Rear brake line questions/first post!

[65'RustBucket]

Hello, I just recently acquired a 1965 c10 longbed and have been running into some issues with fitment for my steel brake lines in the rear. All the prefab ones that I have tried seem to not have a "flat" enough double flange which, when fluid is pumped through, does not create a proper seal to both the wheel cylinder and T joint and I also suspect the culprit behind the reason it was so difficult to get the POS to catch threads. To clarify, it is 3/16ths in the rear? And has anyone else run into this issue with the prefab lines? Is there a special connector/type of flange for this truck? Am I doing something wrong? Haha it seems like a pretty straightforward task... And final question, should I just make my own lines instead? I see that they have kits at NAPA, has anyone used this hardware with luck? Thanks again!
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[harpo1313]

look in the fact section up top ,all kind of info there .also ole roy brake redo has part numbers of the adapters you need ,

[markeb01]

I don't have the answer to your question, but welcome to the forum!

[WhippinSaw]

I had trouble with the prefab lines also. I went to napa and bought the 3/16th double flare lines and bent my own. Keep the brake lines you are taking off as a template for the new lines from Napa. You will have to cut off one end and make a double flare there to size. Make sure you invest in a good double flare tool for steel lines. I bought one from napa that didn't work to well and ended up buying an Imperial Eastman double flare kit. No leaks with that flare kit. Borrow a double flare kit if you can and buy some extra tubing at napa for practice.

[TBONE1964]

Are you using stainless lines? Stainless is very difficult to get seated and may not ever seat against the wheel cylinder or the t-block. Just make sure you use a good quality flaring tool and you should have good luck with steel line.

[65'RustBucket]

@WhippinSaw

Thanks! Ya, I'll try the NAPA hardware and see how it works. Thanks for at least confirming my suspicions about the prefab lines. And was it the case for you that those flanges were poorly formed too? Or does the problem lie in the width of the connector? Or both? Haha Whatever the case may be I'm going to try them. Anyways thanks again.

And thanks everyone else! I appreciate the welcome
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[Crx150zc]

Might be an old school trick but it used to work in the day, heat the joint up with a blow torch and while hot snug it up another grunt and let it cool, not the right way to do it but it used to come in handy on the farm when tools and the right parts were scarce.

[geezer#99]

If you have a flare fitting that won't stop leaking try this.
You need to seat the flare to the cone. Tighten it up, loosen it off, tighten again a little tighter, loosen off. Do that several times. THe surfaces will mate that way. You're effectively moving the metal a bit to get it to seat.

[argonaut]

I used a pre-bent kit back when I added disk brakes to my 64. None of the lines fit quite right. So now I buy lengths of tubing and all the fittings I need and i bend my own lines and flare them. The mild steel flares like butter, especially compared to stainless. Stainless is also hard to get to seat because the metal is harder and less malleable than mild steel.

[65'RustBucket]

So I found a 25' brake line kit with assorted fittings for 21.99 from eastwood. Haven't ever used them before... Looks like harbor freight. It's cheap and it has a bunch of different fittings I'll try that!

Thanks for all the replies!
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[TehNewGuy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If you have a flare fitting that won't stop leaking try this.
You need to seat the flare to the cone. Tighten it up, loosen it off, tighten again a little tighter, loosen off. Do that several times. THe surfaces will mate that way. You're effectively moving the metal a bit to get it to seat.

I can second this method. I had a small leak when I put my new lines in and after I loosened and tighten it back up a few times it hasn’t dripped at all.

Ohh and !!!