Need some help please guys - My 66 isn't starting...

[Neatbeard]

Please bear with me as i'm a newbie to C10's and american motors in general (but not classic cars a whole previously being a VW man).

I haven't had my truck long and the previous owner never had any problems, and the last time I started it up I didn't either.... all ive done is spray some WD40 around over the battery terminals and wire connections in the engine bay to help in our damp climate here in the UK. But for some reason the truck won't start now??

I don't get a 'click' from the starter motor, nothing...?

The dash lights all come on as they should but when you turn the ignition key to the next 'stop' where it should fire up nothing...?

The compressor for my air bags doesn't fire into life either (its on the ignition circuit)...?

I've put my jumper/starter/portable power pack on thinking it might be the battery is discharged but no....still nothing??

I don't get it all i've done is spray the WD40 which i've done on countless cars i've owned before and i've NEVER had this happen before?

Any ideas guys am i missing something obvious? This is doing my head in as i've not had the truck very long and I haven't had a chance to cruise in it properly yet.

[hyatt]

check voltage at the posts with cables removed Should be 12v or over if ok clean and reinstall cables if still no start take a test light and see if purple wire at base of column on neutral switch inside is hot when in crank position on both terminals If not switch is bad or misadjusted Make sure shifter is in park (if automatic) If purple wire is hot on both sides of switch starter is probally bad

[Neatbeard]

I forgot to say that the truck is a manual (3 on the tree), inline 6 Hi Torque 250 (later '72 engine) with HEI.

Thanks.

[Lawrence]

How big is your jumper pack? Normal UK ones are teeny. Have you tried jumping it off another car?
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[Rich 5150 69]

Check battery cable condition, they may look good but corroded insde the battery lugs especially if they are molded ends, clean all grounds to the block and frame...

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

Check battery cable condition, they may look good but corroded insde the battery lugs especially if they are molded ends, clean all grounds to the block and frame...

+1 Battery cables can seem fine around the lead posts of the battery but if you take them off and wire wheel them really good you might find that they weren't connecting properly. Then tighten them down really well. If that works I'll take an order of bubble and squeak to go.

[gofastnut]

Main power wire from + side of battery to Horn Relay buss bar and connections look OK? That's where everything gets it power from.

[Rufton]

Always a good idea to clean all wire terminals to starter and battery.
In the day the ground wire to engine would loose contact and the battery terminals would loose contact. I cleaned all terminals and applied axle grease many years ago and have had no more problems.

I suggest learning how to hot wire your truck. It is very useful for trouble shooting and maintenance.

On 60's GM and Ford's I've worked on, the starter can be operated by jumping +12 VDC to "S" terminal on solenoid. Of course safety first and don't forget to put in neutral.

[Rich 5150 69]

Are you still running the stock firewall harness plug, unplug it and use cr cleaner, use a spray bottle mix 50/50 with water let sit for a while use along bristle brush to get inside, rinse it out and spray with dw-40, replace plug, mine was corroded and would not make contact.

[tincan1966]

Do you have power to the ignition switch in the start position?
Obviously you have power to the switch, or the dash lights wouldn't light up. In any case, check for 12V+ usinf a volt meter on the red wire at the ignition switch. Should have power whether key is on or off.

Using a volt meter, or at least a test light, check for 12V+ on the orange and brown wires at the ignition switch with the key "on". If that is good, then rotate key to "start" and check for 12V on the purple wire. If either of these tests fail, there's a possibility you may have a bad ignition switch.

I prefer to use a volt meter as opposed to a test light, because most cheap test lights will light up on as little as 6 volts- which isn't enough to make any 12V accessory work.

Get a copy of the wire diagram(there are several in the forums) and follow the circuits from the switch .

There is a plug in the firewall, near the heater(passenger side) that has the purple wire to the starter in it.

Knowing where to start is the key to repairing. I wouldn't start taking a bunch of things apart, until you know what works, what doesn't and where the problem starts.

[Neatbeard]

I forgot to update this. I did a bit of work on the truck last night when i got home from work and did the old 'spanner over the starter and solenoid' trick and on the the second try it whirred into life.

I got in pumped the pedal a few times (as she's been sitting) and hey presto she fired right up and ticked over lovely! Im a happy man again, that and the fact that my gorgeous better half has been buying me presents for the truck.

Thanks again for your input and suggestions its appreciated.

[1963c-10]

Sounds to me like the starter or selonoid

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by Neatbeard

I forgot to update this. I did a bit of work on the truck last night when i got home from work and did the old 'spanner over the starter and solenoid' trick and on the the second try it whirred into life.

I got in pumped the pedal a few times (as she's been sitting) and hey presto she fired right up and ticked over lovely! Im a happy man again, that and the fact that my gorgeous better half has been buying me presents for the truck.

Thanks again for your input and suggestions its appreciated.

Good.
What was the problem?
No +12 VDC to "S" solenoid post w/ key in start position?
Bad Ignition switch or dirty terminals?