CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

realsales87 · 01-09-2013, 09:31 PM

Hi Everyone,

350 crate motor out of an old chevy blazez.

While after about a year and half I finally purchased an 84 K10, pretty straight body, little rust. I would love this truck if I could only stop the oil leak. My first mistake was taking the truck to Aamco where a $400 bill slowly grew to a $600, 700, 900...$1700 bill!! This was for them to find and stop the oil leak. Well after taking it back to them 3 times without them being able to find the leak I decided that maybe I should ask on this forum. (The guys at that shop are horrible...I noticed a squeek in my driver side front wheel...they told me I needed a new hub....To my suprise when I got home I checked and there was only 1.5 lug nuts tight! I tightened them all up and no more squeek!) Anyways, back to the oil leak issue. They replaced the real main seal, head gaskets, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission gasket, new pcv, and something else I cannot think of at the moment. Anyways, see pictures below. I still have oil leaking from between the flywheel area and down the passenger side of the oil pan. These pictures are after I degreased, washed, dried and drove it about 25 minutes. It looks like oil is coming down above the starter area? Is there anything that can leak from this area? I think the flywheel is spinning the oil everywhere but it looks like it is originating from the passenger side. Any ideas? I really don't want to put any more money into this motor since I currently have almost 2300 in chasing this oil leak...I could have bought a new crate motor. Any help or possible ideas is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Heath.

f.monroe · 01-09-2013, 09:40 PM

Have you checked the electronic oil pressure sender . If you have a manual gauge ignore that but there have been many of the electronic senders leak down the back of the engine. It should be at the backed the intake beside the distributor.
Frank
Posted via Mobile Device

realsales87 · 01-09-2013, 09:45 PM

Not sure, I will check this out. I think this may have been something they replaced as well when they were in there... I will have to find my receipts. Stay tuned and thanks for the input.

INSIDIOUS '86 · 01-09-2013, 10:07 PM

Check the back of your valve over as well. Gaskets can leak as well
Posted via Mobile Device

**LEEVON** · 01-09-2013, 10:12 PM

I had a 305 that I replaced every gasket on, including the rear main. It wouldn't leak at idle, then I would drive and when I returned it would be dripping from a leak that looked similar to that, like a rear main but the seal was new. I pulled the engine and went over everything including the rear main again...still leaked. I had a moment of genius one night and pulled each of the bolts in the bellhousing and measured them. Somebody had installed one that was about .20" too long. I got the proper bolt, put some thread sealer on it and voila! The leak was gone. It had just barely pushed through the casting into an oil passage somehow.

realsales87 · 01-09-2013, 10:19 PM

f.monroe, I checked out the oil pressure sender but there was no oil around it and it appears the oil is leaking from the other side. Don't think this is the issue at this point, thank you for the input though.

realsales87 · 01-09-2013, 10:22 PM

Leevon- Thank you for this information, I will give this a shot. Man if this works I will owe you some gift cards! lol. I will updated you if this seems to work once I get some time to pull the bolts.

Kryptonite · 01-09-2013, 10:23 PM

Did you check around the distributer? Im following this thread cause i also have a leak similar but i havnt changed my rear main yet.

**LEEVON** · 01-09-2013, 10:25 PM

Be sure to do them one at a time LOL. Just pull, clean the bolt and the block, liquid thread seal...resist the temptation to try it right away. Wait overnight.

It's a long shot but I've been there, nothing is more frustrating than oil leaks!

Kryptonite · 01-09-2013, 10:25 PM

Also if the shop was too lazy to notice your lug nuts loose , is there a chance they did not properly install your rear main seal? they dont sound too dependable

Damon23 · 01-09-2013, 10:29 PM

Check your distributor. I had a leak from that seal one time and everyone pointed to rear main. I would also be suspect if the properly installing the new rear main.
Posted via Mobile Device

geezer#99 · 01-09-2013, 10:36 PM

Go to the front below the altenator. There should be 2 bolt holes there right near where the fuel pump bolts on. Commom place for a leak. Should be short bolts in there. The one hole is used to hold the fuel pump rod up when you put on a new fuel pump using a longer bolt. If no bolts it'll leak like a sieve.

