64 short bed transmission ?

[otiger50]

I'm 19 and I have pulled and rebuilt the engines from a couple of early 2000's Chrysler cars and I am a full time paintless dent repair technician, but other than that I am inexperienced in every area. Therefore, I am seeking help and advice on my new project pickup.
I just recently bought a 64 shortbed. It has a small block but I am unsure of the exact cubic inch. It also has a 3 speed in the floor. The motor misses sometimes when you get on it, and the transmission won't stay in gear.
I would like to pull the motor and trans and do an overhaul to the engine and possibly do some mild tuning such as a cam, a different carb (a 600 cfm edelbrock is what I have in mind,) headers, and possibly an MSD ignition. For the transmission, I would like to scrap the 3 speed and bolt on a T56 6 speed.
I would just like some general input and advice before I start in on the project so that I don't get in over my head.
my MAIN CONCERN is putting in a different transmission

[MikeS.]

Hey man welcome, the motor is probably a 283. Look at the edelbrock performer manifold to go with the carb. Are you thinking a 1406 carb with the elec. choke?

We need some pics of the truck too
Posted via Mobile Device

[kieth]

Originally Posted by otiger50

I'm 19 and I have pulled and rebuilt the engines from a couple of early 2000's Chrysler cars and I am a full time paintless dent repair technician, but other than that I am inexperienced in every area. Therefore, I am seeking help and advice on my new project pickup.
I just recently bought a 64 shortbed. It has a small block but I am unsure of the exact cubic inch. It also has a 3 speed in the floor. The motor misses sometimes when you get on it, and the transmission won't stay in gear.
I would like to pull the motor and trans and do an overhaul to the engine and possibly do some mild tuning such as a cam, a different carb (a 600 cfm edelbrock is what I have in mind,) headers, and possibly an MSD ignition. For the transmission, I would like to scrap the 3 speed and bolt on a T56 6 speed.
I would just like some general input and advice before I start in on the project so that I don't get in over my head.
my MAIN CONCERN is putting in a different transmission

Get me some more information on your truck:

rear axle ratio:

tire size: (height from ground to top of rear tire)

Your email address:

I will then send you a excell spreadsheet on how your truck performs now and how it will perform after you make the changes to it. i.e. transmission, tire size, etc......Kieth

[otiger50]

how do i know what my rear axle gear ratio is?

[Clyde65]

may be a small tag on one of the bolts on the rear cover. other than that, you jack up the truck,mark and turn the DS wheel and watch how many times the pinion goes around.

[otiger50]

tire height 28"

[otiger50]

for every 10 turns with the driveshaft the tire would turn roughly 5.3 times

[otiger50]

email otiger50@yahoo.com
i rarely check it so let me know on here if u send spreadsheet

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by otiger50

how do i know what my rear axle gear ratio is?

First I see you just joined This December, so welcome to the forum!

Next, chock front wheels; jack up one rear wheel; place a jack stand securely underneath frame and/or axle; put a piece of masking tape around the driveshaft overlapping ends; mark a spot(I like to make about a 1/2-inch long, thin pencil line.) easily seen on the tape with a pen/pencil; put a short piece of masking tape on outer edge of the tire that is jacked up; put a small dot/line that runs toward center of wheel on the tape w/pencil or pen that is easily seen; lay a piece of wood with a sharpened piece of coat hanger wire, held firmly by wood, & pointing directly at the marked tape on driveshaft.(Easy to do if you pre-drill a hole in wood slightly smaller than wire so it will be a 'press-fit' when wire is inserted into hole.); do the same with second block, but aimed directly at mark on the tire-tape-mark.

Have someone help by watching and counting the turns made by driveshaft, including the partial turn(proportion of a total turn) it makes on its last "attempt". You turn the jacked-up wheel exactly 2 turns, finishing with the dot/mark lined back up with the pointer. The turns made by the dr-shaft will be your ratio.

For example if it turned precisely 3 and 1/2 times, that would be a 3.50:1. (*NOTE: you probably will NEVER end with an even whole number of turns, but rather a fraction on the last start of a turn.*). If it turned approximately 3 and 3/4 revs, that represents a 3.73:1. If it turned a tad over 3 turns, a 3.08:1. If it turned 4 turns plus a tad, it is a 4.11:1. If approx. 3 and 1/3 it represents a 3.36:1. If approx. 3 and 1/2 turns, it represents like a 3.55:1. If approx. 4 and 1/2 turns, a 4.56:1; If approx. 5 plus a little bit over, it would be a 5.13:1, etc. The 4.56 and the 5.13 are unlikely! There probably are other possibilities I have missed, but I think I've covered most of the likely ones.

To count the partial turns of the d-shaft, imagine a clock-face: At 15 minutes after, it's 1/4; at 45 minutes after, it is 3/4; etc. If using this clock-face, it'd be easier to BEGIN with d-shaft-mark exactly at the top to represent 12 o'clock! Remember, your tool is disposable; you can make the wire longer and bend it over and downward relative to d-shaft such that it points directly at the mark--just be sure it is held STILL while it is 'performing' its measurements!

Another way to count is to pre-mark with a short pencil-line at each quarter-turn on the tape surrounding the d-shaft. [If a perfectionist, you can measure the circumference of that tape and divide it by 4 and mark each quarter EXACTLY.] You'll end up at a point easily estimated by its proximity to the closest quarter-turn line.

Note: your counted turns will pretty much ALWAYS end with a fraction!

