6 cyl hates the cold

[K98AL]

My 235 has Fenton headers, stock manifold. (no heat riser now)
It just got cold here in Oklahoma - and my 235 falls on its face at stop signs.
Any good fix for this?

[geezer#99]

You need a heat plate.
http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog...513&id=1222049

[T2vigil]

The heat plate is the only way to go if you want it to run in the cold.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Not to hijack, but how does this heat plate work exactly?

[geezer#99]

Heat plate is spliced into the heater hoses. THe hot water passes thru the plate which is bolted to the intake. The intake is heated that way. You need the heat to keep the fuel vapour that leaves the carb in a gaseous state. If the fuel vapour gets cold then the fuel part of the vapour reverts to a liquid. The fuel puddles in the intake and the remaining vapour that gets to the cylinder is too lean (not much fuel, mostly just air) and it won't burn. Makes your motor cough and sputter. Backfires thru the carb.
IN a normal set up the intake and exhaust on a six are bolted togethor with a spring loaded flapper valve that deflects the exhaust heat up towards the intake to keep it warm. On a V8 there's a heat riser valve on one exhaust manifold that stays closed to divert the exhaust from that side and under the intake to warm up the intake.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Thanks Geezer. That's exactly what I was looking for.

[K98AL]

Thank you!!!!

[KVB]

Thanks, very helpful.

[K98AL]

I talked with Tom Langdon - he's shipping a heat plate and an outlet that goes under the thermostat housing. The theromostat housing outlet should make it easier to route hoses to/from the heat plate.
I'll keep you posted on progress.

[K98AL]

Got the manifold plate and spacer that goes behind thermostat housing. (this makes plumbing much easier and neater)

Mocked every thing up - had to make a "T" to go in heater hose line, installed the whole setup and had antifreeze pouring out of my plate/manifold gasket.

Remounted plate with a THICK cork/rubber gasket and some MegaBlack gasket sealer, torque the crap out of it (not recommended) - and presto - no leaks!

Unit works great I can already tell a difference, but temps around here aren't cold yet. It's supposed to get down in the 30s Sunday, so that'll be a good test.

Parts all fit as they should, and the folks at Langdon's (including the owner) were VERY helpful!

[K98AL]

BTW - the entire deal, hose, bolts, plate, thermostat spacer altogether cost under 100 bucks.

[MikeS.]

From geezer99 above;

"On a V8 there's a heat riser valve on one exhaust manifold that stays closed to divert the exhaust from that side and under the intake to warm up the intake."

On my 1963 283 there are 2 openings, 1 on each side of the intake manifold that allows warm/hot air into the manifold area. Both of these were plugged shut with a carbon crud. I'm in the process of cleaning them out.
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[geezer#99]

And your point is??

[MikeS.]

That this thread taught me something that when I had an issue with mine I was able to apply. Before reading the info you posted I wouldn't have had a clue of what or why.
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[K98AL]

Got down to 14 freezing #$^$ degrees this morning. HUGE difference in performance with the heat plate. And now it's supposed to warm up for the next 5 days....I love Oklahoma.