realsales87 · 01-09-2013, 10:44 PM

Thanks for all the comments everyone. I will be trying each of your suggestions over the next couple of days and I will update if I get it figured out. Stay tuned...

slugish · 01-09-2013, 11:11 PM

Please tell us what you find .Am chasing a terrible leak myself .Oil blowing all over exhaust & looks like a smoke screen once it gets hot . Have taken the flywheel cover off > crawled up under truck & looked for leaks > thought was rear main < mine is 2 peice --famous for leaking --. Only oil I saw was back of engine on drivers side below valve cover --have valve cover off now for valve adjustment > new gaskets > will put black rtv when reinstalling valve cover > have rtv on bottom of gasket , but will now put on top as well.

Yea this thing is driving me crazy too

BMERDOC · 01-09-2013, 11:13 PM

Ok. Heres how I find a leak and when it comes to an oil leak I CANNOT fail. I'm not allowed to. Since you arent a neighbor and we are starting from square one I'm gonna take the hard core route to help you. It may be overkill but you WILL find the leak.

Here we go: Spray the offending area down with a quick drying brake cleaner. We use Wurth in 55gal drums so I am unfamiliar with off-the-shelf quick drying products. Next, go to NAPA and get a vial of oil leak detector. Grab a set of UV (yellow) glasses and a black light and let the truck idle. Check for leaks with you Superhero gear and you should find it. If you don't, then drive it around the block and recheck. If you still dont find it drive around the block again and recheck. If you STILL dont find it drive a little further and recheck until you do.

Ok. Now that I got the super intense method out of the way lets go to a simpler method. I have heard of using baby powder and other home spun methods of tracing oil leaks but the only real way is to have the offending area squeaky clean and only run it enough to cause the leak. You can't clean it, drive it for a week and recheck because it just will not work. Clean it, let it idle and check it. If that doesnt work drive it longer distances until it does. NAPA and perhaps some other parts stores sell the tracer dye but you DO have to have the glasses and light to see it. Most times you don't need those tools

I wasn't kidding when I said I cannot fail when I have to find a leak. My tried and true method is to be very methodical when it comes to finding a leak. My timne is money and I can't waste time. Make sure the area is CLEAN and only do enough to make it leak. BTW, from a professional stand point, you should talk to Aamco about recouping at least some of your money. They are a franchise and you could go over their heads. That is a lot of money to shell out,even in BMW standards, and not be successful. It would be fair to give them one more shot WITHOUT recieving a bill. Other than than you should require some sort of refund.

Hope I helped and I hope you end up with a dry engine!

kennyakataz · 01-10-2013, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f.monroe

Have you checked the electronic oil pressure sender . If you have a manual gauge ignore that but there have been many of the electronic senders leak down the back of the engine. It should be at the backed the intake beside the distributor.
Frank
Posted via Mobile Device

Had the same problem, and it was the sender unit! The hose was too tight and cracked!

lowesguy · 01-10-2013, 02:35 AM

I fixed oil leak a rear main seal,came back to haunt me,forgot to clean build up at crank shaft at seal location with fine emery cloth

motornut · 01-10-2013, 10:57 AM

when the valve covers were done were they flatten back out?
the lip it sit's on can warp ,leaks out the back
also seen the ground strap,pass side bent under the cover lip too

mrolds88 · 01-10-2013, 02:00 PM

Nick has a great reply. The only other item that I could think of would be the cam plug. Is not expensive, just time consuming. Just a thought.

**LEEVON** · 01-10-2013, 02:46 PM

If it does turn out to be the valve cover by some chance this is what I do. Go get the extra thick (like 5/8") cork gaskets and a tube of the "Right Stuff" sealant. Now you need a very flat surface, I use my welding table top. Apply the sealant to the gasket, put the gasket on the valve cover. Now put it face down on the flat surface, and "work it in" until it's compressed but don't go overboard. Now put something that's about 5lbs on top of each valve cover and leave them overnight. Between the layer of sealant and the extra thick cork gasket you will have absorbed all of the imperfections and should be left with a laser-straight surface to mount to the head.

