My lights are gone... Help please.

[3/4ton72heavychevy]

I've got a 72 chevy c20, and for the past few days my truck has been taking 4 or 5 seconds of cranking before it will start. The radio will flash on and off while the truck is idleing, but will stay on fine when I am driving. Sounded like the battery going bad to me. Until last night. I start the truck and my headlights come one, but my interior light, dash lights, and taillights will not turn on. Even when I am driving.

Any ideas on what the issue is? bad fuse maybe? any help is appreciated.

[Scott>72-GMC]

Grounds can always be an issue little sandpaper usually helps
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[b.eddy's72]

I second the grounds. Also check the wires on the back of the alt and the plug on the regulator if it still has the external one

[piecesparts]

I would get a test probe and follow out the different circuits for power and see if they are energized. If that is true, then I would support the ground discussion. Something is definitely loose and it is giving you sparodic results. Start at your battery and check all of you connections from it. That would include the power cable from the battery to the solenoid on your starter. If it is loose, then you would have the results that you speak of. I had a Pontiac GTo that did just what yousaid and it was a loose battery cable

[cdowns]

with electrical problems here is a hint// lookin and staring at a connection with a squint and a stern look does no good// taking the connection apart and cleaning that connection helps electricity flow

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by cdowns

with electrical problems here is a hint// lookin and staring at a connection with a squint and a stern look does no good// taking the connection apart and cleaning that connection helps electricity flow

comeon that works sometimes

[dapperg]

Glad I found this post. Sounds like I have a similar issue. I'm still troubleshooting it. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=569212

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by cdowns

with electrical problems here is a hint// lookin and staring at a connection with a squint and a stern look does no good// taking the connection apart and cleaning that connection helps electricity flow

Leave it to cdowns...

I agree with above re. grounds also. Road grime and rust on mounting bolts no longer have path to battery negative. After you check the wiring, go to the parts store and pick up a handful of ground straps. Place them so that the truck components (cab, frame, radiator support, engine) make a clean, complete circuit back to battery.

[3/4ton72heavychevy]

I've gone over and over it all and seems like theyre all good. And the odd thing, my reverse lights and my turn signals still work. My only other thought is that monday night, I replaced my tailgate and rear bumper since I had them off to paint the bed a while back. maybe I messed something up back by the lights when I did that. We shall see.

[dapperg]

Originally Posted by 3/4ton72heavychevy

I've gone over and over it all and seems like theyre all good. And the odd thing, my reverse lights and my turn signals still work. My only other thought is that monday night, I replaced my tailgate and rear bumper since I had them off to paint the bed a while back. maybe I messed something up back by the lights when I did that. We shall see.

Yeah my occured after I was messing with my ignition. My signals and inside floor light works but my bed light and dash lights are out totally.

[3/4ton72heavychevy]

Twas a couple blown fuses, thanks yall.

[dapperg]

Originally Posted by 3/4ton72heavychevy

Twas a couple blown fuses, thanks yall.

Mine was ground wires under the hood.. glad I read this post, thanks!
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[buckskins4ever]

mine did similar...I can tell you that since a new light switch for our trucks is like $20 it is worth its weight in gold to replace. Found a short in the switch itself