Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, A/C in the Burb!

[68 Suburban]

I finally got motivated to install the aftermarket A/C in the burb. I purchased it a year ago on ebay from someone on the board that lives in Texas. Im sorry, but I don't remember the screen name.

With the help of HJAlbert and a little panic trying to find a correct water pump pully, it is up and running an blowing nice cold air.

By the way the pully that worked for me was a 3 grove oldsmobile pulley. Everything lined up perfect.

[Gee_Emm]

Cool !!!!! :p

[72shadetree]

gotta luv that ac lol

[racedvl]

Hhhhmmmm, I wish my 69 had a/c. Oh well, someday.

[Longhorn Man]

I am kinda wishing the longhorn was an A/C truck, but I doubt I will ever do anything about that.

[StingRay]

Boy is that ever gonna kill that high MPG you're always working to get LOL. So what's it gonna be good mileage or ridin' in comfort? I like good mileage but when it's a scorcher I say crank up the air

[Longhorn Man]

Actually, the EPA has done tests (with newer more aerodynamic vehicles) and say that you'll get better MPG on the free way with the A/C on instead of having the windows down. The windows really upset the air flow.

[kenele]

You ever heard anythng about their aftermarket A/C systems 68 Suburban? I am needing to get the cold air blowing in my burb. Getting air for the just the front from AMA is gonna cost me about $1200...........$1700 for front and back. Do you have just the front unit....and does it cool down the whole vehicle?

[68 Suburban]

Originally posted by StingRay
Boy is that ever gonna kill that high MPG you're always working to get LOL. So what's it gonna be good mileage or ridin' in comfort? I like good mileage but when it's a scorcher I say crank up the air

Hehe. Actually uses one of those new A/C compressors that are suppose to be a lot more efficient than the old work horse compressors. When you turn the A/C on, you can't even feel a drain on the engine.

Also, like longhornmail said, the windows down doesnt help with the MPG. And by the way, all my MPG stats were done with the windows down!!! Maybe I will gain some MPG!!!

[68 Suburban]

Originally posted by kenele
You ever heard anythng about their aftermarket A/C systems 68 Suburban? I am needing to get the cold air blowing in my burb. Getting air for the just the front from AMA is gonna cost me about $1200...........$1700 for front and back. Do you have just the front unit....and does it cool down the whole vehicle?

I went to them about 2 years ago and they quoted me about the same price. It sneems a little pricy for me. I picked up my unit which was less than a year old for $300. As for hooking it up, it was easy. Probably a little easier for me because mine had an old ARA aftermarket A/C unit, so the holes in the firewall and the core support were all ready there.

As for how it cools? Im sure it would cool a lot better in the back with the secondary unit....lol. It is blowing out the vents at 35 degrees when it was 105 out. (Not bad for 134a)I have only had it hooked up for 1 day, so I can not give you all the answers you are looking for.

I also need to fix some things on my truck. I need a new fan shroud, install the gromets on the firewalls to keep the hot air out, cut of the circulation of the hot water to the heater core. It would also help if I had new seals on the doors.

[72moneypit]

68 Suburban - was your "motivation" the 100+ degree temps in Phoenix lately? They sure motivated me.

I just got my original AC working again last week. Turned out to be a broken wire... cost me nothing! (that never happens!) I was only getting about 10 MPH before, and it's definitely worse with the AC running.

[68 Suburban]

Originally posted by 72moneypit
68 Suburban - was your "motivation" the 100+ degree temps in Phoenix lately? They sure motivated me.

I just got my original AC working again last week. Turned out to be a broken wire... cost me nothing! (that never happens!) I was only getting about 10 MPH before, and it's definitely worse with the AC running.

I bet that is one of the original compressors They do draw a lot of power. Mine uses a a sanden compressor that is much more energy efficient.



