what to do to my gmc...

[no_rice]

so here i sit... trying to decide what the heck to do to my truck.











its manual steering and brakes, but has been converted to disc up front by the po. although it still has the drum/drum proportioning valve on it... and rubber brake lines.....?????!!!!!!

i have (now that i bought a 70 cts to make furniture out of) 2 power steering setups(bought one before to put on my gmc), and the chevy also has power brakes all though its drum/drum(i should just be able to get a different valve correct?)

here is some of my dilemma, its already got lowered springs in the front and its a leaf rear, so it has a flip kit sitting on 20/22's. if i am going to change the steering anyway, i feel like i should do all new bushings/ti-rod ends in the front while im at it... plus i believe i am going to put 2.5 drop spindles up front to get rid of the fender to tire gap that looks like crud compared to the back.

point being, im trying to convince myself to go this way instead of dropping so much $$$ on one of the very nice porterbuilt or similar whole front setups. thing is, if i go airbags later i will have wasted all this effort and just be tearing it back out. i guess the way i look at bagging it, is why bother if its not going to REALLY get slammed. otherwise i can just do a ,little lower static drop and run it. and bagging would only gain me a few more inches before i woulld hit the wheels wells anyway...

so, a few questions...

first of all, does anyone know of a whole frontend bushing ect.. kit?

im also looking at a full body bushing kit. seems people like the gmc pauls one?

then, since it has been upgraded to front discs, (of unknown used origin with new calipers and rotors) how would i go about figuring what spindles i need to be able to use the rotors and calipers i have. seems as though there are differences between some of the years...

also, i have yet to come across some different bump stops for the suspension. i really need to change them to a shorter version, or cut them down? with the factory stops, there is only about an inch or less between my frame and the stops. but considering the factory stops are what? 3+ inches tall?

then, is there a block you can get for a flipped rear axle to lower it another inch or so(i just assume the block would be a little different then a typical lift block)? ive looked but havent seemed to have found one even though it seems ive heard people mention them. i may have to do a c-notch, but id rather see what i can accomplish without one first. although i wont lower the back anymore until the drop spindles are on the front so i can see what i think of the stance. i dont REALLY want the rake, but with the 20-22's i almost cant get away from it while trying to keep the wheel/fender gaps uniform.

if i was to bag the truck, id have to raise the bed floor because i want to keep it intact and not have the hump in the center. i know people do it, but i havent looked into it much yet. im a fairly capable fabricator, even when i DONT have the right tools...(not that i can or have done everything) lol. first full custom frame i built was for a jet engined motorcycle...

i guess, this isnt going to be a show truck. i like the body the way it is for the most part. i just want it to handle/stop a little better and have the right stance. the power to back it up will come along later.

i do have a sport bumper for the back, so now i just have to buy the brackets to mount it.

it does need some interior work(ive already replaced the seat but still have the mexi blanket on because of the color of my replacement, and i tore off the old dash pad.

but thanks to LockDoc, i finally have atleast one good Aqua Green armrest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! as well as a much better radiator support then the acid eaten one currently on it! when i replace that, thats when i intend to do the body bushings hopefully. thanks LockDoc!!! much appreciated!

anywho, opinions? things you WOULD NOT do? things you would do differently if you had the chance?

thanks.

[steelhorse]

Just bring it to my house I will give it a good home.

[mgkgmc]

Maybe you could CLR the rust it might look a little better. Just a idea.

[Scott>72-GMC]

Awesome another iowa member and gmc to boot. Interesting seat cover
Posted via Mobile Device

[no_rice]

Originally Posted by mgkgmc

Maybe you could CLR the rust it might look a little better. Just a idea.

not so worried about the paint...

Originally Posted by Scott>72-GMC

Awesome another iowa member and gmc to boot. Interesting seat cover
Posted via Mobile Device

yep, we have talked before

[mgkgmc]

Sorry didn't read enough of the post to see what you were wondering about. Lol
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[Mister-B]

I wouldn't touch the exterior, other than installing the bumper, and treating the bed rust. Check out my thread on the bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=553105
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[ChevyCruizer]

Lots of questions...I only have a few answers.

