Totally disgusted - flat cam

[Horsman]

After 500 miles of break in driving, my #4 intake cam lobe is wiped out. Took all the precautions, cam lube, break in oil, etc. This is a first time I have ever experienced this type of failure. Motor needs to come back out for complete disassembly and inspection.

What I enjoyed doing is now becoming work. Has anyone ever removed a 402 and left the tranny still in the truck?

[Tx Firefighter]

You can easy leave the trans alone. Once you get it unbolted from the engine, just support it with a floor jack while you remove the engine. If you're gonna have the engine out awhile (obviously in this case), you can run a ratchet strap from frame rail to rail, under the trans to support it so you don't have to leave the jack under there and so you can push the truck around if you need to. Or, put a couple of long 3/8 bolts through the bellhousing holes and put a section of wood across the frame rails for the bolts to hang on.

[lolife99]

Just curious what oil you were using?

[oilyrag80]

I feel your pain I had a big block eat a cam after 5000 miles put another in and it ate that one.I Pulled motor had block cleaned also had to have crank turned again. I dident want it to happen again so I put a full roller set up in it.
Everybody I talked to blames it on the lack of zinc in oil they say to run break in/zinc additive with every oil change. Good luck and engine bay looks great!

[Nitschke]

Are you going to go roller cam this time? What cam was in it? Specs, brand if you know. The long bolts and board work good. I had 5 cams in my 402 over 8 years (not do to failure) but have had two 350 wipe lobes in the last few years. Good luck.
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[69GWC]

The more I read the more it seems a person might just be money ahead to go with a roller set up if they can.
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[Horsman]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Just curious what oil you were using?

I was using the Joe Gibbs "BR" break in oil.

[lolife99]

That sucks.
That's what I was planning to use on my new crate engine,...

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by Nitschke

Are you going to go roller cam this time? What cam was in it? Specs, brand if you know. The long bolts and board work good. I had 5 cams in my 402 over 8 years (not do to failure) but have had two 350 wipe lobes in the last few years. Good luck.
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Roller cam is my next choice for sure.

I was using Comp's CB 268H-10 grind.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

You can easy leave the trans alone. Once you get it unbolted from the engine, just support it with a floor jack while you remove the engine. If you're gonna have the engine out awhile (obviously in this case), you can run a ratchet strap from frame rail to rail, under the trans to support it so you don't have to leave the jack under there and so you can push the truck around if you need to. Or, put a couple of long 3/8 bolts through the bellhousing holes and put a section of wood across the frame rails for the bolts to hang on.

Hate to ask these dumb questions, but this is my first C20 I have worked on and don't know all the tricks.

I appreciate the advise and direction.

Also, do you guys know if the radiator can stay in while the 402 is removed. Also wondering about the tranny cooler lines, disconnect or leave connected.

[SnS C10]

sorry to hear the news about the cam. I too just installed a summit racing 1103 cam with new lifters in my stock bore 4 bolt main 350. I did the proper break in procedure and ran rotella oil. Did my first oil change after the 25 minute break in and put rotella in it again and am ready for my first 500 miles. Im crossing my fingers that it will be okay

[71swb4x4]

The radiator can stay in. If you leave it in put a piece of plywood in front of it so you don't dent the radiator fins if you bump it.
If it was me, I would just pull it. You will already have the hoses off it and have it drained. Unhook the trans cooler lines, undo the four bolts, and pull that sucker out.

The trans cooler lines will be fine. If you remove the radiator just tie the trans cooler lines over to the side so they don't get into the way.

[ole dollor]

horsman : when you put the cam in how did you adjust the lifters. most books and people will say one full turn after the rocker goes quite, i have always went only one half turn more, and have never had a cam lobe problem, but some times the cam was made to soft to start with and will wear no mater what you do, back in the 70's if i remember right ,chevy had a bad batch of cams that were made with to soft of metal , and dealers were full of motors needing new cams...

[TobyArnot]

Originally Posted by Horsman

Roller cam is my next choice for sure.

I was using Comp's CB 268H-10 grind.

.
I had the same grind do the same thing in a 454 I had "professionally" built. Contacted Tech at Comp. Cams. I sent them the cam and bad lifter(s) and while they didn't admit a failure, they did allow me the original price against a roller set-up and also cut a super deal on the rollers themselves. Not the best solution, but worth a shot. Also destroyed the oil pump. Found bad scoring in a new Melling pump. Hot-tanked, new cam bearings, the whole nine yards.