Billett · 01-10-2013, 03:06 PM

I agree with BMERDOC, that's an awful lot of money to spend when they didn't even fix anything. I would definitely argue that bill.

BMERDOC · 01-10-2013, 04:35 PM

I forgot to mention proper torque. If you find that it is a valve vover or oil pan don't forget to use the correct torque specs. For instance, a stamped small block valve cover only requires 3ft.lbs. (36in.lbs. or 4Nm) which is almost nothing. For some reason no one torques this stuff and they wonder why it leaks. If no one over-torqued them you wouldn't have to flatten the mating surfaces around the bolt holes. A calibrated elbow does not work because even if you torque to 10 or 15ft.lbs. thats more than triple the torque value.

motornut · 01-10-2013, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Ok. Heres how I find a leak and when it comes to an oil leak I CANNOT fail. I'm not allowed to. Since you arent a neighbor and we are starting from square one I'm gonna take the hard core route to help you. It may be overkill but you WILL find the leak.

Here we go: Spray the offending area down with a quick drying brake cleaner. We use Wurth in 55gal drums so I am unfamiliar with off-the-shelf quick drying products. Next, go to NAPA and get a vial of oil leak detector. Grab a set of UV (yellow) glasses and a black light and let the truck idle. Check for leaks with you Superhero gear and you should find it. If you don't, then drive it around the block and recheck. If you still dont find it drive around the block again and recheck. If you STILL dont find it drive a little further and recheck until you do.

Ok. Now that I got the super intense method out of the way lets go to a simpler method. I have heard of using baby powder and other home spun methods of tracing oil leaks but the only real way is to have the offending area squeaky clean and only run it enough to cause the leak. You can't clean it, drive it for a week and recheck because it just will not work. Clean it, let it idle and check it. If that doesnt work drive it longer distances until it does. NAPA and perhaps some other parts stores sell the tracer dye but you DO have to have the glasses and light to see it. Most times you don't need those tools

I wasn't kidding when I said I cannot fail when I have to find a leak. My tried and true method is to be very methodical when it comes to finding a leak. My timne is money and I can't waste time. Make sure the area is CLEAN and only do enough to make it leak. BTW, from a professional stand point, you should talk to Aamco about recouping at least some of your money. They are a franchise and you could go over their heads. That is a lot of money to shell out,even in BMW standards, and not be successful. It would be fair to give them one more shot WITHOUT recieving a bill. Other than than you should require some sort of refund.

Hope I helped and I hope you end up with a dry engine!

I did have to get mine looked at cause of one and this is where it was
the spray stuff and glasses found it
epoxy fixed it

MDc10 · 01-11-2013, 10:29 AM

Not sure if you found the leak yet, but here's a shot. Being its a crate motor, don't know how old, is it a right or left hand dipstick? My crate has a hole on each side for the dipstick, which leaves one side to be plugged, and on the passenger side its right above the starter, which sounds about like your area. Don't know if yours is the same but it's a shot in the dark. Hope it helps you out, let us know what you come up with. Good luck
Posted via Mobile Device

realsales87 · 01-31-2013, 07:41 PM

UPDATE...UPDATE...

Ok, maybe this isnt the update or info that can help anyone but I thought I would post anyways to close this thread out. So I have been searching and searching without success trying many of the suggestions listed above. I needed the truck today to get some lumber and while running about 55mph on I75 the truck started smoking very heavily and then all of the sudden a loud slam, then another slam. I quickly pulled off the side of the road and it appears the motor is smoke. Coolant was everywhere, oil was everywhere. $110 15 mile tow home and she sits in the garage. This is where she will stay until we pull the motor and put in a brand new one. Not sure what I'm going to get yet but I'm tired of messing around with these old motors so I think I'll go with a new crate 350 with a warranty

. I've seen some around 2-4k. So in my situation I have spent almost $3,000 chasing an oil leak and now the motor is toast. Lesson learned. Evaluate all possible options up front and if it is only a little more to do it right the first time it should be done right...even if you have to save and wait a bit longer to do it. At least in my opinion. ***Thanks everyone for all your help and opinions about my issue. This is a great website with great members!!! I will get photos of the new build in the next few months.

