where to get a rally suspension????

[bigwalt]

Does anyone offer a " rally suspension" or a road course suspension for the 72 c10? I'm wanting to make this truck handle as much as possible but I don't want air ride or just a static drop. I've seen these trucks setup for it before but I'm not sure if its a custom suspension they made and or put together or if there's a kit offered.
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[SCOTI]

No Limits, Porterbuilt, & Hotchkis each offers a coil-over 'sport' type front suspension for C10's:

http://www.nolimitparts.com/
http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/?cat=1
http://www.hotchkis.net/

[bigwalt]

Thanks I will look into that
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[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I am starting to do a similar build for my C20, and I am going to start gathering parts here soon. Rally to me is stock height roughly with good suspension, road course is lowered with good suspension, and pre-runner lifted.

My concept is too

Move the lower A-arm forward 1 inch, and get a faster ratio steering box. This improves camber gain, and the feeling of you being connected to the road. I would do this if your suspension needs to be rebuilt or if it has you can just mod the lower A-arm for 3/4 of an inch forward movement. That will get you quite a bit of the way there.

I am going to try C10 springs for more suspension travel vs my HD C20 types. Use stiffer shocks to help control rebound. Coil over shocks would be better here just more expensive. I already have the big sway bar so I will just add PST bushings to it to firm it up.

I am going to run 265/70/16 on factory PYO rims. This keeps the un-sprung weight low enough, but still offers a wide arrangement of tires to choose from. Here I will probably run 4 good street tires most of the time, and a set of AT's when I actually do get to go offroad. Yours being a C10 you'll have to go with a tire no taller the 32" or with a 275 width. Beyond that it won't tuck under corners, or you'll need a bit of a lift to cover it.

My rear suspension won't be to good, but I will remove leafs for softer ride then add a track bar. You should have the truck arm setup, with light duty springs, and stiffer shocks. It would in my mind be an awesome set-up for rally fun. I will mod the stock stuff to see how I like the concept before I commit to spending money on parts I may not need or want.

In the future I plan to shorten my wheel base for tighter corners, but mostly for looks. Then I will add some sort of fuel cell to the truck to control fuel slosh or at least a blazer tank.

[bigwalt]

Well I want it a lower than stock I just don't want it slammed to the ground. I guess road course is more along the lines I'm looking for. But as far as changing the front geometery that's beyond me. I don't trust my fab skills that much lol. Thats why I was looking for a kit. But I definitely want to get rid of the leafs in the back and get a 3 or a 4 link instead. I'm gonna have to do some research on this but in the mean time let me see if I can find the truck I was talking about and I will show you the look going for
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[Bhelton]

I installed a 3/5 drop using Porterbuilt components and the stance looked great...and have it for sale now due to a drop member being in the works
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[bigwalt]

How much
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[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by bigwalt

Well I want it a lower than stock I just don't want it slammed to the ground. I guess road course is more along the lines I'm looking for. But as far as changing the front geometery that's beyond me. I don't trust my fab skills that much lol. Thats why I was looking for a kit. But I definitely want to get rid of the leafs in the back and get a 3 or a 4 link instead. I'm gonna have to do some research on this but in the mean time let me see if I can find the truck I was talking about and I will show you the look going for
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If you have the skill to pull off your lower A-arms you'll be fine with a 4-6 kit or a 3-5 kit.

If you pull the lower A-arm off all you need to do is drill the mounting holes on the A-arm shaft back 3/4 of an inch on center. Most auto shops have a drill press or you could knock around machine shops.

[jimmydean]

While I still want to see the Touring DM and I wish I could have done the C4 DM, this truck is tops for a reason.

[bigwalt]

Definitely like that truck. That's kind of what I want in a nutshell but I definitely want it to be functional and not Just posing the look
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[Bhelton]

Originally Posted by bigwalt

How much
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Search my threads, probably around page 3 in for sale section
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[Bhelton]

Originally Posted by bigwalt

How much
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Search my threads, probably around page 3 in for sale section
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigwalt

Definitely like that truck. That's kind of what I want in a nutshell but I definitely want it to be functional and not Just posing the look
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That truck is definitely functional for a track/course setting. Similar parts from them (No Limits) can be made functional on a street truck as well.

[66shortwide]

Anybody know what size tires no limit runs on that truck?

[bigwalt]

Well I know that truck is I'm just saying I don't want to build my truck to have that look and not have the function of it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 66shortwide

Anybody know what size tires no limit runs on that truck?

I beileve 315-30-18's.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I beileve 315-30-18's.

Actually it was 335-30-18's....

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by bigwalt

Well I know that truck is I'm just saying I don't want to build my truck to have that look and not have the function of it.

Rob runs what he builds and he tends to win a lot. I know Nate's C4 Dropmember was a wicked performer when it was released and I'm sure Nate put the same engineering effort into the Touring DM to make it an awesome choice as well.

It blows me away to see so many new bolt in type solutions for our trucks that can make them handle like no truck was ever designed to do.