Radiator: Repair or replace?

[morcey2]

In the continuing saga of my "new" 1985 K10 pickup, the radiator in it started leaking last night on the drivers side of the core. It's a 2-core original equipment type copper radiator. I replaced it with the radiator out of my '84 and it's working much more gooder (technical term). This one is a 3-core, also OEM type, thus has a little more cooling capacity. After I got to work, I noticed 2 tiny pinhole leaks on the hot-side inlet. Everything else is dry and it seems to be holding some pressure, but not as much as I would have expected.

I just got back from O'Reilly and they have a Murray radiator that is supposed to be a replacement, but it is a single aluminum core with wider tubes, but still thinner overall than the original 2 core. It's $140 while repairing the existing leak looks to be about $70, but I have a few more places to call.

This has A/C, and though it doesn't work at the moment, I want to have it working by summer. So, should I have the existing radiator repaired or replace it with a new aluminum/plastic one? I didn't have any heat related issues on the '84 even in the hottest part of the summer, so I do trust that radiator to cool. I just don't know if it is getting ready to spring leaks in the core from corrosion/etc...

Thanks,
Matt

[Tx Firefighter]

Personally, I always repair the original ones, even if it needs a core, which drives the price up to what a new parts store one would cost. The original is much higher quality than a Murray from O Reilly will ever be.

[JCampbell]

^^^Ditto^^^

[chengny]

Due to fitment issues with the aftermarket units, I have been soldering OEM (brass/copper) radiators for awhile now.

It really isn't as big of a deal as they make it seem. As long as the watersides are clean they are worth saving.

And even if the internal passages are restricted with deposits don't immediately junk it. These radiators are extremely heavy duty and can be chemically cleaned using a good CLR type product (ZEP's Calcium Lime & Rust Remover is outstanding - and cheap at Home Depot).


The cleaning process is like this:

have used CLR and Bar Keepers Friend (the BKF needs to be mixed with hot water to get it into solution) to clean radiators several times with no ill effects.

I started doing this because the radiators were original - OEM with brass tanks and copper tubes. They were beautiful - had no leaks and the fins were all there. Looked great form the outside.

But inside was another story, the tube ends (where soldered to the tanks) were so fouled that flow was being restricted. The watersides of the tanks were encrusted with deposits as well (so the assumption was that the inner walls of the tubes were in similar condition).

There are no more radiator shops around here, so I decided to "boil" them out myself. Nothing to lose; otherwise they would have been junked.

I have only done this with the radiator out of the truck and lying flat (outside and on a wooden picnic table). Radiator cap is on and the small connection to the expansion tank is capped

Pour a whole quart of CLR into the radiator and top off with city water. I use ZEP brand - it has a higher concentration of acid (hydrochloric & sulfamic) than the big name brand. If using Bar Keepers Friend (oxalic acid) mix half a can of powder into warm water and stir until you have a solution that can be poured.

Let it sit for hours. When you want to check the progress, dump the acid/water out (save it in a bucket - it still has plenty of life). Using a garden hose at full flow, flush the waterside out. Go in both directions. Lift and shake a couple of times. When no more deposits are getting flushed out, pour the acid back into the radiator. It helps if you filter the re-used solution through a piece of window screen or similar.

With several applications (dump and flush with clean water between) the deposits will be gone and the copper and brass will be a golden color.

When satisfied that you have clean surfaces and will get good heat transfer/coolant flow, do a final long flush to get any remaining acid out. If it makes you feel better, you can use baking soda to neutralize.

This is only for a last resort on old-style brass/copper radiators. I wouldn't waste the time on the new aluminum ones with plastic tanks.



The soldering process varies depending on where the leak is. But wherever the repair is to be done - success is all about preparation.

Cut away the fins in the surrounding area to expose the repair area. Use a pair of scissors and a utility knife. The reduction of heat exchange capacity due to removing a couple of square inches of fin will be minimal.

Clean the area to be soldered with a wire brush (brass bristles/toothbrush sized is great).

After using the wire brush to meticuously remove any paint, oil/grease or leaked deposits, use a solvent to further clean the repair spot.

Wash the entire area down with a solvent that leaves no residue. I use Brakleen (red not green) but carb cleaner will work - as will acetone or MEK.

NOTE : AFTER USING ANY FLAMMABLE SOLVENT TO PREP THE AREA FOR SOLDERING, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE RADIATOR BE BLOWN OUT WITH AIR TILL COMPLETELY DRY. IF ANY REMAINING SOLVENT IS EXPOSED TO THE TORCH FLAME IT WILL FLAME UP AND MAY EVEN EXPLODE!

After the area is clean, liberally apply flux. Be sure to brush the flux down into the crack/hole. Use regular 95/5 plumbing solder for this process.

Then, using a propane torch with a small tip, gently apply heat to the repair area. Keep touching the solder to the tube (or tank as the case may be) until it flows. Remove the flame and fill the hole with solder. Only apply more heat as needed.

When the crack/hole is filled in and covered over, bring the flame back to the repaired area and reflow the solder one more time.

Fill the radiator with water and check for leakage.

If desired coat the repair and surrounding area with Rustoleum's Rust Reformer.

[morcey2]

Thanks for the help. (I've squirreled away chengny's post, since I already have most of the tools/supplies to do that) I found an old contact from when I was mechanicing who was able to solder the inlet. He also gave the radiator a good once-over (flushed w/ something nasty and pressure tested) and gave it a clean bill of health.

I donated the leaky 2-core to him for parts/rebuilding/flower-pot/recycling. The only thing he said about the new plastic/aluminum radiators is that they usually work really well, but fitment can be a significant issue. It's like they took a whole bunch of applications with slightly different dimensions and did an average that should work with all of them.... but doesn't quite.

anyway, thanks.

Matt