan? Seems the block or block and jack method would be faster...

Regards, Mike.
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[padresag]

Originally Posted by 62-One-Ton

Ron
Do you really think every 50 something year old truck is going to have a bell housing with a removable tin cover? Maybe if you were more open minded to the fact that every truck may not have the original bell housing. In fact the OP never stated what bell housing he has or even what vehicle his 292 is in... Yes the assumption can be made that it is in a 60-66 c-series truck but thats it. Im not in any way saying your wrong but the way you came in saying that I am incorrect is rather rude. Both of us are correct for certain applications. And a serious question if doing a trans r+r in your driveway, why would you pull the dist cap instead of putting a block or a jack with a block under the pan? Seems the block or block and jack method would be faster...

Regards, Mike.
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if you are taking out an a/t that crossmember is gone and the trans is rear mounted. once that rear trans c/member is dropped. you unhook the distr cap and you drop the trans a bit, then with a 9/16 impact flex(doesn't drop that much. a 24" ext and a ratchet you just just extract those bolts out from around the housing . and if you are a good man you can re and re in 20 min. did lots of them working off a creeper in the mid 60's, which wouldn't be that much different from one's driveway.

the other thing is that I knew what he had in there from another thread, so I wasn't supposing anything. I was referring to what he had.
you were the one who was supposing. if he did have the later b/housing then it wouldn't have been mounted at the bellhousing but at the rear of the trans
ron

[62-One-Ton]

Not quite sure why a/t's and small blocks are being referenced here??? He's clearly changing a clutch for a manual transmission with a 292. So not sure why removing the dist cap is referenced here. Again Im not saying your wrong but in this thread it is irrelevant.

To the OP do it what ever way you feel more comfotable. There have been several ways posted here on how it can be done.

Regards, Mike.
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[padresag]

Originally Posted by 62-One-Ton

Not quite sure why a/t's and small blocks are being referenced here??? He's clearly changing a clutch for a manual transmission with a 292. So not sure why removing the dist cap is referenced here. Again Im not saying your wrong but in this thread it is irrelevant.

To the OP do it what ever way you feel more comfotable. There have been several ways posted here on how it can be done.

Regards, Mike.
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if you take the time to read you might have seen that I was referring to Jocko's statement and he talked about the distr cap and then you had to put your 2 bit's worth in because you didn't read it all. that was quoted to him that reply
ron

[62-One-Ton]

Originally Posted by padresag

there is no reason what so ever to have to remove the bell housing to remove the clutch , flywheel or pilot bushing.
now if you are removing an a/t from behind a small block in these vehicles it is advisable to unfasten the distr cap and lift it up out of the way and it doesn't get broken when you drop the rear end of the eng
ron

Pretty sure you brought up a/t's all on your own...
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[melhilburn]

Ok, here is what I have - It looks to me like I can remove the lower portion of the bellhousing which will give my access to the PP / clutch - Since the bellhousing is a "dog ear" type (basically rear motor / transmission mounts) - I would rather leave it in place - Any tricks for getting the Pilot bearing out - This sounds like my biggest challenge

[62-One-Ton]

You can get a puller to remove the bearing. (slide hammer style) or you can use a dowel and pack the hole with grease put the dowel in the hole (tight fit) and tap on the other end with a hammer. It will slowly push the bearing out. But I would get the puller. I am sure there will be other options brought up.
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