Rally wheel / 2.5 spindle clearance (unhappy camper)

[LEEVON]

Just finished up with McGaughy's 2.5" drop spindles and a single coil cut on my '87. I was expecting to have to clear the lower control arm lip, but to my surprise the tie rod end hits the wheel. These are standard 15x8 rally wheels, with 4.25" backspacing and the boot is tight enough the wheel won't spin freely. No grinding will fix this. I've never had this problem with 2.5 spindles. I guess I'm going to have to get different wheels. That's not so exciting...

As an added bonus the lower ball joint taper on one of the spindles was not complete and I had to drill it out myself. This drop has been a real pain and I've done a bunch of them.

Anybody else have tie rod clearance issues?

[Jonboy]

Will a 1/4" spacer fix it?

[LEEVON]

Probably, that was my first thought but I have reservations about wheel spacers. I have a set of 88-98 rally wheels that are 7" wide, but they're ugly.

[Hook0215]

Same thing happened to me. Forced me to buy wheels before I wanted to.....
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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Probably, that was my first thought but I have reservations about wheel spacers. I have a set of 88-98 rally wheels that are 7" wide, but they're ugly.

And probably have close to the same backspacing.
I would call McGaughy's.

I always use Belltech Spindles on 73-87 trucks.
Belltech spindles are cast with the tie rod arm moved in slightly, to help eliminate the contact with the rim.
(It also makes your wheels "toed out" after installation)

[naphtali5725]

Originally Posted by lolife99

And probably have close to the same backspacing.
I would call McGaughy's.

I always use Belltech Spindles on 73-87 trucks.
Belltech spindles are cast with the tie rod arm moved in slightly, to help eliminate the contact with the rim.
(It also makes your wheels "toed out" after installation)

sheeesh, Belltech's are almost twice as much as Mcgaughy's

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by naphtali5725

sheeesh, Belltech's are almost twice as much as Mcgaughy's

And worth the investment depending on your wheel choice.

Leevon... Would 6.5" van ralleys be an option for you?

[LEEVON]

I've become fairly loyal to McGaughy's in the last couple of years, I think these spindles are top notch but I know they all have little differences in design. I am definitely going to let them know about the ball joint taper and I'll make a suggestion about the tie rod location. Keith, that makes sense on the tie rods, the McG spindles stayed exactly the same width as stock. It would be smart of them to move in just a hair.

Scoti, ideally I would find some 15x7's with the 3 5/8" backspacing, but the van 6.5's might work. I think they're 4" backspacing and the 15x8's are 4 1/4". That 1/4" would make all the difference. There is a set locally that I'm chasing today. Do you have some?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by lolife99

And probably have close to the same backspacing.
I would call McGaughy's.

I always use Belltech Spindles on 73-87 trucks.
Belltech spindles are cast with the tie rod arm moved in slightly, to help eliminate the contact with the rim.
(It also makes your wheels "toed out" after installation)

I just installed a pair of DJM 3 inch spindles ($239 from Summit) and found the same thing. The truck had about 1.5" of toe out once I set it on the ground. I've never seen a set of spindles do it nearly that far. But, it's easy to adjust toe back to spec and the wheel clearance is welcomed.
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[J Knight]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

And worth the investment depending on your wheel choice.

Leevon... Would 6.5" van ralleys be an option for you?

Just a heads up, 6.5in van and 8in truck rallys have the same 4.25in back space.
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[LEEVON]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Just a heads up, 6.5in van and 8in truck rallys have the same 4.25in back space.
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Thanks, I was afraid of that. Hunt is on for some 15x7's! Or I might throw my 88-98 wheels on there temporarily. Of course this would all be easier if I was ready to buy some 20's.

[Tx Firefighter]

Stock steelie wheels with hubcaps are easy and they clear by a mile. It's what all the coolest guys are doing now. Well, me and Yetti, but trends gotta start somewhere.


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[LEEVON]

Kevin, great minds think alike! I've been contemplating that actually. There was a brand new take-off set complete with GMC hub caps for sale. I had somebody photoshop them on to a similar truck in my build thread. Are they 15" or 16" though?

[Tx Firefighter]

Mine are just 15 inch stock wheels. The neat thing is that even with 3 inch drop spindles I had to clearance nothing. Not the spindle or the lower control arm. They fit with much room to spare lock to lock.

My stuff is crap though. Look at Yezzis trucks. He is a rock star at steel wheels and skinny tires.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Just a heads up, 6.5in van and 8in truck rallys have the same 4.25in back space.

Van ralleys are 3.5" mounting pad to tire bead; 4" @ the very outer lip edge.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Stock steelie wheels with hubcaps are easy and they clear by a mile. It's what all the coolest guys are doing now. Well, me and Yetti, but trends gotta start somewhere.