01-09-2013, 09:31 PM	#1
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Hi Everyone, 350 crate motor out of an old chevy blazez. While after about a year and half I finally purchased an 84 K10, pretty straight body, little rust. I would love this truck if I could only stop the oil leak. My first mistake was taking the truck to Aamco where a $400 bill slowly grew to a $600, 700, 900...$1700 bill!! This was for them to find and stop the oil leak. Well after taking it back to them 3 times without them being able to find the leak I decided that maybe I should ask on this forum. (The guys at that shop are horrible...I noticed a squeek in my driver side front wheel...they told me I needed a new hub....To my suprise when I got home I checked and there was only 1.5 lug nuts tight! I tightened them all up and no more squeek!) Anyways, back to the oil leak issue. They replaced the real main seal, head gaskets, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission gasket, new pcv, and something else I cannot think of at the moment. Anyways, see pictures below. I still have oil leaking from between the flywheel area and down the passenger side of the oil pan. These pictures are after I degreased, washed, dried and drove it about 25 minutes. It looks like oil is coming down above the starter area? Is there anything that can leak from this area? I think the flywheel is spinning the oil everywhere but it looks like it is originating from the passenger side. Any ideas? I really don't want to put any more money into this motor since I currently have almost 2300 in chasing this oil leak...I could have bought a new crate motor. Any help or possible ideas is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Heath. Attached Images

01-09-2013, 09:40 PM	#2
f.monroe Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Caldwell,Tx. Posts: 3,648	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Have you checked the electronic oil pressure sender . If you have a manual gauge ignore that but there have been many of the electronic senders leak down the back of the engine. It should be at the backed the intake beside the distributor. Frank Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Born and proudly residing in a Red State !

01-09-2013, 09:45 PM	#3
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Not sure, I will check this out. I think this may have been something they replaced as well when they were in there... I will have to find my receipts. Stay tuned and thanks for the input.

01-09-2013, 10:07 PM	#4
INSIDIOUS '86 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: washington Posts: 4,178	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Check the back of your valve over as well. Gaskets can leak as well Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511

01-09-2013, 10:12 PM	#5
LEEVON Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 4,887	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! I had a 305 that I replaced every gasket on, including the rear main. It wouldn't leak at idle, then I would drive and when I returned it would be dripping from a leak that looked similar to that, like a rear main but the seal was new. I pulled the engine and went over everything including the rear main again...still leaked. I had a moment of genius one night and pulled each of the bolts in the bellhousing and measured them. Somebody had installed one that was about .20" too long. I got the proper bolt, put some thread sealer on it and voila! The leak was gone. It had just barely pushed through the casting into an oil passage somehow. __________________ '20 Silverado Trail Boss ~ '17 Tahoe ~ '79 K15 Sierra Grande ~ '76 Blazer 2wd ~ '71 Cheyenne swb ~ '55 Pontiac Safari ~'50 3100 bagged ~ '80 Wife ~ Late model kids

01-09-2013, 10:19 PM	#6
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! f.monroe, I checked out the oil pressure sender but there was no oil around it and it appears the oil is leaking from the other side. Don't think this is the issue at this point, thank you for the input though.

01-09-2013, 10:22 PM	#7
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Leevon- Thank you for this information, I will give this a shot. Man if this works I will owe you some gift cards! lol. I will updated you if this seems to work once I get some time to pull the bolts.

01-09-2013, 10:23 PM	#8
Kryptonite Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Dawsonville Ga Posts: 10	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Did you check around the distributer? Im following this thread cause i also have a leak similar but i havnt changed my rear main yet.

