This horn button assembly is irritating me. Help?

[Mister-B]

I had another thread on this a while back, but a lot has changed since then and so I want to lay it out fresh.

I have a '69. I bought an original steering wheel off a '67, because they are less prone to cracking and look better IMHO. Anyway, I restored it, painted it, and installed it. Problem was, the horn wouldn't work. I discovered the inner horn button assembly is different on a '67 wheel, in part because the new round horn button needs the longer inner cup for attachment. So, I found a '67 inner horn assembly and horn button.

Got everything installed, and the horn still doesn't work. Someone said to clean off any overspray paint from the inside of the steering wheel. I did that too, but it still doesn't honk the horn when I push the button. It'll sure honk as I'm installing the pieces and touching metal to metal, but as soon as I get all the parts in place as they should be, the horn won't honk.

Any ideas?
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[Ol Blue K20]

I remember the last thread but how bout a fresh photo of how you got it assembled. it's a ground problem thats for sure. The relay is always hot and your button completes the ground to click the relay. your proving the circuit is good when it honks when ya don't want it to

[DesertCat]

Can you make it honk by grounding the horn wire in the column?

If not, go to the relay near the fuse box and see if it will play there.

I had the opposite problem - honked all the time (didn't have the correct horn insulator)

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I remember the last thread but how bout a fresh photo of how you got it assembled. it's a ground problem thats for sure. The relay is always hot and your button completes the ground to click the relay. your proving the circuit is good when it honks when ya don't want it to

I'll get some fresh pictures posted.

How does this assembly work though? I see there's a spring mounted button. If I take a screw driver and touch that metal button to the nut that holds the steering wheel on, it'll honk. Where does the metal piece that sits closest to the bottom if the steering wheel touch to make contact and honk the horn?
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[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by DesertCat

Can you make it honk by grounding the horn wire in the column?

If not, go to the relay near the fuse box and see if it will play there.

I had the opposite problem - honked all the time (didn't have the correct horn insulator)

I'm pretty sure all of that works. It all worked before. The only thing that's changed is the wheel and the horn button assembly
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[Ol Blue K20]

I have always assumed the spring disc under the cup made contact with the steering wheel thus grounding thru the shaft

[LockDoc]

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I'm still thinking you may be pinching the metal disk when you tighten the screws down. It can be really hard to get it centered so the holes slide over the plastic retainer when you tighten it up. What I do is to tighten the screws snug enough to put pressure on the disk but just loose enough so you can still move the metal disk around with a small screwdriver, either through the center hole or around the outside edge. Move the disk around until it drops over the plastic posts on the retainer. Once it does that you shouldn't be able to move it any more and the disk will look evenly centered with the center hole. Then finish snugging the screws down. This is one of those things that I could do in 5 seconds if I was there but it is really hard to explain in a message. Bottom line is if the disk is not in exactly the right place, and right side up (dome up) either the horn will not honk or it will honk all the time...

LockDoc

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I'm still thinking you may be pinching the metal disk when you tighten the screws down. It can be really hard to get it centered so the holes slide over the plastic retainer when you tighten it up. What I do is to tighten the screws snug enough to put pressure on the disk but just loose enough so you can still move the metal disk around with a small screwdriver, either through the center hole or around the outside edge. Move the disk around until it drops over the plastic posts on the retainer. Once it does that you shouldn't be able to move it any more and the disk will look evenly centered with the center hole. Then finish snugging the screws down. This is one of those things that I could do in 5 seconds if I was there but it is really hard to explain in a message. Bottom line is if the disk is not in exactly the right place, and right side up (dome up) either the horn will not honk or it will honk all the time...

LockDoc

Thanks for the help. I'll check that. When you say dome up, are you saying that since it is rounded on one side, that the rounded part should face towards the horn button, so that you can feel it sort of click when the button is pressed?
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[Mister-B]

It works now!

Turns out, there was still some paint down inside the steering wheel that wasn't allowing good electrical contact. I had to take a flathead screw driver and really scrape it down. Also, I tried Locdocs suggestion of using a small thin tool to make sure the back plate was centered.

Thanks everyone for the help
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[exdrocca]

Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I also have a horn problem. When I try to honk the horn, I just get a click from the relay. So far I have removed steering wheel to check connections, and installed a new relay. Any suggestions?

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by exdrocca

Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I also have a horn problem. When I try to honk the horn, I just get a click from the relay. So far I have removed steering wheel to check connections, and installed a new relay. Any suggestions?

The wire may have come unplugged from the horn under the hood.
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[exdrocca]

They are both plugged in. I guess I'll try buying a new horn next. I wouldn't think that they go bad.

[Andy4639]

Man I'm glad you finally got it figured out. I hate electrical problems.

[pritch]

Right on. Now you're a certified horn mechanic and you can fix mine!

J/K. I have a whole different problem. I musta melted a wire somewhere by foolishly not un-hooking my battery before fixing my turn signal cancelling cam. I shorted something out and great big sparks jumped out at me and now-nothing. I figured I'd have to break down and fix it when I went for inspection, but the guy didn't ask to hear itSo I'm good 'till May again

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mister-B

It works now!

Turns out, there was still some paint down inside the steering wheel that wasn't allowing good electrical contact. I had to take a flathead screw driver and really scrape it down. Also, I tried Locdocs suggestion of using a small thin tool to make sure the back plate was centered.

Thanks everyone for the help
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Hey! Glad you got it working...

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by exdrocca

Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I also have a horn problem. When I try to honk the horn, I just get a click from the relay. So far I have removed steering wheel to check connections, and installed a new relay. Any suggestions?

If the relay clicks that means everything in the steering wheel is working OK. Have someone push the horn button while you hold a test light on the horn wire up front and see if it lights. You might also try rapping on the horn with a screwdriver handle or small wooden hammer handle while the horn button is being held down.

LockDoc

[cericd]

Great news! I've been wanting to swap to a 67-68 wheel in my 70 but when I saw you having such a rough time I thought I might skip it. Thanks for the inspiration and congrats on getting it lined out.