Enjoy the exercise. Be careful. Use your knowledge of known possible ratios to begin with and as you proceed.
HTH,
sam

[luvbowties]

By the way, NICE RIDE!!!
sam

[otiger50]

thanks sam!
i turned my drive shaft 10 times and my wheel turned about 5 and 1/3 times and that gives me the ratio of 1.88:1, correct?

[otiger50]

also, where are the numbers on the engine located? do i need to remove the alternator on the right side?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by otiger50

thanks sam!
i turned my drive shaft 10 times and my wheel turned about 5 and 1/3 times and that gives me the ratio of 1.88:1, correct?

Your procedure works, but since you are going thru the spider gears, a 2-to-1 ratio itself, you need to just multiply your 1.88 (actually 1.876) by 2 and get 3.75-3.76. Now, that is approximate, but very close to....3.73, which is your true ratio:3.73:1.
Glad you got it...congrats!
sam

[otiger50]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Your procedure works, but since you are going thru the spider gears, a 2-to-1 ratio itself, you need to just multiply your 1.88 (actually 1.876) by 2 and get 3.75-3.76. Now, that is approximate, but very close to....3.73, which is your true ratio:3.73:1.
Glad you got it...congrats!
sam

Thanks sam, you've been a big help!
I would like to have this pickup be at a good balance of reliability and power.
I am excited to dig into this pickup feel confident that I can tackle this project. However, as I stated before, I am slightly inexperienced.
Taking into consideration that this is going to be done in my garage without a lift and my lack of experience, what would be your suggestion as far as what to do to make this pickup as far as the transmission and the rear end?

[63burban4x4]

Nice truck!
that motor doesn't really look like a 283, from that picture, at the very least it has a later intake manifold, and valve covers. The original 283 (or even a 327, for that matter) intake would have the oil filler spout in the front of the manifold, not in the valve cover, and also would not have the PCV valve in the valve cover, either, they don't start PCV until 68, (maybe 67 in Calif, IIRC) It also has HEI from the looks, not a stock 283 distributor. Not impossible to find these retrofitted on a 283, but more likely it's going to be a 307, 350, something like that. Other tipoffs: can't see yours, but 283 heads will not have any bolt holes straight in the front. Stock 283 ramhorn exhaust manifolds would have a bracket built into the front of the driver's side to mount the alternator, again, can't tell for sure from that pic, but it looks like yours has the alt mounted on the pass side. Also those lifting hooks would not be original to a 283. There's a flat pad just in front of the pass side head, it's actually the top of the block and extends out beyond the head. clean it off, and there should be a stamped set of numbers and letters. Post it here and someone can help you identify the motor, or you can do a search and find those numbers yourself.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by otiger50

thanks sam!
i turned my drive shaft 10 times and my wheel turned about 5 and 1/3 times and that gives me the ratio of 1.88:1, correct?

tiger, I sent you the spread sheet for your truck, sounds like 3:73 is the rear ratio you have so look down until you see 3:73 then after you figure out the engine we can make sure we do not end up with a truck that falls on its face or one that goes down the slab at way too high a rpm. Kieth

I included my phone number so you can call if you have questions. Kieth

[63burban4x4]

geez, man, I just reread my post about identifying your motor, and realized I gave you some wrong info, re: the PCV. I said "would not have the PCV valve in the valve cover, either, they don't start PCV until 68, (maybe 67 in Calif, IIRC)" that's not correct, 68 is when they started with the air pump smog control, but they did have the PCV system earlier....I think around 63. However, I'm still pretty sure they didn't run it into the valve cover before about 68. If I've got that wrong, someone will correct me. sorry for the "senior moment"!

[otiger50]

ok guys, i'm confident that i can pull the motor and trans and overhaul this small block and tinker with the engine in order to get it running how i want it to run.
MY MAIN CONCERN is bolting on this T56 and getting it mounted up and all that good stuff with a cherry picker and no welding experience

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by otiger50

I'm 19 and I have pulled and rebuilt the engines from a couple of early 2000's Chrysler cars and I am a full time paintless dent repair technician, but other than that I am inexperienced in every area. Therefore, I am seeking help and advice on my new project pickup.
I just recently bought a 64 shortbed. It has a small block but I am unsure of the exact cubic inch. It also has a 3 speed in the floor. The motor misses sometimes when you get on it, and the transmission won't stay in gear.
I would like to pull the motor and trans and do an overhaul to the engine and possibly do some mild tuning such as a cam, a different carb (a 600 cfm edelbrock is what I have in mind,) headers, and possibly an MSD ignition. For the transmission, I would like to scrap the 3 speed and bolt on a T56 6 speed.
I would just like some general input and advice before I start in on the project so that I don't get in over my head.
my MAIN CONCERN is putting in a different transmission

Why don't you get your hands dirty first by getting your present engine running properly? And, the tranny possibly only needs linkage adjustment to stop jumping out of gear; or possibly an engine mount. All this may be temporary, yet seemingly justified.

A good engine wash to begin with would be a nice start! Next, looks like plug wire going to cyl. #1 has a burned spot, that could be arcing/causing miss, about an inch back from its boot. A full tuneup--new(proper-length) wires, plugs, dist cap., rotor, fuel filter(s), set timing, etc.; oil & filter change, etc.--i.e. general maintenance that looks long overdue may prove that the engine may not need re-building. May be a good idea to find out just what you have before you go trying to improve it! If it proves ok as it is, you don't have to pull engine to install a cam or to replace intake/carb.

Doing the above won't be a waste; most of those parts can be re-used on a newly-done engine!
sam