01-09-2013, 10:25 PM	#9
LEEVON Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 4,887	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Be sure to do them one at a time LOL. Just pull, clean the bolt and the block, liquid thread seal...resist the temptation to try it right away. Wait overnight. It's a long shot but I've been there, nothing is more frustrating than oil leaks! __________________ '20 Silverado Trail Boss ~ '17 Tahoe ~ '79 K15 Sierra Grande ~ '76 Blazer 2wd ~ '71 Cheyenne swb ~ '55 Pontiac Safari ~'50 3100 bagged ~ '80 Wife ~ Late model kids

01-09-2013, 10:29 PM	#11
Damon23 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: D'ville Georgia Posts: 470	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Check your distributor. I had a leak from that seal one time and everyone pointed to rear main. I would also be suspect if the properly installing the new rear main. Posted via Mobile Device

01-09-2013, 10:36 PM	#12
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,541	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Go to the front below the altenator. There should be 2 bolt holes there right near where the fuel pump bolts on. Commom place for a leak. Should be short bolts in there. The one hole is used to hold the fuel pump rod up when you put on a new fuel pump using a longer bolt. If no bolts it'll leak like a sieve.

01-09-2013, 10:44 PM	#13
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Thanks for all the comments everyone. I will be trying each of your suggestions over the next couple of days and I will update if I get it figured out. Stay tuned...

01-09-2013, 11:11 PM	#14
slugish Slugish Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Earlysville, Va. Posts: 1,024	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Please tell us what you find .Am chasing a terrible leak myself .Oil blowing all over exhaust & looks like a smoke screen once it gets hot . Have taken the flywheel cover off > crawled up under truck & looked for leaks > thought was rear main < mine is 2 peice --famous for leaking --. Only oil I saw was back of engine on drivers side below valve cover --have valve cover off now for valve adjustment > new gaskets > will put black rtv when reinstalling valve cover > have rtv on bottom of gasket , but will now put on top as well. Yea this thing is driving me crazy too

01-09-2013, 11:13 PM	#15
BMERDOC Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Richmond,Va Posts: 2,934	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Ok. Heres how I find a leak and when it comes to an oil leak I CANNOT fail. I'm not allowed to. Since you arent a neighbor and we are starting from square one I'm gonna take the hard core route to help you. It may be overkill but you WILL find the leak. Here we go: Spray the offending area down with a quick drying brake cleaner. We use Wurth in 55gal drums so I am unfamiliar with off-the-shelf quick drying products. Next, go to NAPA and get a vial of oil leak detector. Grab a set of UV (yellow) glasses and a black light and let the truck idle. Check for leaks with you Superhero gear and you should find it. If you don't, then drive it around the block and recheck. If you still dont find it drive around the block again and recheck. If you STILL dont find it drive a little further and recheck until you do. Ok. Now that I got the super intense method out of the way lets go to a simpler method. I have heard of using baby powder and other home spun methods of tracing oil leaks but the only real way is to have the offending area squeaky clean and only run it enough to cause the leak. You can't clean it, drive it for a week and recheck because it just will not work. Clean it, let it idle and check it. If that doesnt work drive it longer distances until it does. NAPA and perhaps some other parts stores sell the tracer dye but you DO have to have the glasses and light to see it. Most times you don't need those tools I wasn't kidding when I said I cannot fail when I have to find a leak. My tried and true method is to be very methodical when it comes to finding a leak. My timne is money and I can't waste time. Make sure the area is CLEAN and only do enough to make it leak. BTW, from a professional stand point, you should talk to Aamco about recouping at least some of your money. They are a franchise and you could go over their heads. That is a lot of money to shell out,even in BMW standards, and not be successful. It would be fair to give them one more shot WITHOUT recieving a bill. Other than than you should require some sort of refund. Hope I helped and I hope you end up with a dry engine! __________________ Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever! Last edited by BMERDOC; 01-09-2013 at 11:21 PM.

01-10-2013, 02:35 AM	#17
lowesguy Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Temecula Ca Posts: 115	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! I fixed oil leak a rear main seal,came back to haunt me,forgot to clean build up at crank shaft at seal location with fine emery cloth



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01-10-2013, 10:57 AM	#18
motornut 78K & 79C Jimmys Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ottawa Ont CANADA Posts: 7,901	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! when the valve covers were done were they flatten back out? the lip it sit's on can warp ,leaks out the back also seen the ground strap,pass side bent under the cover lip too __________________ John 1978 GMCJimmy4X4-350/203 1979 GMCJimmy4X2-305/350

01-10-2013, 02:00 PM	#19
mrolds88 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: WV Posts: 946	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Nick has a great reply. The only other item that I could think of would be the cam plug. Is not expensive, just time consuming. Just a thought.

