Seem like a good buy?

[myyamr7]

I'm trying to get an idea if it's worth me purchasing a project truck local, or just go south to try and find a rust free truck?
I've looked at a few already local to me and surprisingly have found some trucks with very little rust. Looking at prices for similar trucks down south, seems the asking prices are double up in this area.

This is one that I went to look at, owner seems firm on the price and there is a lot more rust/rot than he thinks or sees. The truck is solid for this area, but still needs both door bottoms, both front fender bottoms, both rockers, 1 cab/floor support arm, both inner fenders, and there's a rot hole above the heater motor...and of course the hood is rotted in the front. The bed and frame look solid with very little surface rust. It's one of those adds where the pictures make it look better than it really is, but it is all there and everythign works, so it seems like a good truck to start with. Does it seem like an OK buy? And if not, what should I expect to pay

http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/3385585603.html

Thanks

[Rochlow]

I'm going to say run. With that much rust seen, there is 10x that cant be seen. I'm going to say the lower kick and pillars are rusted, The inner cowl and the floor between the floorboard and toe board. And being it's a new england truck, it's hard to see the floor under the gas tank..

With that amount of rust/potential rust, I would look else were. I speak from experience. About a year ago, I bought a truck out of Brockton, that looked good until I took the interior out and found out the cab was junk.

[LEEVON]

hood rust scares me...I agree with Rochlow but use your eyes and powers of deduction. Pictures never tell the whole story, it could be a cream puff. Don't let a little rocker and cab corner issue get in your way. They all have it all the way down to Key West.

[Duncan and son]

It is hard to take a pigs ear and turn it into a silk purse...

[SS Tim]

Buy the best truck you can afford to start with and as close to what you want to end up with as possible. Saving fifty cents up front may cost a dollar or two later.

[truckster]

What do YOU feel comfortable with?

In my case, I'd rather buy a truck with serious mechanical issues but a straight body. It all comes down to what you think you have the skill/time/money to fix and what you can live with.

[TBONE1964]

Rot is rot no matter where the truck is located. I would ask myself what am I going to do with the truck, show, drive daily, a little of both. Nothing beats good clean GM sheet metal.

Just remember that no matter where the truck is from, most likely it will need rockers and cab corners. I paid 6,000 for a 72 Cheyenne that needed rockers and cab corners but the rest of the truck is rock solid.

If you are going to look south, I would make sure it is south west. Nothing against the south but even clean rust free trucks are getting harder to find there.

I don't know why it is that the truck market gets a lot more money in the north east. I live in Michigan and it is the same way here. Rust free trucks are gold.

[Graham57a]

There was a truck on the local craigslist for 3500, the guy told me he would do 2800. It looks identical to that truck. I went to check it out, needs cab corners and rockers and everything else looked really nice. It was ochre and white, cheyenne, AC, basically that same truck. If that's what you're wanting I would suggest waiting for the right buy, you'll be glad you did in the end.
As for rust on the front of the hood, it could be worse

[myyamr7]

Thanks for the advice so far

My plan is just a driver that looks and drives good. I'm not looking for show quality truck.

I'm comfortable with any mechanical work and minor bodywork. I'm not really afraid to replace rusted body parts and have done so in the past. It looks good looking under it, but I agree once the cab is pulled apart and the rust sand blasted..I'm sure there's much more than I can see.
I'm just trying to see if it's a fair price if I could buy it in the 4,500-5k range.
The rust free bed, rust free frame, factory AC (even works) and clean interior are what keeps bringing me back to it. My last '72 restoration had none of those

[Rochlow]

Let me rephrase by saying any place that uses salt or calcium to melt snow or ice on the roadway. A truck that spent most of its life in these areas the rust is typically more extensive than a southern/southwest truck. Most will have issues.

I only stated that way because I saw the CL ad was from Worchester, MA and I'm familiar with the area. My goal wasn't to claim one geographical area creates more rust than the other..

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Rot is rot no matter where the truck is located. I would ask myself what am I going to do with the truck, show, drive daily, a little of both. Nothing beats good clean GM sheet metal.

Just remember that no matter where the truck is from, most likely it will need rockers and cab corners. I paid 6,000 for a 72 Cheyenne that needed rockers and cab corners but the rest of the truck is rock solid.

If you are going to look south, I would make sure it is south west. Nothing against the south but even clean rust free trucks are getting harder to find there.

I don't know why it is that the truck market gets a lot more money in the north east. I live in Michigan and it is the same way here. Rust free trucks are gold.

Posted via Mobile Device

[old Chevy guy]

Looks pretty straight for new england all things considered BUT,the price seems kind of steep for the amount of work it seems to need. Make sure you check the roof area really good near the windshield under the visers. Its not hard to replace the sheet metal ( doors fenders,fender wells) but finding not rusted parts to replace it with will be the challenge. Parts add up fast and a nearly 6K truck will be 10 K in no time. Welcome to the board from a fellow Rhode Islander!

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by truckster

What do YOU feel comfortable with?

In my case, I'd rather buy a truck with serious mechanical issues but a straight body. It all comes down to what you think you have the skill/time/money to fix and what you can live with.

x2

[myyamr7]

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

Looks pretty straight for new england all things considered BUT,the price seems kind of steep for the amount of work it seems to need. Make sure you check the roof area really good near the windshield under the visers. Its not hard to replace the sheet metal ( doors fenders,fender wells) but finding not rusted parts to replace it with will be the challenge. Parts add up fast and a nearly 6K truck will be 10 K in no time. Welcome to the board from a fellow Rhode Islander!

Close to home, we are from the same town as well!

The cab looked good around the windshield, but I did forget to look at the rear window, good point!

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Graham57a

As for rust on the front of the hood, it could be worse

That looks like a refugee from a horror movie!

[CC69Rat]

I have a 69 SWB stepside I would sell if you're interested, 68 front clip. Absolutely zero rust, all the metal work done. new 408ci Big Block, TH400 trans, Lokar stuff all over it, and super clean sheet metal. 5 lug done, front discs .. I have a build thread on it if you want to check it out. I'm a ways from you though.

It just needs paint and interior to finish it up.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...444414&page=12

$8500 - with the rally wheels. 15x8 rear, 15x6.5 front. The billets would be extra. They are also listed in the parts section for sale.

Rust is expensive. You can put $5k into a truck needing rust repair and $3500 in parts and labor, then still need paint or $8500 into one you know is solid and you get to pick your colors, etc.