[ole dollor]

i also forgot to say ...you can pull the cam out with out pulling the motor, if it just needs a cam and lifters.

[piecesparts]

Did you do the right thing on the initial startup to ensure the cam was broken in right? The instructions for most cams require starting the enigne and taking it to an RPM that is around 2000 for a period of 20 minutes (give or take), this is to set the cam and to break the fiinsh in right.

[sir_talk_alot]

ive talked with some guys in the turbo buick world and they have the same problems as bbc's, the lack of zinc in the oil causes cam failure. thanks to the government about 7-8 years ago, they removed zinc. on hyd flat tappet cams, this spells disaster. you need to either add a zinc additive, buy a racing based oil with zinc in it or an aviation oil for small puddle jumpers. aeroshell runs around 6.50-7.25 a qt.the lack of zinc in your oil is what chews up cams. you can spend the money and go roller or you can just add zinc on oil changes.

[So.Cal.Super]

Sorry to hear you lost the Cam, That is a good looking motor.

you can do Cam and lifters in the truck, and I pulled my 402 with leaving the tranny it. I would pull the radiator just because with my luck I would screw up and bust it.

just curious did you change the oil and filter after the 20min break in and add more zinc additive?

My pref is the vr-1 racing oil @ 1400ppm zinc and then I add the lucas zinc additive.

When I was talking with my engine builder he will cut the filter open after the 20 min run to inspect it.

Please, please Don't use a fram filter. you will get better oil pressure with a napa gold or K&n

Best of luck with the new Cam.

[Zoomin]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

You can easy leave the trans alone. Once you get it unbolted from the engine, just support it with a floor jack while you remove the engine. If you're gonna have the engine out awhile (obviously in this case), you can run a ratchet strap from frame rail to rail, under the trans to support it so you don't have to leave the jack under there and so you can push the truck around if you need to. Or, put a couple of long 3/8 bolts through the bellhousing holes and put a section of wood across the frame rails for the bolts to hang on.

Good tips right there.

Thx
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[Horsman]

Originally Posted by ole dollor

horsman : when you put the cam in how did you adjust the lifters. most books and people will say one full turn after the rocker goes quite, i have always went only one half turn more, and have never had a cam lobe problem, but some times the cam was made to soft to start with and will wear no mater what you do, back in the 70's if i remember right ,chevy had a bad batch of cams that were made with to soft of metal , and dealers were full of motors needing new cams...

Took the lash out, felt minor drag on the pushrod and went half turn.

I feel I got a bad cam and/or lifter, I will know more once it is torn apart.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

Did you do the right thing on the initial startup to ensure the cam was broken in right? The instructions for most cams require starting the enigne and taking it to an RPM that is around 2000 for a period of 20 minutes (give or take), this is to set the cam and to break the fiinsh in right.

Yes, for sure. I have done this many times and this is my first failure.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by So.Cal.Super

Sorry to hear you lost the Cam, That is a good looking motor.

you can do Cam and lifters in the truck, and I pulled my 402 with leaving the tranny it. I would pull the radiator just because with my luck I would screw up and bust it.

just curious did you change the oil and filter after the 20min break in and add more zinc additive?

My pref is the vr-1 racing oil @ 1400ppm zinc and then I add the lucas zinc additive.

When I was talking with my engine builder he will cut the filter open after the 20 min run to inspect it.

Please, please Don't use a fram filter. you will get better oil pressure with a napa gold or K&n

Best of luck with the new Cam.

I was using the Joe Gibbs break in oil. The tech folks at Gibbs said run it for 500 miles then change it with their HR oil.

I always use the A/C delco filters.

[Zoomin]

That engine is a piece of crap is what the problem is. I've got a tired 327 single barrel that will at least run I'll swap ya for.

Why no build thread on this rascal? Looks terrific!

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

That engine is a piece of crap is what the problem is. I've got a tired 327 single barrel that will at least run I'll swap ya for.

Why no build thread on this rascal? Looks terrific!

My lack of time really. Looking back I should have done a build thread.

[Longhorn 70]

Don't forget too unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate and push out back in the bell housing Iif you are going to pull the engine.
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