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03-05-2013, 07:54 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Thought id start my build page
Me and my partner went to america for a holiday and came back with the best souvenir ! this is how i got it Getting a few rust spots fixed turned into a respray as in Australia it's so expensive for paint work so got it done in L.A before it got shipped to Sydney Got her home and start stripping her down |
03-05-2013, 08:03 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
motor out (Dad's 56 build in the background)
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03-05-2013, 08:57 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: El Paso, Tx.
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
wow, nice truck, love the color
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"El Jerry" '03 3500 Duramax dually '96 1500 ext. cab Chevy '66 swb C-10 '63 Panel '60 VW vert '56 VW vert |
03-05-2013, 11:16 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Searcy, AR
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Subscribed... Have fun with your build, and from the expression on your face, I'd say you're already into the enjoyment of these trucks!
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DON Proverbs 27:17 US Air Force Retarded errr Retired My '65 Stepper Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=533920 My '60 Rusty Patina Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...66#post7402266 My '72 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post7204359 SOLD |
03-05-2013, 07:30 PM | #5 |
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Location: oldfort tn
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
nice truck, but man that seat has to rough on the tail bone
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my 65 fleetside build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442370 big back glass conversion http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...dow+conversion |
03-06-2013, 12:11 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
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03-06-2013, 12:27 AM | #7 |
chevy only
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
welcome kat!! nice start you have been bustin some butt
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CHEVY ONLY... Nothin Else ! |
03-07-2013, 12:06 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Dropping the chassis back on the ground
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03-07-2013, 12:14 AM | #9 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Can someone help me that may have issues with pinion vs motor angle?
We cant adjust the rear angle as the rear arm have the brackets already welded in.And we set up the ride height of diff ect. But now as there is no adj in rear end we have to move the angle of the motor up to match the rear . the rear is 2 deg and the most we can get from the engine is 5 deg the gearbox crossmember is about to hit & the motor looks like its going to touch the rack if we go anymore?? Im running 350 with turbo 700. here are some pics to show |
03-07-2013, 10:48 AM | #10 |
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Location: Winchester Oregon, formerly Vancouver BC
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
That does seem awfully close. I have no experience with the rack but your motor and trans does seem way to high. Is the rack the reason why the motor has to sit so high. I am thinking you need to lower the rack and get the motor back to stock position or you are going to have firewall issues also.
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03-07-2013, 05:30 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Rochester, KENT
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Subscribed.... simple as that.
Neat truck.
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MY BUILD LINK: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...585901]Redneck Express - 1966 C10 Short Fleetside MY USA ROADTRIPS http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/...2018-humdinger IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM MATE. |
03-08-2013, 08:15 AM | #12 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Can anyone else tell me what angles they are running the driveshafts
Spoke to Nate today and he said best is 5 at trans 2 at carrier bearing which will need to be raised and the diff should be zero. After some adjustment we have the diff at zero ( moved up the lower control arms a notch ) Chocked the carrier bearing but now the shaft it way to height if we use that measurement the carrier bearing will need to be 3" high in the crossmember and the shaft is close to it. Plus found out the billet carrier bearing I bought is to small and a standard one in Australia is $120 lol dam. Seeing it is nessasary to Get the 2 price tailshaft cut up I might try and use a different centre or a tailshaft of another car so I can use the 1.18" (30mm) I'd bearing which seems to be more available shaft size than 1.3"(35mm) Posted via Mobile Device |
03-10-2013, 08:29 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
So have the rear on hold until i can sort out how the tailshaft has to go but meanwhile we found that the power steer pump has crushed the power steer lines on rack when moving the box up for aligment its not bad enough for it to leak (i hope) but bent them both
So there is obviously an issue in where it mounts so we had to modify the bracket to raise the pump enough to fit the Borgeson lines that come with all the porterbuilt stuff. But as we tried to put them on there is no way i can see how it will line up, if the fitting that goes on the rack was 180 it would be perfect. We can get the other hose to fit just not sure to run it in front of the motor or behind closer to exhaust . Have to get different headers as these ones are in the way to much anyone know any good headers preferably in stainless steel that will have enough clearance for steering shaft ? Seems like i will have to get a the other hose made up which is annoying as i thought it was designed the to fit. Anyone had issues with these Borgeson hoses not fitting on mustang II rack? pump touching rack lines damaged Modified bracket Which way should i put the hose ( will cut to length don't worry Or this way might be to hot close to exhaust ? Header tips? Borgeson Hose 180 out This is the line that was on it, will have to get a shop to change fitting for it to fit but the length is ok, not sure if internal diameter will affect the rack?? but if the end fitting are the same as other hose should be ok? |
