Help with buying a 80 gmc

[Bryant0228]

Need some help my people.
This guy is selling a 1980 GMC 1/2 ton, two wheel
drive. 350 engine. Primer painted. nice wheels
The guy is asking for $4000.00
You think that's a good Buy??
Any tips on what I should look for??
Your Help Would Be Appreicated ..
Thanks
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[andrewmp6]

Around here that's a 2k truck unless he can prove its worth that like brand new engine or trans with paper work.Is it a short bed or long bed tho?A short is worth more then a long bed is because most want a short bed.Things to look for are rust the common places are the cab corners and rocker panels.The cab corner is the lower edge of the cab at the bottom between the door and bed.The rock panel is the metal on the lower part of the door opening.But still look around for rust everywhere on it.

[Bryant0228]

Yeah the truck is a short bed.. He sent me a picture of the truck
Trying to find a way to upload it for everyone to see..
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[Bryant0228]

Here is the picture of the truck..
Going to pay the truck a visit tomorrow
will give you all up dates.. Thanks
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[79 silverado]

Hrmm... I'll only cover the sheetmetal body-wise, but, here is what I look at in a truck when I'm considering a purchase and adjust the price accordingly.

Hood: the leading edge of the hood, the flat snub nose part, can get bubbling or what looks like pitting. this is actually rusting through where the layers meet together. the fact its in primer means external evidence could be covered with filler and primed. Look from behind with it open, and perhaps open and shut a few times to see is small red/brown powder is left on the top of the core support as it is shaken out of the hood. Also on the hood look from the sides to see if the hood is arched compared to the top of the fender line. If it bulges upwards, particularly near where the hood hinge is bolted underneath, its suffering from the stiff hinge/springs that are common and it is a matter of time and bad luck until it kinks and bends the hood.

Fenders: Check low in front and behind the tires. These rust from inside out here, in front of the tire more common on the passenger side from the batteries, and behind the tires because debris that accumulates on the cowl can fall/blow/wash down the sides in between the cab and fender. This invariably ends up inside in the bottoms of the fender here, collects water, and acts like wet dirt to promote rust over the years.

Inner fenders/core support: again, battery can cause rust in and under the battery tray. Over time it can eat the wheel liner or bottom of the core support. Inner fender/wheelhouses also rust near the cab wall where a bolt goes through. the factory had a thicker trapezoidal layer of metal near these bolts to reinforce, do not be scared, this is normal and not a cheap patch.

Cab: starting within the engine bay look at the firewall seam, there will be a long left to right seam that runs across the length, higher than the engine. This seam can rot, and nobody makes a patch panel. Open the doors and look forward into the jamb. There is a flat strip that runs top to bottom and protrudes at a 90* angle from the jamb behind the fender. This is where layers of the panels making up the cab are pinch welded together. Strangely enough, I have seen earlier models, especially 1976s for some reason, rusting out here with the flat metal seam crumbling with rust. Same issue, no patch panel is manufactured. The rocker assembly has inner and outer layers. look at a patch panel catalog like LMC truck to see an idea of where metal should be. The rockers actually run forward to have a tab with hole as lower attach point for a fender. inner rockers can go bad without effecting outer, and vice versa. The catalog shows the inner rocker does not run all the way to the front of the cab to box it in, iit tapers in an arc. Toeboards rust, especially near the dimmer switch and edge of the cab. Also look and beware of any sill place or diamond plate overlay, it may hide rust so if you see it, look good from underneath. The carpets on these trucks can gently be peeled away from the edge and up under the dash, as can the insulation, again gently to avoid damage, so you can see the edges of the floor from above in these corners. Obviously look from beneath at the floors, but be aware, especially in dual tank trucks, part of the floor will be obscured by the gas tank. Cab corners can also rust, and also have an inner and outer layer of metal due to the panels overlapping. Bring a good flashlight and crawl around on your back, you will quickly see if filler has been added. Much more rare is the rust around the striker on the door pillar where the door latches closed, but, look to ensure there is no cracks or rusting in that metal. Some trucks rust around the windshield, or other surface rust issues such as around the rear window channel, these should be relatively visible and basic to see.

Doors: these are pretty straight forward, but try the vent windows out for opening closing before buying. I've seen the pivots rusted where they looked fine from 3 feet away, but, almost fall apart when you try to open them and the problem is visible on examination. Be aware that looking at the outer dew wipe seals is helpful. These are the black rubber strips that look like long wiper blades that press against the window as it unrolls. If these are cracked, or have chunks missing, water is flowing through the doors at a higher rate than usual and debris including plant matter may be accumulating inside which can trap water.

Bed: The cross sills on the underside of the bed floor can rust and reduce support. This can allow the metal to distort and crush, or eventually rust. There are drain holes in some corners of the bed, if these are plugged, especially with undercoating, water is trapped and can lead to rust. Corners near the tailgate are more often prone to rust than others, in part because they do not have drain holes. Unlike modern truck beds, these beds are bolted together with the only real welding of panels being the back edge of bedsides attaching to the sill that makes up the edge by the tailgate. All other parts are bolted, with use of seam sealer. These spots can rust if that sealer is breached, or if there was minor rust and someone did a shade tree bedliner job. Other common rust spots are the lower portion of the bedsides, more behind the rear tires than in front, but I've seen both repaired with filler. Some trucks rust out over the wheel arch, but this will be far less common in your part of the country. Open the tailgate and try the latch for good operation, look at the part of the bed where the tailgate pivots - it rests on a pair of bolted on brackets, and I have seen them rust here and eventually fail.

