Installing harmonic balancer - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dubie · 06-16-2003, 04:59 PM

Do I need to put any kind of lube on this before tightening it down? I know I have to torque it back down with the pully and bolt but just wanna know if there are any tricks to it

OhioDan · 06-16-2003, 05:02 PM

You could lube it if ya want, but it's not required.

darrel_s · 06-16-2003, 05:28 PM

Rent or buy a Harmonic Balancer Installer. Do not use the bolt to pull it on. You can do it, but I learned the hard way that its not the best way. Bolt broke off in crank shaft. The trip to Autozone to rent the installer is far easier than having to drill and tap it out. Trust me. Also make sure to clean the threads on the crank.

da-burb · 06-16-2003, 05:35 PM

I pulled the threads when I used the bolt to pull on the balancer on my brothers 351 windsor. I would use lube and the correct installer. It isn't worth the feeling you get in the pit of your stomach when you know you just F'ed it all up. Thanks to the advice from the board, I was able to fix my problem and save the crank w/o having to drill or tap.

Longhorn Man · 06-16-2003, 06:38 PM

And if an installer is not avalible, toss the ballance in the oven at about 200 degrees for a little while and then cool the crank snout a little (ice maybe). The contracting/expanding will make it go on effortlessly with the bolt. However, you still want to watch it.
I have also used a bottle jack and a couple blocks of wood to press it on in the pact, but that is not good for the bottom end of an engine.

**old Rusty C10** · 06-16-2003, 07:07 PM

ive never lubed one to put it on but i agree its a far sight easier to use the correct installer auto zone has em and they rent em for free

**StingRay** · 06-16-2003, 10:07 PM

You can make an installer by getting a longer bolt of the same diameter and thread as the original crank bolt ( original bolt length plus the depth of the complete balancer) and then using a threading die extend the threads most of the way up the bolt. Get a nut of the correct thread (some lug nuts are the correct size) and thread it onto the bolt, put the heavy washer used on the normal crank bolt onto the long bolt next. Start the balancer on the crank. Thread the bolt ALL of the way into the crank and then tighten the nut down sucking the balancer onto the engine. Use lube on the balancer and the nut on your installer bolt. I have used the same set up for at least 5 engines and it still works great.

dubie · 06-17-2003, 08:42 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. We don't have an Auto Zone here, but I am gonna ask a few of the engine builders around here that I know if I can borrow one of these installer tools. I didn't even know there was a tool for this job

jimfulco · 06-20-2003, 04:16 PM

I use a piece of all-thread & a thrust bearing from an A/C clutch installer tool on top of the thick washer. I lube all threads with grease & use oil on the crank snout & seal surface.

06-16-2003, 04:59 PM	#1
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	Installing harmonic balancer Do I need to put any kind of lube on this before tightening it down? I know I have to torque it back down with the pully and bolt but just wanna know if there are any tricks to it __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-16-2003, 05:02 PM	#2
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	You could lube it if ya want, but it's not required. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

06-16-2003, 05:35 PM	#4
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	I pulled the threads when I used the bolt to pull on the balancer on my brothers 351 windsor. I would use lube and the correct installer. It isn't worth the feeling you get in the pit of your stomach when you know you just F'ed it all up. Thanks to the advice from the board, I was able to fix my problem and save the crank w/o having to drill or tap. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

06-16-2003, 06:38 PM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	And if an installer is not avalible, toss the ballance in the oven at about 200 degrees for a little while and then cool the crank snout a little (ice maybe). The contracting/expanding will make it go on effortlessly with the bolt. However, you still want to watch it. I have also used a bottle jack and a couple blocks of wood to press it on in the pact, but that is not good for the bottom end of an engine. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 06-16-2003 at 07:27 PM.

06-16-2003, 07:07 PM	#6
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	ive never lubed one to put it on but i agree its a far sight easier to use the correct installer auto zone has em and they rent em for free __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

06-16-2003, 05:28 PM	#3
darrel_s Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Denver, CO, USA Posts: 212	Rent or buy a Harmonic Balancer Installer. Do not use the bolt to pull it on. You can do it, but I learned the hard way that its not the best way. Bolt broke off in crank shaft. The trip to Autozone to rent the installer is far easier than having to drill and tap it out. Trust me. Also make sure to clean the threads on the crank.

06-16-2003, 10:07 PM	#7
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	You can make an installer by getting a longer bolt of the same diameter and thread as the original crank bolt ( original bolt length plus the depth of the complete balancer) and then using a threading die extend the threads most of the way up the bolt. Get a nut of the correct thread (some lug nuts are the correct size) and thread it onto the bolt, put the heavy washer used on the normal crank bolt onto the long bolt next. Start the balancer on the crank. Thread the bolt ALL of the way into the crank and then tighten the nut down sucking the balancer onto the engine. Use lube on the balancer and the nut on your installer bolt. I have used the same set up for at least 5 engines and it still works great. __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

06-17-2003, 08:42 AM	#8
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	Thanks for the tips guys. We don't have an Auto Zone here, but I am gonna ask a few of the engine builders around here that I know if I can borrow one of these installer tools. I didn't even know there was a tool for this job __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-20-2003, 04:16 PM	#9
jimfulco Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Shreveport LA Posts: 3,170	I use a piece of all-thread & a thrust bearing from an A/C clutch installer tool on top of the thick washer. I lube all threads with grease & use oil on the crank snout & seal surface.



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