Rubber brake lines are fine for disc brakes, well if they are in good shape. Looks for cracks, buldging, leaking. If they are bad just buy factory replacement 71-72 brake hoses. $7.43 each on rockauto.com

You would be suprised how low you can go, even with bags, without hitting everything. Look at my avatar/profile picture. Sure I cant drive with it that low but I think it looks cool sitting at a red light when I air it out then pump it back up to drive away. Vegas lights are forever long. LOL

I still have my inner fenderwells installed and the bed floor is not cut. I do have drop spindals, air bags and a bolt in C notch in the back.

On your front spindal question. The rotors and calipers are all the same (not talking aftermarket). The only difference is the spindal/ball joint. 71-72 have smaller ball joints than the 73 thru what 87. Now with that said either will work fine but the 73 up are a little beefier. Just make sure you know what you have so you get the right ball joints.

Bump stops, just cut them down to save money. If you want new just pick up universal fit poly ones that bolt in with a bolt/nut in the size that gives you enough clearance but will keep you from metal on metal contact. I dont have any installed at the moment. Only one time did I have a problem. I rubbed thru an air line and my front left bag deflated. I just adjusted the other bag pressure so I could limp it home, but i could still drive. Just not fully corner.

Rear lowering blocks are the same as lifting blocks. Our coil spring rearend uses different u bolts and the blocks are shaped different than most "common" blocks but there are several places that sell kits specific for out rear end. You can get pretty low without the C notch but will definately want a thin bump stop back there.

Your "rainbow" seat cover makes me want to hug a kitten. LOL

The only real advice I can give you is if you are thinking about going one direction, weather it be Porterbuilt bagged whatever, but are thinking of doing it in steps to save a dime, well just go with the way you want it right off the bat. Lots of guys here end up redoing their truck 2, 3 times to get where they origionally wanted to be. (including me) You end up spending way more money and time in the long run. Know what I mean?

Originally Posted by no_rice

although it still has the drum/drum proportioning valve on it... and rubber brake lines.....?????!!!!!!

and bagging would only gain me a few more inches before i woulld hit the wheels wells anyway...

then, since it has been upgraded to front discs, (of unknown used origin with new calipers and rotors) how would i go about figuring what spindles i need to be able to use the rotors and calipers i have. seems as though there are differences between some of the years...

also, i have yet to come across some different bump stops for the suspension. i really need to change them to a shorter version, or cut them down? with the factory stops, there is only about an inch or less between my frame and the stops. but considering the factory stops are what? 3+ inches tall?

then, is there a block you can get for a flipped rear axle to lower it another inch or so(i just assume the block would be a little different then a typical lift block)? ive looked but havent seemed to have found one even though it seems ive heard people mention them. i may have to do a c-notch, but id rather see what i can accomplish without one first. although i wont lower the back anymore until the drop spindles are on the front so i can see what i think of the stance. i dont REALLY want the rake, but with the 20-22's i almost cant get away from it while trying to keep the wheel/fender gaps uniform.

it does need some interior work(ive already replaced the seat but still have the mexi blanket on anywho, opinions? things you WOULD NOT do? things you would do differently if you had the chance?

thanks.

[Madtat]

That is a cool truck! Remember you asked.
I would.....
Prime the bed floor and rino coat it (or something along those lines)
Lightly wet sand the entire truck then just shoot it with a good clear coat as is!
Rattle can the engine dept to clean it up a bit, the motor looks decent enough.
Replace the dash pad.
Go with a silver'ish tint on the windows to accent the rim color
Buy some new zarapes and have them made into a proper seat cover that fits nicely.
I cant judge by the pics but i'd lower it at least 4" more in front and 3" in rear for a better rake.
I would also get a stock rear bumber and color match the front and rear bumpers to accent the finish on the rims as well. You asked.

[CC69Rat]

Blam !

20's up front or 18's? Maybe the rear's are 22" ? Either way, I wouldnt do one thing to it but bag it. ... just me.

I'd even leave the dash pad as is. Cool old truck man! I'd leave the sun burn on the hood, ALL of it. Or just bring it to Chatt and you won't have to worry about it anymore.

[no_rice]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Blam !

20's up front or 18's? Maybe the rear's are 22" ? Either way, I wouldnt do one thing to it but bag it. ... just me.