Stock OE steelies are 3 3/8" @ the bead; 3 5/8" @ the very outer lip.

[tony58]

Originally Posted by lolife99

And probably have close to the same backspacing.
I would call McGaughy's.

I always use Belltech Spindles on 73-87 trucks.
Belltech spindles are cast with the tie rod arm moved in slightly, to help eliminate the contact with the rim.
(It also makes your wheels "toed out" after installation)

Moving the tie rod inward will increase the turning radius of the vehicle, considerably. The only real solution is to use the correct back spaced wheels or larger diameter to clear. 1st gen Camaros have the same issue.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by tony58

Moving the tie rod inward will increase the turning radius of the vehicle, considerably. The only real solution is to use the correct back spaced wheels or larger diameter to clear. 1st gen Camaros have the same issue.

I'm trying to follow you on this. But, the steering still goes lock to lock whereas the spindles rotate fully to contact the stops on the control arm. How would the new steering radius be changed ?

I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to figure it out in my head.
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[J Knight]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Van ralleys are 3.5" mounting pad to tire bead; 4" @ the very outer lip edge.


Stock OE steelies are 3 3/8" @ the bead; 3 5/8" @ the very outer lip.

Then there must be more than one option on 6.5in rallies. The ones I have are 4.25in from mounting pad to outer most lip.
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[87squarebody]

I have 3" bell tech spindels on mine with 2" springs and had that issue while the truck was on jack stands with no load on suspension.When you set it on the ground you get the clearance.I have 15x8 rallies did have to trim lca.

[tony58]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm trying to follow you on this. But, the steering still goes lock to lock whereas the spindles rotate fully to contact the stops on the control arm. How would the new steering radius be changed ?

I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to figure it out in my head.
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Depending on the spindle design, most have the stops as part of the arm and all of that gets moved inward. I guess if the stops are located elswhere and were not changed then it would be OK. All that I have seen have stops cast with the arms but this is mainly on cars, maybe the truck spindles are different.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by tony58

Depending on the spindle design, most have the stops as part of the arm and all of that gets moved inward. I guess if the stops are located elswhere and were not changed then it would be OK. All that I have seen have stops cast with the arms but this is mainly on cars, maybe the truck spindles are different.

Trucks have a nub cast into the back of the spindle that conracts a welded on section of the lower control arm.

The reason your post intrigued me was that I once built a lowered truck that seemed to have a much lesser turning radius than the rest I've had. I was trying to recall what combination of control arms and spindles I used on that one.
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[tony58]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Trucks have a nub cast into the back of the spindle that conracts a welded on section of the lower control arm.

The reason your post intrigued me was that I once built a lowered truck that seemed to have a much lesser turning radius than the rest I've had. I was trying to recall what combination of control arms and spindles I used on that one.
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Yea, I went and looked at a 71/72 drop spindle and the stop is on the rear so it shouldn't be an issue...but these spindles are cast iron, not forged steel like originals so cast spindles have to be made thicker/larger then a forged piece to be as strong, the manufactuer needs to make sure they have the cast stop the right length with regards to the thicker spindle, if they just make it the same length as the forged orig it could protrude out farther which will make your turn radius bigger.

[87r10owner]

Hmm this is good........I just put the same spindles on mines with 2" springs (that came out to low up front) and I'm running 6.5s but haven't fully adjusted camber and toe Bc I ordered 1" springs to raise the front. The way mine is sitting right now I have clearance but I'm curious to what will happen with my new springs and alignment.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Then there must be more than one option on 6.5in rallies. The ones I have are 4.25in from mounting pad to outer most lip.
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There are 6.5" van ralleys, 7" truck ralleys, & 8" truck ralleys. The specs just provided came from a 6.5" van ralley sitting in my shop (pics taken this morning). Are you sure you measured a van ralley & not a 7" truck ralley? I know the one I measured is stamped as 6.5".

[mkdesign]

Hi Leevon. It sucks about the clearance issue with your spindles. When i installed my 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton dropped spindles it took me a while to figure out why I got the toe out situation. My Early Classic spindles appear to be engineered for wheel clearace as well. I know that a lot of people don't like the idea of spacers much less adaptors, but I have used them numerous times with no issues. Granted, I am not pushing a ton of horsepower or exposing any substantial driveline shock to them so a spacer may be something to consider on the front. As for steel wheels and hub caps that Tx Firefighter suggests, I'm on board. I sometimes miss the way my truck looked with the factory hucaps, so the thought struck me of making some clips much like a vintage wheel has so I can run my 3/4 caps on a ralley wheel. I've mocked this setup on a Corvette ralley wheel just to see and I kind of like it.