01-10-2013, 02:46 PM	#20
LEEVON Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 4,887	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! If it does turn out to be the valve cover by some chance this is what I do. Go get the extra thick (like 5/8") cork gaskets and a tube of the "Right Stuff" sealant. Now you need a very flat surface, I use my welding table top. Apply the sealant to the gasket, put the gasket on the valve cover. Now put it face down on the flat surface, and "work it in" until it's compressed but don't go overboard. Now put something that's about 5lbs on top of each valve cover and leave them overnight. Between the layer of sealant and the extra thick cork gasket you will have absorbed all of the imperfections and should be left with a laser-straight surface to mount to the head. __________________ '20 Silverado Trail Boss ~ '17 Tahoe ~ '79 K15 Sierra Grande ~ '76 Blazer 2wd ~ '71 Cheyenne swb ~ '55 Pontiac Safari ~'50 3100 bagged ~ '80 Wife ~ Late model kids

01-10-2013, 03:06 PM	#21
Billett Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Pittsgrove, NJ Posts: 1,502	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! I agree with BMERDOC, that's an awful lot of money to spend when they didn't even fix anything. I would definitely argue that bill. __________________ Will 1968 C10 - Project Texa Go 6.0/4L80e 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 2002 Ford Excursion 7.3L 2024 Toyota Sienna

01-10-2013, 04:35 PM	#22
BMERDOC Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Richmond,Va Posts: 2,934	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! I forgot to mention proper torque. If you find that it is a valve vover or oil pan don't forget to use the correct torque specs. For instance, a stamped small block valve cover only requires 3ft.lbs. (36in.lbs. or 4Nm) which is almost nothing. For some reason no one torques this stuff and they wonder why it leaks. If no one over-torqued them you wouldn't have to flatten the mating surfaces around the bolt holes. A calibrated elbow does not work because even if you torque to 10 or 15ft.lbs. thats more than triple the torque value. __________________ Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever!

01-11-2013, 10:29 AM	#24
MDc10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Broken Arrow, ok Posts: 181	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! Not sure if you found the leak yet, but here's a shot. Being its a crate motor, don't know how old, is it a right or left hand dipstick? My crate has a hole on each side for the dipstick, which leaves one side to be plugged, and on the passenger side its right above the starter, which sounds about like your area. Don't know if yours is the same but it's a shot in the dark. Hope it helps you out, let us know what you come up with. Good luck Posted via Mobile Device

01-31-2013, 07:41 PM	#25
realsales87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Posts: 16	Re: CANNOT STOP Oil LEak If I don't Know Where its Coming From...PLEASE Help!! UPDATE...UPDATE... Ok, maybe this isnt the update or info that can help anyone but I thought I would post anyways to close this thread out. So I have been searching and searching without success trying many of the suggestions listed above. I needed the truck today to get some lumber and while running about 55mph on I75 the truck started smoking very heavily and then all of the sudden a loud slam, then another slam. I quickly pulled off the side of the road and it appears the motor is smoke. Coolant was everywhere, oil was everywhere. $110 15 mile tow home and she sits in the garage. This is where she will stay until we pull the motor and put in a brand new one. Not sure what I'm going to get yet but I'm tired of messing around with these old motors so I think I'll go with a new crate 350 with a warranty . I've seen some around 2-4k. So in my situation I have spent almost $3,000 chasing an oil leak and now the motor is toast. Lesson learned. Evaluate all possible options up front and if it is only a little more to do it right the first time it should be done right...even if you have to save and wait a bit longer to do it. At least in my opinion. ***Thanks everyone for all your help and opinions about my issue. This is a great website with great members!!! I will get photos of the new build in the next few months.

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