As for my motivation? It was because of my trip back to Chicago. I dread that humidity in the mid-west. Plust I thought I would give the Dingoes a break from the heat

[Project1970]

I really need to convert my factory air to an aftermarket 134a setup one of these days. Between the price of freon and the price of gas (that old setup is a big drag...I have to raise my idle in the summer to keep it from chugging at lights when the A/C never gets shut off!)

What would a complete 1970 factory air setup (minus one bracket, probably...the one from the compressor to the intake) go for used? Only way I could afford the $1k-plus for an aftermarket would be to sell all of the stock setup...

[68 Suburban]

Project 1970, keep your eyes out. There are better prices to be had if you watch.

That was one thing I was shocked about, was that I did not even have to adjust the idle with this new compressor. It is like it isn't even on.

[kenele]

is this a good deal.....for what comes with it? and could I make this work for my 'burb? I am trying to spend as little as possible while still getting something that wil actually keep me cool.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6765

[68 Suburban]

The most important thing is the correct brackets for your engine. I also don't see a compressor in those pictures.

[kenele]

so i need to match up a compressor to the system..or to the motor? and then the brackets and pulley,lines and a condensor too?theres another $300 eh?

[Project1970]

To add insult to injury...my fan switch is going out on me AGAIN...

I was driving around and heard the fan drop in speed...felt the toggle, felt warm...felt behind it, TOASTY!

This'll easily be the third or fourth one I've toasted since I've been driving it...I've already replaced the blower motor, the high speed fan relay (which is also disconnected because the power feed wire gets HOT!) and the connector to the switch as well...I really really want a new A/C setup.

[68 Stepside]

Originally posted by Project1970
To add insult to injury...my fan switch is going out on me AGAIN...

I was driving around and heard the fan drop in speed...felt the toggle, felt warm...felt behind it, TOASTY!

This'll easily be the third or fourth one I've toasted since I've been driving it...I've already replaced the blower motor, the high speed fan relay (which is also disconnected because the power feed wire gets HOT!) and the connector to the switch as well...I really really want a new A/C setup.

It sounds like you really really NEED a new a/c setup, or at least a new wiring harness

TJ

[racedvl]

Or a relay to take the load off your swich!!!

[Project1970]

Either way would probably work (the relay would pretty much be the new harness right there, heh!)...right now, no money, no time, and no garage. Hell, I've had to go 300mi beyond when I should've for my oil change because of those at the moment.

[hanssolo]

I need a vacuum pump to service my A/C. Harbour Freight has one for $16. This seems very cheap. Says it'll pull a full vacuum in 2 minutes. Does this require an air compressor? It says something about 90psi.
Also, my blower switch goes out evry 2 yrs. and has to be replaced. The hi position always works though. Strange.

[68 Suburban]

Originally posted by hanssolo
I need a vacuum pump to service my A/C. Harbour Freight has one for $16. This seems very cheap. Says it'll pull a full vacuum in 2 minutes. Does this require an air compressor? It says something about 90psi.
Also, my blower switch goes out evry 2 yrs. and has to be replaced. The hi position always works though. Strange.

Yes you need a compressor and the correct fittings.

[a71CustomDeluxe]

Originally posted by hanssolo
I need a vacuum pump to service my A/C. Harbour Freight has one for $16. This seems very cheap. Says it'll pull a full vacuum in 2 minutes. Does this require an air compressor? It says something about 90psi.
Also, my blower switch goes out evry 2 yrs. and has to be replaced. The hi position always works though. Strange.

Keep in mind you need to pull the vacuum for at least one hour. You'd be better off paying a shop to pull the vacuum. They can also leak test it.

The high position of the switch is straight through as in not going through a resistor. The bearings on your evaporator fan motor might be shot and causing it to draw more current than normal. This causes the lower-speed resistors to open up.

Richard

[hanssolo]

Thanx guys. I used to borrow a friends pump in Houston, but it was electric, not pneumatic. I always put in on for an hour and then watched gauges another hour for any leakdown. I built my own system. It uses a 1987 evaporator and condensor except its still the old "Long" type compressor and R134.