292 Don't Wanna Run - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Codez67Chevy · 03-29-2013, 10:53 PM

So got a problem. I have a 292 and she doesn't wanna run. So far I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, distributor, coil, battery, and rebuilt my carb. Anyone out there that might have had the same problem?

airdale94 · 03-29-2013, 11:14 PM

Fuel pump? You need to check some things before you start changing parts. I usually check spark first. Start with what's easiest for you. Then fuel. If you got both of those verify timing. Bring #1 piston to TDC on compression stroke and check position of rotor, pull dist. cap. It should be on #1. Did you just fill up the tank. You might have got some bad gas. Smell it.

Codez67Chevy · 03-29-2013, 11:20 PM

Fairly new fuel pump. And the gas is fresh. It could very well be timming.
Posted via Mobile Device

factorystock · 03-30-2013, 02:06 AM

What is the history of vehicle?, was it sitting for a long time or recently running? Look at the ignition system closesly, always use new points ( adjusted with right gap) and new a condensor to complete the tune up. These engines are very durable, you don't have to worry about timing chains slipping, these engines have timing gears and rarely fail.

Codez67Chevy · 03-30-2013, 02:34 AM

Recently running. I've had the truck over 8 years, and proud to say that its my first vehicle. But it's never been street legal and it just sits. I do start it and run it every once in a while, cuz I've never had the money to put into it . So lately I've been fixing things here and there and now I can't get it to run. Its got fuel pressure and basicly replaced the whole ignition system and still won't fire up.
Posted via Mobile Device

SS Tim · 03-30-2013, 04:55 AM

Does it start and die?
Just crank with no hope?
Backfire or pop?
Did you check for spark before your tore into it and replaced everything?
Did you ever check for power at the coil? Run and cranking?
How are you setting timing and point gap?
Do you have a dwell meter?
Was the condensor replaced?
Spark plug wires in the correct firing order?
Do you have a factory service manual?

Wrenchbender Ret · 03-30-2013, 09:44 AM

OK first lets see if you are getting spark. remove the coil high tention wire from the dist. Hold it near the engine & have someone crank it over, or use a jumper wire. You should have spark jumping from the wire to ground. If thats ok look down the carb throat & work the throttle linkage. You should see a squirt of gas each time. If not pour a little gas down the carb throat & try to start it If it starts then You have a fuel delivery problem. If you have no spark then you have a problem with the points or posibly current from the ign. switch or resister.

54blackhornet · 03-30-2013, 11:27 AM

I went to move my 69 GMC that has a 292 yesterday , started on first try but then it just stopped ? Now I have same problem ? 12v at coil , plenty of fuel but no spark at plugs ? What should I check next ?
Posted via Mobile Device

Codez67Chevy · 03-30-2013, 02:50 PM

Well found out that my carb is a piece of crap. I need a new one. I've got really good spark and good fuel pressure. So now anyone know of a good brand for a single barrel?

airdale94 · 03-30-2013, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

I went to move my 69 GMC that has a 292 yesterday , started on first try but then it just stopped ? Now I have same problem ? 12v at coil , plenty of fuel but no spark at plugs ? What should I check next ?
Posted via Mobile Device

Dwell (points and condensor).

airdale94 · 03-30-2013, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by factorystock

What is the history of vehicle?, was it sitting for a long time or recently running? Look at the ignition system closesly, always use new points ( adjusted with right gap) and new a condensor to complete the tune up. These engines are very durable, you don't have to worry about timing chains slipping, these engines have timing gears and rarely fail.

Good call on the timing gears. I diddn't realize they don't have chains.

pritch · 03-30-2013, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codez67Chevy

Well found out that my carb is a piece of crap. I need a new one. I've got really good spark and good fuel pressure. So now anyone know of a good brand for a single barrel?

What carb do you have? Either a Monojet or a Model B. Either way, they are simple to rebuild, and a kit is like 25 bucks at the most.

