Kicks for my Blazer

[tubbedII]

I always wanted to build my own kicks for my front components and even started on a set. I went with the typical tear drop design that you see both on this board and almost every where else in "how to" sites/videos on building a set of kicks. Once I got it wrapped in the felt and held it up to the door, I thought it just looked a little too out of place for my blazer since it's pretty stock on the inside. I turned to my friend who is an installer for a local audio shop and I couldn't be happier that I did.

Given the reasons I didn't like the kicks I started, he said simple would be better in this case while giving it more of stock appearance. He just took the shape of the kick panel and raised off the back to allow room for the speaker to be installed. The back template I gave him did not cover the vent hole, but I said don't worry about the handle to open and close as I can try to figure that out later...for now, I might just tape them closed in case the wind forces them open.

[tubbedII]

From the 2nd pick above, the bottom plate is what the speaker mounts on, and there's a top plate that will go ontop of the mounted speaker making the raised area once again flush. He used a rabbit bit in order to allow the top plate to mount over the speaker while covering the screws for a cleaner look as well.

I'm running the metal door panels in my blazer, and to incorporate a more stock apperance he ran horizontal bevels across the face of it that match the panels.

[tubbedII]

Then it was just a matter of wrapping the felt, glass'in it up to get ready for the finishing wrap.

I had bought some vinyl that matched my seats a while back because it was on a crazy sale and gave it to him to use. He said it wasn't that stretchy but could make it work. As you can see in the last pic, getting that side to cover wasn't possible, but it's along the floor and not visible so it's no big deal.

The other really cool thing he did was make a screen for the 6.5" speaker was pressurized to give it a dome look rather than just flat.

[tubbedII]

He made these for my 6.5" component Polk Audio MMs. If you see, they don't angle towards the passengers like most kicks, and based on his recommendation of the fact that I'm not running a top and not trying to win sound competions with it, the flat look along with the design he came up with will simply just look better and I probably wouldn't be able to tell much of a difference if the speakers were tilted towards my head. Also, I did have to lose both my dimmer switch (which I now just have laying over my steering column and can flip it with my finger if needed) and parking brake assembly (which all the cabling was missing from my blazer anyways).

I don't have any pics of them mounted, but he's supposed to be bringing them by tonight for that. I'll be sure to get some installed pics and post those once I do!

PS, did I say I'm pumped about them yet?...I think they came out pretty damn awesome and can't wait to see them installed.

[tommyd241]

Those came out really nice!

[jimmydean]

Damn, nice work.

[motornut]

yup nice they sure look pro

[tubbedII]

Finally got them installed...

This is my 1st set of component speakers ever, and they are installed in a very solid structure, so just those 2 things alone they are the best sounding speakers I've ever owned. I've got my amp at about 50% right now trying to let them break in, but they still play very loud and crisp. The mid bass on them are the best I've ever had in a set of 6.5's as I can actually feel the kick of the drums in my chest. I've read most people setting the x-over to -3, but I put mine to 0...it's either the placement/angle of them or I just prefer a brighter high. Overall, I'm more than pleased, but still can't wait to get started on the rear panels and the subwoofer enclosure...just need more time and $$$...ha

[jimmydean]

Very nice!

[SamMargritz00]

very clean! good work.

[tubbedII]

Thanks guys...I wish it was me who did the work, but at the same time I'm really glad I called in for help since they came out so well. I'm hoping to be able to do my own rear panels and keep the "theme" going with them as well...just have to get a plunging router and I think I can handle it on my own.

The real issue is going to be the sub design. I'm doing 3 12's in a downfiring ported enclosure with the vents also facing down. The top of the enclosure will come all the way to the top of the bed rails and will go from the back of the rear bench to the tailgate. I don't want it to just be a flat solid piece, but also don't want it to be "too much". It's going to be wrapped in the same vinyl...any suggestions?

[utee05]

Did it take much to get used to having the speakers in the kick panel area? Meaning did your left foot feel weird when they were finally installed while driving?

I have been trying to gather ideas on kick panels for my truck and these look awesome. Nice job and liked the way they turned out.

[tubbedII]

Actually, not at all...I've been driving it as much as I can as well. I've never kicked it or even brushed my foot against it either. It's been about 2 weeks of them installed and 2 tanks of gas...

The only downfall is that I kind of have more time in the drivers seat in the past 2 weeks than I do the entire 3 years I've owned the blazer, so it's not like I was used to the area it's taking up. I'll try to get a pic of my feet in it posted up soon...if not tonight, so you can see the area I'm working with.

[utee05]

Looking over your pics. What did you use as your back plate for the kick panels? I'm trying to figure out what to use for mine, either wood or something else.

[jimmydean]

I used 1/4" MDF. I have also made some backless, but you have to be careful with that.

[tubbedII]

I don't know the actual thickness of the mdf used, but it seemed thicker than 1/4". I think it was either 3/8 or 1/2 (don't know if they make a 3/8 mdf). The originals I was making were out of 1/8" panel board...and I thought it was a little too flimsy. I'd use 1/4" as the thinnest.

The nice part about a thick back plate for me is that I only have 1 sheet metal screw holding the kick on. Grant it there's a layer of "dyno-mat" and sound deadening foam between the pod and kick panel, but I have no issues of rattle or movement with just that one screw holding it place.

[utee05]

I would not want to do backless. I would want a backing of MDF or something similar.

[hotrodhomi]

I need these. I can't wait to check it out.

[tubbedII]

He gave me the templates if you want to make a set!
Posted via Mobile Device

[utee05]

Yes that would be very helpful. Saves me one step. Thanks again.

BTW, do you know how much resin you used? This will be my first glass project.

[tubbedII]

I'll trace them out and make a template with measurements and post it. I'd do the backing plate, but really, you'd probably want to do your own...he used my originals that didn't line up too well. I didn't care about that part too much because my original design had the speaker up higher to block the view of the vent...if you look close, it doesn't follow the vent hole too well, but it does save room for the tab on the open/close rod.

As for the resin, I didn't watch him make it. He brought them by my house with just the felt on it and he used a pretty heavy felt. He said he only gave it one good coat of resin and then a layer of glass filler to sand smooth for a little more added strength, but these things are solid. I don't think you'd need a whole gallon of resin for this task, but I too have never worked with it.

[utee05]

The backplate would still be helpful. I see that it does not line up perfectly but it will be hard to see that it doesn't line up well.

[jimmydean]

Ok, mine isn't actually MDF, it's Medite. It's better than MDF for thiner stuff.