drive shaft

[hjewell2]

A two piece drive shaft is stronger than a one piece, but is the mid carrier the weak link. how much abuse can a stock one take on 345 rear wheel hp and sticky tires.

[GASoline71]

I have a bud that owns a 1960 Impala drag car. He is putting 850hp through that rig, and it has a stock 2 piece driveline with larger u-joint yokes welded on it. It has a factory GM carrier bearing in it. It has yet to fail wuith countless 1/4 mile passes on it.

Gary

[Captainfab]

That depends on which carrier bearing you use. The light duty one that hangs from the top of the T/A crossmember or the HD one that sits on the bottom of the T/A crossmember. Of course this is assuming you are talking about a '60-'72 truck.

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I have a bud that owns a 1960 Impala drag car. He is putting 850hp through that rig, and it has a stock 2 piece driveline with larger u-joint yokes welded on it. It has a factory GM carrier bearing in it. It has yet to fail wuith countless 1/4 mile passes on it.

Gary

Holly schnikies gary, well I guess I will be fine.

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

That depends on which carrier bearing you use. The light duty one that hangs from the top of the T/A crossmember or the HD one that sits on the bottom of the T/A crossmember. Of course this is assuming you are talking about a '60-'72 truck.

1970 and has the one that hangs from the top.

[Captainfab]

Personally I would not run those driveshafts and carrier bearing behind anything other than a stock 250 I6. With the amount of HP you are putting down, I would definitely upgrade to the HD carrier bearing and driveshafts. Just my .02

Originally Posted by hjewell2

1970 and has the one that hangs from the top.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by hjewell2

Holly schnikies gary, well I guess I will be fine.

The driveline I told you about might not even be compareable to a truck drivline. Just thought it was amazing myself that a relatively stock 2 piece with a carrier bearing was workin' that much HP and TQ.

Didn't wanna give out any false hope or bad info.

Gary

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Personally I would not run those driveshafts and carrier bearing behind anything other than a stock 250 I6. With the amount of HP you are putting down, I would definitely upgrade to the HD carrier bearing and driveshafts. Just my .02

http://www.classicparts.com/1955-72-...ctinfo/92-907/

what I have listed above is whats on the truck, 1/2 ton and 3/4 so it says.

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

The driveline I told you about might not even be compareable to a truck drivline. Just thought it was amazing myself that a relatively stock 2 piece with a carrier bearing was workin' that much HP and TQ.

Didn't wanna give out any false hope or bad info.

Gary

Do not worry Gary I know what ya sayin.

[Captainfab]

That's the whimpy one. I have never seen one of those on a C20 truck. Those are the carrier bearings that give 2 piece driveshafts a bad reputation.

The HD carrier bearing is the one shown over on the right side of the page.

Originally Posted by hjewell2

http://www.classicparts.com/1955-72-...ctinfo/92-907/

what I have listed above is whats on the truck, 1/2 ton and 3/4 so it says.

[brad_man_72]

We build stock car driveshafts out of the same tube and weld yokes that came in these trucks, they handle 500hp+ in race conditions. Did I mention we drill a 1.5" hole in the center of the weld yoke?

The weak link is the stub with the bolt on yoke. If your running an auto without a trans brake or slicks I wouldn't worry about it.

The carrier bearing can handle 2000hp it just spins, it might take 2in/lbs to spin.
Why these carriers fail all of the time is that the shafts need to be reballanced after they have been worked on. Even something as simple as changing a ujoint will cause enough of a vibration to cause the carrier bracket to fail. Much less putting the bolt on yoke not in time, or putting the rear shaft in 180* out of time or even puttng the rear shaft in backwards.

Good ujoints and a ballance and it should last 100k miles.
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[hjewell2]

Brad man 72.

Thank you very much for the information.

I have heard about this being a good set up. tubing wall 0.090 thick I was told before. I often had thoughts that the carrier was just there for the ride and maybe move a little with pinion angle set up and launches. Like Gary said on post up top, can hold tremendous amounts of thrashing. I do run street slicks on it. 1310 u joints. 4:10 gears should help a little on the shock factor do ya think.

[brad_man_72]

Its either .120 or .083 wall, I can't recall (been violently ill all day)
If everything is in good shape you should be fine. Some people do like to weld small brackets to thicken up the sides of the bracket for some insurance.
I wouldn't worry about your setup at all with street tires and your power.

If you're worried about it at all have a driveline shop install some spicer life joints (solid cross, non greasable) and have them ballance the shaft. (Good insurance for any car)
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[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

Its either .120 or .083 wall, I can't recall (been violently ill all day)
If everything is in good shape you should be fine. Some people do like to weld small brackets to thicken up the sides of the bracket for some insurance.
I wouldn't worry about your setup at all with street tires and your power.

If you're worried about it at all have a driveline shop install some spicer life joints (solid cross, non greasable) and have them ballance the shaft. (Good insurance for any car)
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Cool, you have just made a friend in Michigan

[Keith Seymore]

Sorry. Disregard.

K