Chevydude56 · 03-30-2013, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codez67Chevy

Well found out that my carb is a piece of crap. I need a new one. I've got really good spark and good fuel pressure. So now anyone know of a good brand for a single barrel?

Did you try pouring a little gas down the carb? If it starts , then it could be the carb. Does the choke work?

RANDY COX · 03-31-2013, 08:20 AM

Mmm put some gas in it,Mmm fix me some mustard biscuits Mmm.Sorry couldn't resist.
Mmm.

Codez67Chevy · 03-31-2013, 01:32 PM

Ill get ya'll some pics today and see if I can find some numbers on this thing.

Codez67Chevy · 03-31-2013, 06:52 PM

here are some pics.
Name: 2013-03-30_16-13-56_430.jpg
Views: 224
Size: 38.9 KB

Name: 2013-03-30_16-14-28_11.jpg
Views: 308
Size: 42.1 KB

Name: 2013-03-31_15-28-05_885.jpg
Views: 238
Size: 33.0 KB

Name: 2013-03-31_15-28-18_107.jpg
Views: 250
Size: 31.5 KB

RANDY COX · 03-31-2013, 08:41 PM

Just wondering if there should be an insulator under the carb,not just a gasket but an insulator,there's one on my 48 car and one on my 258 77 jeep cj,the one on the jeep is plastic,I think it's there to keep the base of carb from getting too hot...there prolly 3/4" thick...

pritch · 03-31-2013, 10:41 PM

OK. That's a Rochester Model B. The B means that it is a manual choke. They are incredibly simple to rebuild. Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=V2AINKEauVM

You will be told that it is impossible to ID which model Rochester you have with out the little metal tag. While that may or may not be true, it don't matter. There are only 2 kits to chose from and the only difference in the kits is the accelerator pump. You will need to take the top of the carb off to see which kind you have. On one kind, the accelerator pump shaft stays round it's entire length. On the other type, the shaft is round at first, close to the cup, but then is flattens out. This has the flattened out one:

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...-Kit_p_57.html

And this is the round one:

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...mp_p_1075.html

Once you know which type you have, ask to see both kits that will be listed and see which has your type. The kits come with an assortment of gaskets, balls and springs, pretty much so it's the same kit for Model B or BC or BV, but it has to have the same accelerator pump.

Wrenchbender Ret · 04-01-2013, 09:42 AM

That carb has a filter behind the big nut that the fuel line goes in. It could be pluged up.

GRX · 04-01-2013, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

Mmm put some gas in it,Mmm fix me some mustard biscuits Mmm.Sorry couldn't resist.
Mmm.

What'cha doin' with that lawn mower blade Karl?

But yeah, check the filter where the fuel line attaches to the carb like Wrenchbender said.

03-29-2013, 11:14 PM	#2
airdale94 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Topeka,KS Posts: 778	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Fuel pump? You need to check some things before you start changing parts. I usually check spark first. Start with what's easiest for you. Then fuel. If you got both of those verify timing. Bring #1 piston to TDC on compression stroke and check position of rotor, pull dist. cap. It should be on #1. Did you just fill up the tank. You might have got some bad gas. Smell it. __________________ 68' C20. 283CI w/55CC 305HO heads, NP435 Close Ratio, Corp. 14 bolt FF 3.21, 75' front end swap (everything but the X-member). Last edited by airdale94; 03-29-2013 at 11:14 PM. Reason: add

03-29-2013, 11:20 PM	#3
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Fairly new fuel pump. And the gas is fresh. It could very well be timming. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-30-2013, 02:06 AM	#4
factorystock Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: west coast Posts: 3,361	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run What is the history of vehicle?, was it sitting for a long time or recently running? Look at the ignition system closesly, always use new points ( adjusted with right gap) and new a condensor to complete the tune up. These engines are very durable, you don't have to worry about timing chains slipping, these engines have timing gears and rarely fail.

