Started on my bed

[WadmalawJoe]

One of the previous owners just slapped diamond plate over the wood which probably served the purpose for whatever they were using the truck for. They spot welded it every 4-6 inches all the way around and used multiple pieces as shown below. I was glad to see all the metal strips were there and intact. The old dried wood kept it exciting as it liked to catch on fire. I forgot to take a before picture, but I remembered just as the first piece was loose and the wood was starting to burn. Also got a couple pictures of my assistants.








I will add some more as I go along.

[Greenlee]

Looks like you've got some good help!
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[hugger6933]

Good times, making memories enjoy

[67ChevyRedneck]

Awwww, get 'em started right!

[WadmalawJoe]

Thanks! My youngest son (the one in the picture) loves to come work on whatever I'm working on, the older boy, a teenager, don't give a crap, teenagers.....

Got some more pictures of the project;





Love this exhaust patch!

[WadmalawJoe]

I laid a tape across to show measurements, in case I forget and to help anybody else.

[leftybass209]

Looks like you got a good start! I'm always afraid to tear things apart because i know there's always something else that needs to be replaced. Though it's usually necessary, it's a hassle none the less!

[Already Gone]

Subscribed. Please post pics as you go. I have a new wood floor and strips, box fenders, new front panel and cross sills. I'm getting up the nerve to tackle the box redo so I'll be watching as you get into it.
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[Longhorn 70]

GMC Paul's has good info on wood for the bed.

[WadmalawJoe]

Thanks everyone!
Here is some other info;
I have used 4 cut off wheels (4 &1/2 inch size)
Cutting that diamond plate off used them up the most, one wheel maybe enough to cut the bolts loose, I would have a back up just in case.
I read somewhere on this site that someone cut the carriage bolt heads off then pulled the strips off. I'm not sure how they did that because the design of the strips keeps the heads somewhat recessed. My boards were rotten enough to pull one out then slip the cut off wheel between the strip and the cross sills, basically cutting the bolt in half.
The ends are somewhat difficult, the cab end wasn't to bad, the wheel would cut through the first and second bolt at the same time, because they are only 3 +/- inches apart. Then I would work towards the tailgate end. When I got there I would be able to lift the strip up (the cab end would be up a foot in the air or so) then it would be easier to cut that last bolt.
The perimeter bolts were the easiest for me except the 4 corners, well 8 corners counting the wheel well corners. Trying to get the wheel in the corner without damaging the sheetmetal proved a little tough. Be careful in the back corners the taillight wires are there!! (mine survived)
The 8 hold down bolts that pass through the wood and down into the frame. I am going to bolt the cross sills down instead and then notch the back of the boards to clear over the carriage bolt head. I will use a fortsner bit to create the notch or recess in the back of the board.
The wood that I will use I will get from a local lumberyard. I am a carpenter/woodworking dude as well, so I can save a little money that way. I want to use ipe', but I'm not sure if I can swing it, may have to go with oak. Ipe' is that dark hardwood that people with money use for the decks and porches. The stuff is wicked hard and durable, but expensive. I have few pieces of it, none are 8 feet long, I have enough to do the pieces in front of and behind the wheel well. Speaking of 8 feet, the bed is 97 inches, one inch longer than 8 feet! I'm hoping I can find "long" 8 ft boards so that I don't have to buy 10 ft and cut them down. A lot of times lumber is a little long so that you can trim the ends off yourself and it allows for expansion and contraction.
After the bed is done and a little bodywork I hope to get the truck painted. I'm going with the hugger orange color for paint. I can't wait!!!!

[Lee H]

Good start!!
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[WadmalawJoe]

I have been wire brushing and cleaning up the frame, cross sills and sanding sheetmetal. Then primed and started painting. I just used Rustoleum rust reformer spray paint as a primer. I have had real good luck with it on several projects. I sprayed the whole frame and cross sills with it, then just spot primed the sheetmetal. Inside the bed area I'm just using an industrial enamel from Lowes. I wanted something that would be easy to touch up and readily available. I will be using the truck as a truck to a certain extent. I am not going to carry gravel or rocks in it, but occasionally some lumber and such. The outside of the truck I will get professionally painted.

[Tinkermc]

I believe the steel decking was widely used to add much needed weight to the rear, not everyone carries the far lady with them for added traction.

[LEX]

So far so good.

[WadmalawJoe]

Started putting the wood in. I painted the bottom, ends and edges where I can't get to after its installed. I will sand, stain (maybe) and seal after its all in. I am leaving the metal strips off and just a doing a lap joint to join each board to the other. Basically a 3/8 X 3/8 notch down each edge of the board so they will lap over each other. I am concerned about the longer stretch by the wheel well. I may reinforce it from below to insure the boards are joined together well. The rest of the bed has plenty of support I believe.

[WadmalawJoe]

Forgot to mention I am using oak. I thought I would have to use pine do to budget, but found 4 boards up in my barn loft that were left over from a job. At $35 a piece that helped a lot.

[Sir Psycho C10]

subscribed....our trucks must have had the same previous owner. I have the EXACT same thing. Oddly enough it is seamed in the EXACT same spots with welds every 4-6 inches.
Crazy, once I get to cutting mine out I'll post some progress pictures. May be hitting you up for some advice. If I climb under the truck I can break off the wood and remove it. Time to do it right.

Best of luck to you!!! So far so good!!!

[WadmalawJoe]

Finally!
Oak is all in and I did a black oak stain & sealer combo.
I'm not doing the glossy varnish over it because I plan on using the truck as a truck occasionally and I don't want to have to worry about scratching it, even though it sure would look even prettier if I may say so myself.
As you see I left the strips out, I lap joined them together and used 3/4 inch stainless screws to secure it from below which required drilling more holes in the crossmembers.

[midniteblues]

looks good i hope it works for you and dont get all bowed up on ya.
loving the red oak grain patterns

you could try some veggie,baby,tung oil on the wood it would help with water penetration and its cheap just gotta be sure too wipe it off good

[ole dollor]

good job, looking better ever pic.

[WadmalawJoe]

Thank you, thank you very much...
I will be putting a tonneau cover on eventually. I'm more worried about the sun, here in the south the sun bakes the heck out of everything. Then in the summer with the almost daily thunderstorm, it will reek havoc on any wood.
I will have to make a note to update in 6 months to show how its doing. Spring rains and then summer sun will be a test for sure.

I am thinking of rubbing some tung oil on it, it will help protect and give it a little shine.

[WadmalawJoe]

Well, a three month update, no cracks or splits but I do have some cupping going on. I caved in and added some carriage bolts to try to prevent it, but probably should have just put the strips back on, but I wanted to do something a little different. The bed gets used a lot, if its something that will severely scratch or gouge the wood I throw a moving blanket down otherwise its open to the elements and abuse. I have rubbed teak oil in a couple of times, wish I would've done that more often, it helps a lot.





Overall, its not to bad. The sun does the most harm, dries it out causing it to cup or curl up. Rain will cause it to lay a little flatter.