I'd even leave the dash pad as is. Cool old truck man! I'd leave the sun burn on the hood, ALL of it. Or just bring it to Chatt and you won't have to worry about it anymore.

damn you, you just HAD to do that...! 20 front 22 rears

Originally Posted by ChevyCruizer

Lots of questions...I only have a few answers.

Rubber brake lines are fine for disc brakes, well if they are in good shape. Looks for cracks, buldging, leaking. If they are bad just buy factory replacement 71-72 brake hoses. $7.43 each on rockauto.com

You would be suprised how low you can go, even with bags, without hitting everything. Look at my avatar/profile picture. Sure I cant drive with it that low but I think it looks cool sitting at a red light when I air it out then pump it back up to drive away. Vegas lights are forever long. LOL

I still have my inner fenderwells installed and the bed floor is not cut. I do have drop spindals, air bags and a bolt in C notch in the back.

On your front spindal question. The rotors and calipers are all the same (not talking aftermarket). The only difference is the spindal/ball joint. 71-72 have smaller ball joints than the 73 thru what 87. Now with that said either will work fine but the 73 up are a little beefier. Just make sure you know what you have so you get the right ball joints.

Bump stops, just cut them down to save money. If you want new just pick up universal fit poly ones that bolt in with a bolt/nut in the size that gives you enough clearance but will keep you from metal on metal contact. I dont have any installed at the moment. Only one time did I have a problem. I rubbed thru an air line and my front left bag deflated. I just adjusted the other bag pressure so I could limp it home, but i could still drive. Just not fully corner.

Rear lowering blocks are the same as lifting blocks. Our coil spring rearend uses different u bolts and the blocks are shaped different than most "common" blocks but there are several places that sell kits specific for out rear end. You can get pretty low without the C notch but will definately want a thin bump stop back there.

Your "rainbow" seat cover makes me want to hug a kitten. LOL

The only real advice I can give you is if you are thinking about going one direction, weather it be Porterbuilt bagged whatever, but are thinking of doing it in steps to save a dime, well just go with the way you want it right off the bat. Lots of guys here end up redoing their truck 2, 3 times to get where they originally wanted to be. (including me) You end up spending way more money and time in the long run. Know what I mean?

when i say it has rubber brake lines, i mean it has rubber brake lines... from the rearend all the way up almost to the master cylinder...! and by brake line, i mean gas line, used as brake line...! the sheer amount of expansion the line has to have everytime you stomp on the brakes is ridiculous!

your truck does have a nice stance! also, i would think to do bags, i would have to ditch the leafs(mine came with a leaf spring rear and not the coils) and switch to a trailing arm rear suspension... im sure you could take out a few leafs and then put a bag on to raise it, or get lowered springs and a bag, but i wonder about the either of those setups handling any kind of power once i do the motor.

and yes i know what you mean, i hate doing stuff and wasting money just to redo it again... i just cant decide if i really want to go air as much as i DO like it. just because of the increased expense of going that route...

i'll see how long those vegas stoplights are near the end of next month. the fiance and are are flying there for 4 nights and meeting up with some friends from australia for atleast a couple of those days, then who knows. so i wont actually be driving though. ugh.

[CC69Rat]

Glad I could help


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[68Stepbed]

I would take it for a drive.

[lolife99]

If you want to sell this truck,... contact me.

[CC69Rat]

IMO, you really need to consider PB stage DM front and rear, and just go ahead and bag it.

Done and done right it would double the value of the truck in just overall impact. Again, just my opinion. The unique GMC look really grows on you over time. I didn't like them until I bought one and I do really like them now. That P-chop really shows the potential and 'new attitude'. I'm not saying lay it out, just a really low drop.

Do some research on the PB mild notch. I know, .. I know .. you don't want to notch but honestly man I think mine is stronger now than it was before the notch. Nate's bolt in notch is incredible. It has 17 grade 8 bolts in it. Someone would have to work really hard to prove to me that any structural rigidity is lost with that notch kit. In fact, I'd say it's better than it ever was. I understand some will just cut and weld a plate to it and be done with it .. but there are better options and kits out there to do it right. PB, CPP, ECE, Ridetech, etc. There out there. Bag it!

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

I would take it for a drive.

I also would drive it as is. Very nice truck. Love the rims and the mexican blanket seat cover.

Keith

[no_rice]

oh i know there are plenty of ways out there to accomplish my goals! i just have to decide the REAL end goal!