Drum brakes all around

[JOJABOY]

1969 C-20 with drum brakes in front and back. Daddy always said, "Get her running, steering and stopping first". Well, thanks to Tom in San Pedro, she runs like a scalded dog. And thanks to you here in the forum, I have tweaked the steering and now she is handling like a Cadillac. But, the stopping part....Oy!

Short of dropping $1k in front end parts, does anyone have any suggestions to getting my truck to stop a little better? I feel like I have to stand on the brake pedal just to keep the idle from inching foward at the red lights.

[Billett]

what have you replaced on the brake system? Shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware? I think Early Classic sells a rebuild kit. Mine work pretty well stopping my c-10 lwb.

[JOJABOY]

I have only changed out shoes and cleaned and adjusted parts so far.

[69GWC]

I had a problem with mine when I first got it the peddle was hard and did not move much and off course it did not stop well. I think my prop valve was stuck after jacking with it the peddle moves now and it stops much better.
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[64fleetside]

73-87 3/4 ton front crossmember swap.

[TBONE1964]

Welcome to 1969. If you ask me, a 4 wheel drum brake set up will work just fine when all the parts are working. I have a 64 SWB with a single master and 4 wheel drum and it stops the truck just fine. It is nothing like the newer trucks and disc brakes will always stop better. Just remember what you have and what you expect of it.

Does the truck idle to fast? if it idles more than 750- 800 rpm, it is going to be a little harder to keep calm. Is it power drum or manual?

[Billett]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

73-87 3/4 ton front crossmember swap.

Not being smart, but how does this help braking?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Billett

Not being smart, but how does this help braking?

Front disc brakes.... Which I would recommend, even though, as Tbone posted, 4 drums can work OK. I just believe discs work better.

To the OP.... assuming wheel cylinders work and don't leak, try bleeding the brakes until all fluid comes out clean. You might need to add a power booster to get the feel you want.

[Billett]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Front disc brakes.... Which I would recommend, even though, as Tbone posted, 4 drums can work OK. I just believe discs work

I understand front discs, just thought suggesting a crossmember was a bit odd. Drums are much cheaper to replace and can work just fine as long as you keep in mind what you are trying to stop.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Billett

I understand front discs, just thought suggesting a crossmember was a bit odd. Drums are much cheaper to replace and can work just fine as long as you keep in mind what you are trying to stop.

Understood. Others have replaced the crossmember as a unit in order to upgrade to discs. It's a personal choice about how much money & work you want to invest, and how much the upgrade is worth to you. Luckily, my '72 came with front discs....

[JOJABOY]

No, it's idling fine. I just had the carb and HEI rebuilt. I found some fella by word of mouth that works out of his house. Truck is running great. My buddy said air in the lines but there is only a couple inches of travel in the pedal. I'm starting to think wheel cylinders or prop valve.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by JOJABOY

I'm starting to think wheel cylinders or prop valve.

No prop valve on an all-drum setup.

[69GWC]

Originally Posted by Stocker

No prop valve on an all-drum setup.

You sure about this.?

Is this not one.? Just asking here
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[NC67Chev]

Originally Posted by 69GWC

You sure about this.?

Is this not one.? Just asking here
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That's a distribution block, not a prop valve.

I struggled with getting my drum brakes right, but they stop great now.
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[Stocker]

Originally Posted by NC67Chev

That's a distribution block, not a prop valve.

Yup!

[69GWC]

Ok so whats the wire on it for then.?

I must of have dirt in mine as I blow it out and then I was able to get the brakes working again.
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[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 69GWC

Ok so whats the wire on it for then.?

For the light on the dash if you lose pressure in either braking circuit, same as in a proportioning valve.

[NC67Chev]

If you want to stick with drums up front, I would honestly suggest replacing the master cylinder, shoes (this you've already done), wheel cylinders, and hoses. But beware, my bakes lines at the wheel completely fell apart when I went to remove the hoses. None of these items cost much and shouldn't take more than an afternoon. After you replace all of these items and bleed them, I bet you will have nice brakes.
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[1moretime]

The wire is for the brake warning light. There's a switch on the distribution block that sences low pressure.

[69GWC]

Oh, yeah i knew that duh..lol

So could you ad a booster to the drum brakes and get better stoping power.?
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[jocko]

Originally Posted by 69GWC

Oh, yeah i knew that duh..lol

So could you ad a booster to the drum brakes and get better stoping power.?
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Adding a booster will not increase your braking power if that is the only thing you change - but, it will "feel" like more power because it will require much less pedal effort to accomplish the same thing. So, gotta have a well-functioning brake system to begin with as the booster won't change overall function, just make it easier to apply.

[NC67Chev]

Originally Posted by 69GWC

Oh, yeah i knew that duh..lol

So could you ad a booster to the drum brakes and get better stoping power.?
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I went on and added a booster when I was replacing my master cylinder and lines. Although for me it meant looking for a different air cleaner.
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[brad_man_72]

Don't want to spend a bunch of money? I made money switching to disc and 5 lug. Buy a cheap parts truck, good engine and trans will sell on c-list quick. Scrap what you can't sell.
I bought an ugly 76 that ran great for $600, just gotta look around for the deals and steals.

My drums worked just fine, I switched to disc because the drums were pulling a little and stopping with the boat was a little sketchy with the drums. But perfectly adequate empty.
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[JOJABOY]

So I think I will try bleeding them out and seeing what the fluid looks like down in the pipes. Will have to update with my results.

As far as adding a booster to an all disc system.....How much is entailed with the installation? Do I need to re run the lines from the master cylinder or is it as simple as bolting it in and then change the pedal rod?

[NC67Chev]

Originally Posted by JOJABOY

So I think I will try bleeding them out and seeing what the fluid looks like down in the pipes. Will have to update with my results.

As far as adding a booster to an all disc system.....How much is entailed with the installation? Do I need to re run the lines from the master cylinder or is it as simple as bolting it in and then change the pedal rod?

I'm assuming you meant to say: adding a booster to an all 'drum' system? If so, all you need is the booster, booster brackets, vacuum source and pedal push rod. You can just move your master cylinder out from the firewall to make room for the booster.
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