Most Common Causes 60-66 Electrical Fire

[LostMy65]

I searched and didn't find a dedicated thread for 60-66 trucks as to the most likely location for an electrical fire.

I know the ammeter has been one that has been mentioned, but where are some of the other likely locations?

.
The following is posts from another thread that prompted me to start this thread:

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

If it looks good I would buy it, nothing wrong with old wiring if it isn't corroded.

Originally Posted by MikeS.

I feel just the opposite. Old wiring is OLD and can be dangerous. Look at my gallery, you'll find a pic where one of the wires burned through the insulation and through the electrical tape. I bought an American autowire complete rewire kit off of eBay for about $450 a pretty cheap investment if you ask me.
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Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

I disagree, if there is no bad connections and the connections are good and tight and the wire is not damaged than it is good to go.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Here's what I'm doing...

I tore out all the wiring.
Cleaned up the main wiring and only ran the absolutely necessary items.
I will not hook up any additional items to the original wiring.
I bought one of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSS-15600-10-20/
All additional wiring will be routed through that.

Originally Posted by Raked 64

I installed a Painless kit. It is worth every penny and made for the truck. I wouldn't want to worry about an electrical issue on a truck that nice..

Just my opinion though. I tend to overkill most things.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I agree.
Although I do put a lot of stock in Markb01's opinion. He talks about the numerous heat and cold cycles the wiring has gone through over the last 40 years. He also mentions that certain stock wires for certain items are under sized.
Also, the ammeter wiring has a history of fires.
That's why I went the route I'm going; only the necessary items for the original harness, and new wires and fuse block as I hook new things up.
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Originally Posted by LostMy65

I think we all have to make decisions based off what we can afford do at the time.
Of course we can't afford an electrical fire.
It's funny when we were kids the biggest priority was cool wheels.
Now I'd say brakes and electrical should be first. With steering and suspension being right up there too.
So, the first thing I did was split my brake lines.
Then I tore into the electrical. I walked myself through each wire's route. There isn't much to the wiring on these trucks. I am confident that my 'refurbished' wiring is good until I can afford a new kit.
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Originally Posted by LostMy65

I will surely upgrade to a top reputable wiring harness in the next couple years.
Right now I have more time than money

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[Clyde65]

I had a small fire years ago under the dash, the ignition switch contacts were brittle and arched, melting the plastic which caused it to start smoking and arching.
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[WhippinSaw]

My Blower lead were it penetrates the firewall smoked and caught the inner firewall pad on fire, looked like cheek and chong going down the road.

[Brad54]

Wires leading to my dimmer switch died, causing a short in the dash wiring harness that burned the insulation off several wires, including killing my tail lights.

It sucked.

-Brad

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

One common condition that can cause problems is an electrical short. A bad wiring job is not only scary-looking, it’s downright dangerous.

Over time, many things can cause electrical problems with your 60-66. Components get old and worn, or a wire can rub against something and expose itself to metal. I've seen cases where guys inadvertently crimped a wire while installing a body panel. Sometimes during mechanical repairs, engine or transmissions installs. Wires can get in the way so they're haphazardly shoved aside. This is unfortunate because wiring is an old trucks nervous system. If it isn't in good shape and maintained, then things won't work properly. In the worst-case scenario, it can cause an electrical fire.

Electrical current normally flows from the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid, through the main wiring harness into the dash, through a fuse, then to an electrical device, and finally to ground, which is either the metal body or a ground wire in the wiring harness that attaches to the body. In an electrical short, current flows from the battery directly to the body chassis or metal, which is a direct ground and full unchecked amperage. In that case, it has taken a shortcut to ground, thus creating an electrical short circuit. God forbid if you have a fuel leak some where...

If a wire is shorting to ground without going through a fuse, it will get extremely hot and burn through the insulation if current flows long enough, which is sometimes only a few seconds. If a short exists on a fused circuit, then the fuse gets too hot and quickly melts the element inside, thus breaking the circuit and protecting its wires. When a fuse blows for any reason, there's obviously a problem. Be happy that the fuse is doing its job and giving up its life for the cause, otherwise wires can melt, or worse: an electrical fire can occur.

