Cab stand/cradlbe or support question

[Bret B]

I'm in the process of disassembling on my '65. At this point, I have just the wiring to strip out of the cab, gauge, and fuel line. Once I'm done, it is time to remove the cab. It occurred to me late last night, I don't have a stand or cradle to put the cab on. Any suggestions so I don't screw up anything? Also, how do the main wiring harness plugs go through the firewall? It looks like they are held in with a "hard" plastic collar, but I'm not sure. Don't really want to pry it up without knowing how they come out. I do have a factory assembly manual, but it is in one of those boxes which seem to be illusive and much better at Hide-n-Seek than I am.

Thanks in advance for assistance. I'll be starting a thread in the build section pretty soon once I get some photos downloaded from the camera.

[aerotruk63]

The grommets for the wires through the cowl come out fairly easily. Their rubber so their pliable.

Link to previous thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4018543

I went through an elaborate set up for my cabs. I wanted to be able to rotate the cab to work on the rust but also to be able to store the frame under the cab when I wasn't working on it



Dad and I built this cab rotator, I wanted to see how high I could go. I quickly discovered I needed safety pins so the cab would not fall out of the U cups the pipe sits in.

[Lugnutz65]

That is WAAAAY COOL! You can even give kids in the neighborhood rides on that thing! (Kidding of course!)

I should build one. I'll talk to my buddy and if I do, I'll post it.

Jay

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

The grommets for the wires through the cowl come out fairly easily. Their rubber so their pliable.

Link to previous thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4018543

I went through an elaborate set up for my cabs. I wanted to be able to rotate the cab to work on the rust but also to be able to store the frame under the cab when I wasn't working on it



Dad and I built this cab rotator, I wanted to see how high I could go. I quickly discovered I needed safety pins so the cab would not fall out of the U cups the pipe sits in.

[Bret B]

Wow that rotissery is some set up. Looks like a bit more above my skill set to duplicate. Got the lift, but not the know how for that.

Ummm, for some reason the grommets surrounding the electrical wires are hard, and not very pliable. There are other grommets which were rubber around the choke cable and temp sensor wire, but the main electrical wires aren't. I'll see if I can find something in that link you posted.

Thanks

[oklahomaduner]

We built this out of some scraps behind our buddy's shop. It's worked out great, it just mounts to the cab mounts and two guys can easily tilt it on its back.

[theastronaut]

Here's the cart that the PO built.


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[Bret B]

Thanks guys. I wish I knew how to weld something like those cars you're showing. Truth is, the only welding I know how to do is wrenches to batteries, or screw drivers to starters. I have a stick welder but I've never used it or turned it on. It was given to me many years ago. Not afraid to use it. Just afraid to burn the neighborhood down

theastronaut - how did that cart work for the cab? Was it sturdy enough and hold up to moving around a bit.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Bret B

theastronaut - how did that cart work for the cab? Was it sturdy enough and hold up to moving around a bit.

It seemed fairly stout moving the cab on and off the trailer a couple times. The plywood adds a good bit of stiffness- same as shear plates on a tube frame car. They'd help more if they were added to all four sides tho. My cab was 100% bare so it wasn't a lot of weight on the cart.
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[Bret B]

My cab is bare less the doors and glass at this moment. I fear the glass and may pay someone to come remove it, or leave it till paint. Appreciate the input on the cart. Like I said, the wood one may be my best bet. I do see what you mean by it being more sturdy if there was plywood on the all sides. At the same time, there may not be any need in the 4x4 construction, with the exception of the uprights at the cab mount locations and closed out with 2x and plywood for rigidity.

[theastronaut]

Just finished this one up. 4x4 and 2x2 tubing with locking urethane rollers.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Bret B

My cab is bare less the doors and glass at this moment. I fear the glass and may pay someone to come remove it, or leave it till paint. Appreciate the input on the cart. Like I said, the wood one may be my best bet. I do see what you mean by it being more sturdy if there was plywood on the all sides. At the same time, there may not be any need in the 4x4 construction, with the exception of the uprights at the cab mount locations and closed out with 2x and plywood for rigidity.

Do not fear the glass (64 thru 66 years). I used a wood chisel to remove the hard rubber edge that makes the outer lip and lifted the front glass out all by myself and I'm no rocket scientist. I saved the rest of the rubber and once the cab was off the frame and in its final resting position, I laid the glass back in place and wrapped some duct tape across the windshield and back around the A pillar. I think plastic food wrap would be a good choice too.

As far as the cab, my 21 year old son and I tipped it off the frame onto the driver's side rocker. He held it balanced while I towed the frame out of the way. Then I held the passenger side up while he came over to the PS and we both gently lowered it to the ground.

It now rests on four 6 ton jack stands which support it at the 4 frame cab support locations. I have a yard and no shop to roll a dolly around in. So I set the whole thing up on a utility trailer for the time being. See my BLOG for details.

[Bret B]

So as of the last posting I made on this, I was able to get the glass out, a 2x4 cab lift made and used an aluminum table I already had.

The glass did scare me, and I think there are others who may read this later and be hesitant as well. Fear not, if your windshield is not cracked, or damaged, it is likely the windshield will come out just fine. That is I'm suggesting for 64-66 models, pre 64 models have the heavier curve in the glass of course and I have no clue how stable/sturdy those would be. What I did was actually a mistake. I intended to clean out some of the ago old dirt and gunk from around the seal. As I was cleaning it, I went just a bit deeper under the seal, and the tip of my pick went straight through. I thought for a moment and figured oh well, no loss, I have to replace the seal anyway. That is when it hit me, if I cut the seal all the way around the glass, the glass would literally fall out. Box cutter in hand, between the glass and seal, and cut. Went like butter all the way around. Tapped the glass on the inside and it came right out. No damage and no cracks. I was a happy boy.

The aluminum table is just the perfect hight. Construction wise, it is a single center post 8~10inch diameter, 1x1 upright supports, 4inch x 3/16in thick C channel top and bottom, and 1/8 inch thick sheet top. Sturdy is an understatement. Got it from a concrete company that was closing up locally.

Thanks for all the input and the pictures above.

Bret