LWB Conversion.... and Build

[Justonegear]

After searching some and finding a good bit of info on the frame cut I didn't seem to find much on the box work. This is my take on it. If it has been beat to death with coverage in other threads my apologies. Hopefully a few of the ideas will help someone considering the LWB conversion. I used the generally accepted 8 3/4" from the stake holes with 8" off rear and 12" off the front. I don't consider myself a pro or even accomplished at this work. This is my first and last crack at this.

Here's the project. It's time to put it on the Jenny Craig Plan....


After removing bed and marking my cut marks I clamped a piece of 1/4" x 10" x 3' metal to the top so I could use a square to transfer the marks down the side.
I also made marks for reference at rear 32" apart spanning the cut and 36" apart at the front. This will allow you to double check your cuts and adjust if needed. When you bring the ends together the marks should be 24" apart.

By clamping the plate at the top to can move the square out at the top which will allow you follow the contour of the bed.


After marking your cut lines check to be sure the you show 8" at rear and 12" at front. Near the bottom on both sides center punch and drill a 1/8" hole, using a piece of welding rod check to be sure that your lines are correct. If the rod is at right angle your lines are correct, if the rod is not at right angle check and remark the cut lines.


Make your cuts stopping short of top and bottom. I used a grinder with a cut off wheel. Cut as close to the line as you can. After you have asked your helper to hold the end, finish the cuts. Then clean up the cuts with a your grinder. I have found it easier to make several passes over the cut with the cutting wheel it seems to make a cleaner cut. Dress the cuts, may save you a trip to the ER and check. If your a bit over on the lines don't sweat it. You have a 16th of an inch of wiggle room for your gap to weld in.


Clamp end back in place using 2 good solid pieces of steel aprox. 2' long. One on the top and inside bottom. Using body panel clips align panels.


Spot weld between clips and remove. Do not weld at this time. If you weld between the clips the tin will shrink and the clips will be very difficult to remove.


What I did was cut a piece of tin to put behind the seam. Drill several 1/4" holes about 6" apart on each side of the seam. If you drill the hole one size smaller than your finish 1/4" size first, the 1/4" bit will go through and not leave a bur on the back side so your plate will fit snug to the panel. This will allow you to easily plug weld the plate behind the seam. I drilled the lower plug holes in the plate so there were less holes on the outside of the truck.Remove the paint from the center or it will contaminate your weld.

Lace the welds up the side welding and inch, then skipping several inches and welding another inch. This will keep the panel from warping. Keep jumping around until you have completed the seam. The Backer will serve to help you weld the joint. It can be difficult brings to thin pieces of tin together. Then grind off the excess weld.


Flap wheel the seam and your done. The process is the same on the inside.

[RexDodge]

Nice job. Now the fun begins. Be sure to take your time lining your frame up. Re-measure (cross measure for square) after you tack the frame. Then the body work. No one every talks about the shape of these beds. You'll find the there is a transition from the rear piece to the main section of the bed. Same thing in the front but not so severe. Once I got close evercoat slick sand became my best friend. Made those body lines laser straight.
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[Justonegear]

Great advice on checking the bed for square. The hypotenuse measurement was 1 1/4" out. Thanks for the tip.