A blown fuse isn't always an indication of an electrical short. Occasionally, a fuse will blow if a component or its connector is corroded.

Ohm's Law - Electrical & Electronics


Electronics Tutorials about DC Theory - Tutorial: 1 of 10
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/...its/dcp_1.html

Quick Tip - Take A Few Extra Minutes & Do Things Right - StaceyDavidsGearZ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q676Xgcsbmg

[Captainfab]

I have never had an electrical fire, but I have had some issues with the wiring. These were the dimmer switch (leaky windshield contributes to this) and at the main plug that goes thru the firewall above the fuse panel. I have had trouble with the main power wire there. I believe that one was mostly due to a loose connection. I have also had a similar issue at the firewall plug where the starter and ignition wires pass thru.

[tincan1966]

My two cents worth on this- if you're spending al the time and effort to rebuild/restore one of these vehicles WHY cheap out on the elctrical-after all-you replace all the other items because they are old and worn out- that wiring is the same age and been thru the same conditions.

I also feel that my vehicle project is worth the money for added insurance.

On a techincal note- back in the '60's there were not the electrical demands on a vehicle that we have now. Almost everyone adds stereos, modern ignition systems, accessory power outlets,etc. All these items, tho small in each, adds up to greater electrical demand and simply adding a bigger alternator isn't enough.

Again, this is just my opinion.

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

My two cents worth on this- if you're spending al the time and effort to rebuild/restore one of these vehicles WHY cheap out on the elctrical-after all-you replace all the other items because they are old and worn out- that wiring is the same age and been thru the same conditions.

I also feel that my vehicle project is worth the money for added insurance.

On a techincal note- back in the '60's there were not the electrical demands on a vehicle that we have now. Almost everyone adds stereos, modern ignition systems, accessory power outlets,etc. All these items, tho small in each, adds up to greater electrical demand and simply adding a bigger alternator isn't enough.

Again, this is just my opinion.

I agree!!

[LostMy65]

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/04...e/viewall.html
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[Vernski]

Not dis-connecting the battery while wrenching under the dash on a amp meter is a good way to start a fire not to mention getting the wrench white
hot in a nano second and burning your pinkies to a crisp. And don't ask me
how I know that...Vernski

[LostMy65]

These two statements from the article I linked above drive home for me the argument that we should upgrade our wiring:

The original electrical system used PVC wire and is under-gauged by today's standards for all power circuits.

It's no surprise that millions of factory dollars have resulted in better terminals, better heat- and abrasion-resistant wire, and more secure connectors.

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[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Painless Performance Products
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...Classic+Trucks

Street Rodder Part 1 - YouTube

Street Rodder Part 2 - YouTube

Painless At SEMA 12-11-11.mp4 - YouTube

[K98AL]

I was on my way to work 25 years ago in my first '62. Smoke suddenly filled the cab, the unmistakeable stench of wires burning filled my nose.

The oil bath air cleaner had come loose and fallen, grounding the positive lead on my alternator. Burned up every bit of wire under the hood.

[ChiefRocka]

A big mistake that almost EVERYONE seems to forget is CIRCUIT PROTECTION !!!!

It wasn't a 60-66, but a '78 couple years ago I had to do a full harness on.

It was a mess, this poor guy trusted his truck to some 'tweaker' dude, who proceded to run 15 or so wirea thru a hole in the firewall.

No protection, and many were HOTS directly to battery terminal ... no fuse !

Pretty sad, truck went up while he was driving. Pulled over in front of a strangers house who came running with a garden hose. Burned up dash, and melted windhield !!

Circuit protection (fuses, Circuit Breakers, etc.) wire protection, etc. etc. etc.

Did I mention I found phone wire for dash feed ?!?!?