3 of 8 NEW freeze plugs leaking

[crazeetxn]

Well, it's been one of those days...

About a week ago, I noticed one plug (drivers side motor mount) was leaking pretty good. Did some searching around here and noticed I should yank the motor and replace them all. Good advice on account a couple more were ready to go.

So I went to AZ and got what they had...Dorman.

Got them back in and buttoned it back up tonight. Fired it up and damn if 3 of them aren't dripping. One by the water pump (pass side), and then the two rear (pass/driver's side).

Sequence of events:
- Pulled old ones out
- Cleaned hole with a wire brush
- Wiped clean with a rag
- Hammered in new ones (dry). Used a socket that just fit inside the cap. Couple made it a little more than 1/16" in from the top

So could I put some RTV around the edges and stop the leaking? I don't want to pull the motor again if I don't have to. With the truck down, we're down to one vehicle. I could probably convince my wife I'd have to pull it again later if need be

Any advice?

Thank you!!!

[3r!c84]

Did a company put in the freeze plugs? Or was it you..miss read it lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Don't run Dorman. Find some quality brass use a socket to drive em in straight and no sealer
Posted via Mobile Device

[wyattglock]

Agreed on not using Dorman. Check out your local Napa or even order some from Jegs or Summit. Get brass if your budget allows it. Either way, use a socket or seal driver that fits tightly in the plug. Tap it in gently with a hammer making sure you stay perpendicular to the block and you shouldn't have any more trouble.

[K30_dump]

Hello,

I agree on using brass plugs, but would recommend a small amount of anaerobic sealer around the outside if each. RTV is way too heavy, but the anaerobic will fill any voids and prevent leaks .

Hope this helps,

Joe
Posted via Mobile Device

[crazeetxn]

Good inputs ya'll.

Sounds like my first mistake with using Dormans...I don't mind replacing them via an engine pull (it's still fresh in my mind )

But is there a quick fix til then? I can probably get to it sometime after Christmas.

[BigBlocksRule]

Have you tried some radiator stop leak? If they're seeping, it should work and save you a lot of trouble until you have a chance to pull it.
I use brass, much less corrosion and they're soft, they fit themselves to the holes. Still use a bit of sealant, don't have any leakage problems.
By the way, they're "core plugs", not freeze plugs. Those holes are there to allow them to dig the sand out of the castings when the block is made. Some just happen to pop out if a block freezes. I've seen tons of cracked blocks with core plugs that never moved.
Where in West Texas??? There's a lot of it LOL

[motornut]

seen them pop
seen block heaters and plugs rust out,leak overheat and warp
and blocks crack just ahead of the mounts

[Zane M]

For a temporary fix you can try putting some RTV around the edges. The worst that will happen is it won't work...

[crazeetxn]

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

Have you tried some radiator stop leak? If they're seeping, it should work and save you a lot of trouble until you have a chance to pull it.
I use brass, much less corrosion and they're soft, they fit themselves to the holes. Still use a bit of sealant, don't have any leakage problems.
By the way, they're "core plugs", not freeze plugs. Those holes are there to allow them to dig the sand out of the castings when the block is made. Some just happen to pop out if a block freezes. I've seen tons of cracked blocks with core plugs that never moved.
Where in West Texas??? There's a lot of it LOL

Didn't think about leak stop. One is a steady drip, the other two drip but a little less than the other one. I may give that a shot until I can pull it. I'm just down the road in Swee****er. When I get ready to pull it again, I'll give you a call

[crazeetxn]

Originally Posted by crazeetxn

Swee****er.

I just got censored for Sweet water

[TwinTurbo]

t w a t

[crazeetxn]

Reckon I'm going to throw some black RTV around it for now and see what that does. Really need to get it on the road so my son can get to work on time. Probably next week or so I'll have a little more time to take it back out and retry it.

This time I will have better plugs and a little sealer available.

Thanks for the inputs!!!

[kelsfine69]

Dont think the sealer is gonna work cause as soon as the pressure builds it will leak. And I wouldnt use stop leak eather cause it gets in everything including the Heater core.. M2C

[Pyrotechnic]

Don't do the stop leak, it's just gonna gum up your cooling system. A topping of RTV probably won't help much either, there's a lot of steaming hot pressure in a cooling system.

If you must drive, make sure you have an accurate and responsive temp gauge. Bring a gallon or two of 50/50 mixed antifreeze along for top offs every time the truck had sat and cooled down.

[donut]

I've had good luck with the stop leak, little powder tube (aluminum?) not the black tar crud. Tried rtv fix as a teenager, no go. All it did was make a mess and waste time.

[BigBlocksRule]

Alumaseal. I've used it with mixed success, works fine on pinholes but won't fix a crack. It lubricates the pump, sure doesn't gum up that I have ever seen.

[crazeetxn]

So here's what I did...NOTHING (well, maybe a little something)

Pulled the motor back out in a record 2 1/2 hrs
Put it on the trailer
Took it to my mechanic. Nice guy, has an '86 himself
He got some BRASS plugs and used SEALER and a special TOOL to hammer them in

Had the old ones out and new ones in in less than an hour!!!!

Best $100 I ever spent...

[wyattglock]

Great news! Good to hear he helped you out. Doesn't sound like he charged to much either.
Posted via Mobile Device

[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by crazeetxn

So here's what I did...NOTHING (well, maybe a little something)

Pulled the motor back out in a record 2 1/2 hrs
Put it on the trailer
Took it to my mechanic. Nice guy, has an '86 himself
He got some BRASS plugs and used SEALER and a special TOOL to hammer them in

Had the old ones out and new ones in in less than an hour!!!!

Best $100 I ever spent...

nice, nothing wrong with that

[tucsonjwt]

Stop leak works in some situations, some situations not.

My trusted local mechanic uses it for late model DexCool antifreeze protected GM vehicles, even when replacing the DexCool with "mixes with all types" antifreeze. Stop leak (GM branded) was recommended by GM in a TSB because DexCool eats gaskets.

He recommeded it for my 83 C20 BB which had a very small leak at the front of the intake manifold at the gasket joint. It worked, but it does turn my green Peak brand antifreeze somewhat brownish. Considering my truck is an old beater, the stop leak did not bother me. Of course, I only drive my truck at highway speeds for a few miles on the expressway coming back from the dump once in a while, so the engine is not stressed very much, except for 110+ degree desert heat in the summer.

I recently bought a 2002 Cavalier beater car which appears to have the original DexCool in it. My mechanic recommended not doing a flush, but waiting until I had to crack the cooling system open for repairs, and then just drain and refill with "mixes with all kinds" anti-freeze, and add stop leak as a preventive measure - could be gasket junk ready to break loose inside the cooling system. I am going with that advice.