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02-03-2013, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Watson, Louisiana
Posts: 312
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72 rear end question (12 bolt)
'72 c-10 swb coil rear.
ok. so i've got my rear end cleaned up and primed. I pulled the cover off the other day and didn't find any chunks or metal shavings and all the teeth look good. I'm thinking about changing all the bearing and seals. I don't know much about rear ends. How hard is this project? Should I really need to do it? How many people actually redo all of this with a build vs refilling with gear oil and keep going? also. it's a 12-bolt and how do I determine ring size? also there's two little bubbles on the rear end housing facing the sky one is right under the bolt that attaches the panhard to the axel. Well I was trying to unbolt the panhard and the socket cracked that bubble open. I looked inside of it and didn't see anything so I welded it back up... what gear oil goes back in?
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build thread - 1972 C/10 "Ethyl" 1974 C/10 " Paw Paw" C/10 Club Louisiana instagram - @esso_c10 @projectpawpaw |
02-09-2013, 01:41 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Watson, Louisiana
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Re: 72 rear end question (12 bolt)
no one?
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build thread - 1972 C/10 "Ethyl" 1974 C/10 " Paw Paw" C/10 Club Louisiana instagram - @esso_c10 @projectpawpaw |
02-09-2013, 02:40 AM | #3 |
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Location: Southern Cal
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Re: 72 rear end question (12 bolt)
Leave the ring and pinion bearings alone. You can change the axle bearings and seals easily, either outlined in your service manual, or there are several recent threads here on the board with good links explaining how to do it. I will look and see if I can find one.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
02-09-2013, 06:47 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cherry Valley,Ca
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Re: 72 rear end question (12 bolt)
Replacing all the bearings and seals is pretty easy, you will need a shop press or at least a bearing puller. If you use a quality bearing kit you can reuse all the old shims re installed in the same locations, no need to "set-up" the gears. The toughest part is setting pinion bearing preload and you should replace the pinion crush sleeve although I've re-used the old sleeve plenty of times and so far have had no problems.
That being said, if the pinion seal isn't leaking and the old bearings feel good there's really no reason to replace them. Id advise you remove the ring gear carrier from the housing to check everything out. If the carrier is tough to get out of the housing, the pinion gear spins cleanly(no play and no roughness while spinning) and the carrier bearing rollers look good you're probably safe to re-install and not be worried. |
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