General tips: frame issues and damage should be fairly straight forward to look for. Bring a magnet and small piece of cheesecloth. If a magnet doesn't stick there is filler under that primer on that part of the truck. The cheesecloth gets around any seller argument of damaging the finish and does not effect adhesion of the magnet to good metal. be aware there may be significant holes filled from body trim and chrome moldings on a 73-80, these did not really use stick on moldings. Look at tu-tone trucks of the age to see where the molding was, and decide if you are ok with filler there, or even ask if it was done or perhaps welded up. If you get a test drive then going through a car wash tests seals and helps look for leaks around windshield, door, and climate box areas.

Might be a few things i left out, and mechanically of course it should be fully checked like any other car, but do be aware that 1) many guys lower these trucks improperly and unsafely by heating rear leafs and cutting front coils, 2) the front lower control arms on these trucks can rust and fail if it spent time particularly in an area like the midwest or northeast in its long past, you'll see if it looks smooth and stamped or jagged edges like something was chewing on it, and 3) if you do go 4x4 then check around the steering box for frame cracks from the bolt holes.

[andrewmp6]

The fresh primer makes me think they are trying to hide something.I'm sticking to my 2 grand on it.

[79 silverado]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

The fresh primer makes me think they are trying to hide something.I'm sticking to my 2 grand on it.

Picture isn't great, but to me, looks like a front end hit. Pass fender doesn't look lined up the best on the door to fender gap, it may be an illusion but looks like the rocker line is off towards the front under the cab, no front bumper. Probably swapped a clip of a different color on and primed it to be all one color after.

[FarmerDale]

Wow. 79 Silverado's post should be considered for STICKY. That was some good info. I'll have to look over my donor AZ truck at those spots to make sure I got a good body.
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[Bryant0228]

Thanks for all the good tips.. I'm kinda nervous about
seeing the truck.. Lol ill give you guys a update after I
visit the truck..
Thanks Again Bryant.....
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[Bryant0228]

Well guys.. I went over to look at the truck. Wasn't expecting to see all that, but the
truck is really bad. Seen a lot of patchs where bondo was place. Rust spots
on front and rear fenders. Rust spots eat away lower fender area.
Hood had a big patch, to where the patch was ready to break off. No front bumper.
Front grill had really bad cracks. Interior was just as bad. Cracked dash, torn seats, side panels all scratched up. Doors didnt line up with the cab. Rubber door trim torn. Sliding
window didnt have a lock. Windshield had two small cracks on upper left corner.
Lower cab had dents and tried to cover it up.
Engine area was dirty and oily.. Rust by battery.. Firewall was in good shape.
And the list goes on.. Hahahaha
Just think ill keep looking ..
But wanna thank you all for your input on what to look out for..
I appreicated..
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[Sterling]

Originally Posted by Bryant0228

Well guys.. I went over to look at the truck. Wasn't expecting to see all that, but the
truck is really bad. Seen a lot of patchs where bondo was place. Rust spots
on front and rear fenders. Rust spots eat away lower fender area.
Hood had a big patch, to where the patch was ready to break off. No front bumper.
Front grill had really bad cracks. Interior was just as bad. Cracked dash, torn seats, side panels all scratched up. Doors didnt line up with the cab. Rubber door trim torn. Sliding
window didnt have a lock. Windshield had two small cracks on upper left corner.
Lower cab had dents and tried to cover it up.
Engine area was dirty and oily.. Rust by battery.. Firewall was in good shape.
And the list goes on.. Hahahaha
Just think ill keep looking ..
But wanna thank you all for your input on what to look out for..
I appreicated..
Posted via Mobile Device

Explanation for ads:
Needs Minor Work – Needs significant work.

Needs Nothing – Bring tool box and have tow company on speed dial

Easy Project Car - Completely disassembled, bring many boxes.

Only Driven Sundays – Sunday is race day.

Fully Restored – Nothing original.

All Original - Neglected cooling system. Leaks out of every seal. Free rat poop included

[1774btcrew]

Phoenix is close enough to Gallup and there are a lot better deals on shortbeds here than $4000. Really easy to find rust free too! Sunbaked paint and dry rotted interiors but a lot easier to fix than rust!

[Bryant0228]

Maybe you could help me out on locations.. Or areas to look
down in the Phoenix Area
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[andrewmp6]

Some people think just because its a old car or truck its worth a lot when its not.I kinda knew you would find some messed up body work on it.Most think if they do a quick primer job it will hide stuff,Or they do a dirt cheap paint job real fast to sell it.I rather buy something that has faded paint and little to no rust.This way you can have the body work and paint done and know its been done right.The rest of the truck interior engine trans are kinda easy to replace vs a ton of body work.

[motornut]

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

Sunbaked paint and dry rotted interiors but a lot easier to fix than rust!

you got that right!

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by Bryant0228

Maybe you could help me out on locations.. Or areas to look
down in the Phoenix Area
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I watch Craigslist periodically even though I don't need another truck. That is where I would start looking if I were you. There are many in the $1500-2500 price range. My personal preference are original paint vehicles so I know exactly what to expect with no hidden surprises.