Yet another Ignition Wiring/HEI question

[62lwbc10]

Hello All, I just completely rewired my 58 using original style harnesses. One issue Im having involves the ignition wiring. I have HEI and on the advice of others on this board, I simply ran one wire (10 gauge) from the IGN 1 terminal of the ignition switch to the HEI. I have no connections to the IGN 2 terminal of the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, full 12 volts is going to the HEI. THe issue is the started is cranking just fine when I turn the key, but the motor is not starting. THe weird thing is it starts (coughs to life) when I stop cranking and the key is back in the ON position. It almost seems that power is not getting to the HEI while cranking, but power is getting to the HEI when I stop cranking and the key is back on the ON position. Can someone please let me know where I went wrong? Is it possible the HEI is not getting power while the starter motor is cranking? If so, how do I remedy this? WHat is the purpose of the IGN 2 terminal on the ignition switch? Do I need to run additional wires?

[mr48chev]

You betchum RedRyder that is what is happening. That ignition switch is set up so that it works with the resistor bypass on the starter.

The simple thing would be just run a wire up from the resistor bypass pole on the starter to the ten gauge wire going to the HEI and be done with it.

The sneaky thing would be to put heavy duty push button switch under the dash that you had hooked from a direct battery (not keyed) 12V source to the 10 gauge wire going to the HEI. That way you would have to push the pushbutton when you cranked the engine to have the Hei fire. That would make it a both hands operation to start the truck and once you did it three times it would be an automatic operation. Right hand on the key, left hand hitting the button and away you go. It would also help prevent accidental starts by anyone sitting in the truck that might get their small fingers interested in the key and turning it.

[1project2many]

Lately I've been getting plenty of starters without the bypass terminal on the solenoid. The small gear reduction types usually come through this way.

You could also run a second wire from Ign2 through a large diode to the HEI module. You cannot run a second wire without a diode because the starter will engage whenever the ignition is switched on.

Ign1------------
                |
                |-----------HEI BAT
                |
Ign2---->|------
        Diode

[62lwbc10]

Hey thanks for the advice! Yes, its an original type ignition switch and the harness also was meant for the ignition resistor. I just didnt used the two wires that go to the resistor at all and just had a 10 gauge wire from IGN 1 to the HEI. Using a test light, I was able to see that IGN 1 was not providing 12V to the HEI while cranking but IGN 2 is the opposite (no juice when IGN is in ON position, but full 12v when cranking the starter).. I just ran a jumper from IGN 2 to IGN 1 on the ignition switch and she fired right up.

[1project2many]

You're lucky with that jumper. Not all switches are have separate circuits for IGN and the starter circuit.

[mr48chev]

Well done and a simple solution.

[62lwbc10]

A very simple solution, yes. The switch is the factory switch for a 58-59 Apache. They actually use the same switch for the Corvette. works like a charm now. THanks for the valuable input.