poly tank questions

[Jwill41]

I installed the poly tank from GMCPaul underneath my stepside last year. I have the filler clamped under the fender but want to mount it in the floor.
1st problem: I bought a marine filler but it is bigger than the neck on the tank. I had to split the outer layer of the hose to get it over the marine filler(not good). I could not find one the same size as the tank.

2nd problem: I have seen the post about heating and bending the neck straight up. It looks to me like it would have to "stretch" so far that it might tear. I am afraid to try this.

3rd problem: The tank is almost touching the wood in the floor. This leaves no room to attach the hose and marine filler as it is now. This would be even worse if bent straight up. Do I need to lower the tank with spacers or something? Don't really want it to hang any lower.

4th problem: I am getting water in the tank. I drained it yesterday and there was an extreme amount of water inside. It appears that the sending unit does not seal very well. What kind of sealer could I put around it that gas wound not desolve.

Please help someone. I am getting tired of reaching under the fender to fill this thing. I plan on starting to drive it daily if I can overcome a couple of these small problems. Thanks in advance.

[chaptr2]

Jwill41, I don't have the exact answer that you might be looking for, but I do have an idea that I plan on using on my stepside with the blazer gas tank that I installed.

May plan is to have a piece of pipe bent to fit from the gas tank to the side marker light on the drivers side. That way I don't have to mess with bending the tank filler neck on the tank or a marine filler in the bed.

I will take a piece of rubber hose and use that as the "female" piece that will adapt the tank to the metal tube. Then I will use the side marker idea using S10 parts. In the pictures in the link, it is shown using a very long rubber hose. I will eliminate that because of concern for road debris or possible damage due to a tire blow out.

I have seen this done at a car show and it looked and worked very nice. You don’t have to drop your tailgate to fill up your tank or have the look of a gas cap in your bed.

[smokekiki]

as far as making the hose fit,get a hose that fits the marine filler,and one that fits your tank.Go to a muffler shop and have them get an adapter that fits both hoses.

[Palf70Step]

I'm not sure which way I am going yet with my blazer tank. My truck is not painted yet. My thoughts right now have me going 2 ways.

1. I have a fuel door from an 84 GMC step I plan on grafting into the top of the step fender. It won't show as much from that position..nor do I loose my side lights. I will then shorten the stock blazer filler tube so it will be the correct length.

2. Marine filler mounted to the top of the step fender. Again not quite as visable, then get the tubing and not to match them up.

I'm at a bit more of advantage (I guess) because I have the factory Blazer tube that came with my tank.

Don't know how to answer your gasket/sealer question.

[nosto]

Jwill41,
I just finished the Blazer tank conversion I started last year. I ran into some of the same problems. Here's a few ideas and pics......
BTW: My filler assembly is from a Mazda 323.
1. I spent a week looking for a 1 1/4" hose to fit the poly tank. I finally got lucky at the Hydrolic<SP> supply where I got most of the fittings for my air ride setup. About $17 for a foot of hose. The brand name is 'Weatherhead' The Mazda filler neck was ABOUT 1 1/8" or some metric equivalent, so I used a piece of old rubber inner tube to make up the difference, and Permatex Form-a-gasket #2 for extra seal. Been driving the truck for 2 weeks, no leaks or gas fumes.
2. Yes, I got the advice on heating the poly filler neck on this board. And, yes, it worked! And, yes, the tank had a few gallons of fuel in it! I only had to move the neck about 45 degrees toward the rear (3/4" or so) to clear the crossmember.
3. I used the stock 1/4" thick rubber spacers and, yes, it is tight, but it's enough that bed doesn't hit the tank now.
4. I've always had good results with the Form-a-gasket #2, though theres probabily some new product(s) that work just a well.

Here's the door....

[nosto]

Shot of the filler (right side), overflow (left, larger diameter) and vent hoses from under the back of the rear fender.....
The brown on the filler neck is fiberglass I put over the weld, just for extra insurance (or I don't trust me welds, yet) The Mazda had a 38" filler pipe which I cut and pieced to fit. Best $20 I've spend in a long time....

[nosto]

Shot from just behind the rear tire, looking rear.......

[nosto]

Almost forgot - Had to take a lot of metal off the crossmember so it cleared the tank. It doesn't seem very strong now. But I don't plan to use bed for 'real' work!!! Also, the last pic shows the small notch I put in the bottom of the bed side. Probabily didn't need it, but it worked for me.

Here's the piece d' resistance (the neat part): The in cab lever that pops the fuel door open. The other part of the lever is a cable for the (Mazda) trunk, which shortly will pop my hood. The first time I bought gas, the pump jockey (for those of you who don't live in New Jersey or Oregon, that's the person who, by law, are trained and MUST fill your truck with fuel), the door wasn't hooked up, so I had to crawl under the fender to open it. No more......