03-31-2013, 06:55 PM | #14 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Getting the old wood out
Just before i got the tailshaft made up i decided to look for a LS1 thought may swell do it now while its apart. Found one out of a Holden VU SS Ute Quick pic of my drift car out on the weekend (lots of fun) |
03-31-2013, 07:35 PM | #15 |
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Location: Smithfield rhode island
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Looking good man. Drifting looks like a lot of fun! Wish there were tracks around here....then again maybe not because I'd be out drifting all the time instead of working on my truck lol
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My frame Layin 63 short bed project http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551353 |
10-06-2013, 09:34 PM | #16 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Been off the grid for a while as i wanted to make the rear quite detailed and useable and gave the truck to a mate to do some fab work as it was getting out of our league
I want to have a wood bed but have it so it can lift up and use the space undnerneath while adding tubs |
10-06-2013, 09:38 PM | #17 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
I am currently looking for what rear taillights to use as in oz we cant have brake light as blinkers and have many other ADR rules to comply with so its very hard to try and fins something that doesn't look to out of place that has what i need I like the look of the cadialiac tail lights but 1 they have been done s many times and 2 i have only seen one on the net that said it had amber blinkers and a reverse light but it didn't have much info on it and was very expensive Any suggestions ? |
10-06-2013, 09:41 PM | #18 |
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
I am also going to have the sides of the tray smooth with sheet metal, and weld up the rear tailgate put a 100l tank up towards the cab and the air ride system behind that .
That will all be accessible when the wooded lifts up |
10-06-2013, 10:03 PM | #19 |
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Location: Sherbrooke, Quebec
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Very cool build! I really like what you've done to the bed!
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10-07-2013, 05:56 AM | #20 |
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Location: cleawater florida
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
truck is looking good.that thing sure lays low.sweet!can you use the 66 back up lights for turn signals?maybe figure a way to put a small led in it for reverse lighting?
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10-07-2013, 05:57 PM | #21 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 2,425
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
These days changing the color of a tail light is pretty simplistic if the lens color it white or clear.
You can start by installing an amber bulb, either incandescent or LED. Or there are colored clear coats for the lenses that can be obtained in many colors. I just changed the color of my cyclops light from white/red/white to all red across. Now I have turn signals up there, and a brake light between them. I will have to remember to snap a photo of the product I used for you (as an example) I like your build... I really like how much fun you are having with it !!
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Michael McMurphy My 66 Stepside My 64 Tow Truck My 66 Tempest Table Of Contents Added to Page1 |
10-08-2013, 12:12 AM | #22 |
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 88
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
I thought the '64's pre-dated ADR's so you don't have to change how the tail lights are set up.
I'm still waiting on parts to arrive from the US but will be trying to get my 64 registered in Victoria soon. |
10-08-2013, 11:40 PM | #23 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Thanks guys for the compliments and feedback
Mark K - are u talking about the round light that goes underneath from original , if so i was thinking that but would am trying to find a different way as it looks better with out the circle under it, cheers McMurphy - Im hearing ya about changing the globe and lens colour but i don't think a clear one on the truck would suit it? i don't think i have seen one yet. With the lens coating that won't pass here in oz I bought the led taillights from brother or lmc but they use all less for brake and blinker and the lens is all red Aus64c10 - if you are not modifying the truck and getting it engineered then yeah you don't have to worry but as i have modified nearly everything now there is no chance and would rather do i now then get defected then have to fix it once its painted. if you do get it engineered they go crazy e.g.: collapsable steering column, boxed chassis on notch, get welds tested from suspension components from the US the list goes on . |
10-09-2013, 01:19 AM | #24 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 88
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
My truck needs engineered for a few things like disc rotors on the front but nothing major so it shouldn't be too hard for me. I just have silly things like mis-matched rotors to sort out first. I'm tempted to do more modifications but as you mention you really have to do it properly or not at all.
Would you add lights to the rollpan or replace the existing lights? It would be a shame to have to touch up the paint as metallic's can be so hard to colour match. |
10-10-2013, 05:07 AM | #25 |
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Location: Sydney,N.S.W
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Re: Gary's 64 build (Australia)
Yeah hopefully you should be ok, got to watch out for the snow ball effect ya start to do a few mods next thing ya know ya pulling the thing down to nothing lol
thinking changing the whole lights as we are going to be making the whole rear again and only keeping the number plate surround as we are going to try sand follow the sides around the back Gona get it re spayed again so it won't matter . got it done in L.A when i was there with the truck but they put the paint on thin and i don't like it. Was trying to save money by not doing it here in oz as its expensive but doing it twice now , oh well going to have a white rood this time too |
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