Changing color

[62 Barnfind]

I painted my front end a few months ago with Hot rod Flatz speed blue. After looking a pics I am wanting to change the color to baby blue, more like the original light blue color. I am thinking all I need to do is rough up the paint with 800 grit and paint over the other color. What do you all think?

From this,


To this,

[TBONE1964]

I guess that would depend on how much paint is on the truck already. You don't want to have a build up of layers and layers of paint. I would remove as much of the Hot rod Flatz speed blue before I sprayed more paint over the top of it.

Is this a single stage or a base coat/clear coat paint? I would bring it down with 500g to take as much of it off as possible then go to the 800g. I have not painted in a few yrs so I am sure someone with more experience will chime in here.

Good Luck

[Alan's Classic]

Moved and a bump

[hugger6933]

If your finish is not cracking or "crazing" or has check marks or any of the other classic signs or old dead car paint, witch it should'nt being as fresh as it is, I would say that you can sand and respray or do what we call a scuff and shoot. A scuff 'n shoot is gonna involve getting some wax and grease remover also know and refered here from now as WGR. Take WGR and after a good wash down with Dawn brand or Joy brand dish soap, wash your truck really good. The reason you never wash a car/truck with car wash soap before work is because that they wax concerntrate in them and that is stupid bad for new paint because you will push the wax down into the surface while sanding not shave it off, and the new paint will find it and go cra-cra. Now, after a wash and a dewaxing with WGR you can sand it over I would use probably a 400 grit then go back over it with a 600 for a final sand. 400 grit may be enough for most and it is I have done a lot of paints with just 400 on final sand but the 600 grit will insure that all the sanding scratches are gone. Most of the time like I said 400 will do but on a metallic the safest bet is to go to the 600 grit and the mettallic flakes won't be able to fall into the trcks of the 600 grit like they could of the 400. It is rare but it has happened. I know your case is different but I feel good suggesting sanding with 400 to start then finishing with 600grit. Now you might want to consider using a rubber squeege as a backer pad when you do go to the wet sand stage and also go in a lower left to upper right pattern with the 400 then do the opposite with the 600 to make double barell sure you cancel out the 400 grit scratches . Elsewise your wasting time and energy do ing the extra sanding step, that is way you want to do it right so it is right .