03-30-2013, 02:34 AM	#5
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Recently running. I've had the truck over 8 years, and proud to say that its my first vehicle. But it's never been street legal and it just sits. I do start it and run it every once in a while, cuz I've never had the money to put into it . So lately I've been fixing things here and there and now I can't get it to run. Its got fuel pressure and basicly replaced the whole ignition system and still won't fire up. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-30-2013, 04:55 AM	#6
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,503	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Does it start and die? Just crank with no hope? Backfire or pop? Did you check for spark before your tore into it and replaced everything? Did you ever check for power at the coil? Run and cranking? How are you setting timing and point gap? Do you have a dwell meter? Was the condensor replaced? Spark plug wires in the correct firing order? Do you have a factory service manual? __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

03-29-2013, 10:53 PM	#1
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	292 Don't Wanna Run So got a problem. I have a 292 and she doesn't wanna run. So far I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, distributor, coil, battery, and rebuilt my carb. Anyone out there that might have had the same problem? __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-30-2013, 09:44 AM	#7
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,203	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run OK first lets see if you are getting spark. remove the coil high tention wire from the dist. Hold it near the engine & have someone crank it over, or use a jumper wire. You should have spark jumping from the wire to ground. If thats ok look down the carb throat & work the throttle linkage. You should see a squirt of gas each time. If not pour a little gas down the carb throat & try to start it If it starts then You have a fuel delivery problem. If you have no spark then you have a problem with the points or posibly current from the ign. switch or resister.

03-30-2013, 11:27 AM	#8
54blackhornet Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Eastern Oregon Posts: 2,300	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run I went to move my 69 GMC that has a 292 yesterday , started on first try but then it just stopped ? Now I have same problem ? 12v at coil , plenty of fuel but no spark at plugs ? What should I check next ? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 71 C-20 07 Magnum RT AWD

03-30-2013, 02:50 PM	#9
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Well found out that my carb is a piece of crap. I need a new one. I've got really good spark and good fuel pressure. So now anyone know of a good brand for a single barrel? __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-31-2013, 08:20 AM	#14
RANDY COX Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: RADFORD, VA Posts: 2,651	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Mmm put some gas in it,Mmm fix me some mustard biscuits Mmm.Sorry couldn't resist. Mmm. __________________ 1964 BBC 402 4x4

03-31-2013, 01:32 PM	#15
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Ill get ya'll some pics today and see if I can find some numbers on this thing. __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-31-2013, 06:52 PM	#16
Codez67Chevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Spanish Fork Ut Posts: 370	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run here are some pics. __________________ " Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B

03-31-2013, 08:41 PM	#17
RANDY COX Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: RADFORD, VA Posts: 2,651	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run Just wondering if there should be an insulator under the carb,not just a gasket but an insulator,there's one on my 48 car and one on my 258 77 jeep cj,the one on the jeep is plastic,I think it's there to keep the base of carb from getting too hot...there prolly 3/4" thick... __________________ 1964 BBC 402 4x4

03-31-2013, 10:41 PM	#18
pritch Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hoytsville, Utah Posts: 3,365	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run OK. That's a Rochester Model B. The B means that it is a manual choke. They are incredibly simple to rebuild. Here's a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=V2AINKEauVM You will be told that it is impossible to ID which model Rochester you have with out the little metal tag. While that may or may not be true, it don't matter. There are only 2 kits to chose from and the only difference in the kits is the accelerator pump. You will need to take the top of the carb off to see which kind you have. On one kind, the accelerator pump shaft stays round it's entire length. On the other type, the shaft is round at first, close to the cup, but then is flattens out. This has the flattened out one: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...-Kit_p_57.html And this is the round one: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...mp_p_1075.html Once you know which type you have, ask to see both kits that will be listed and see which has your type. The kits come with an assortment of gaskets, balls and springs, pretty much so it's the same kit for Model B or BC or BV, but it has to have the same accelerator pump. __________________ '68 Panel Project Boogie Chillin' '68 C-10 Ol' Green

04-01-2013, 09:42 AM	#19
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,203	Re: 292 Don't Wanna Run That carb has a filter behind the big nut that the fuel line goes in. It could be pluged up.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.