2 Questions???

[vycc]

i have a 81 GMC 4X4 and i have 33x12.5 tires on it, i was wondering if i need to upgrade my brakes from stock???

#2.. i want a lift, but i'm broke... my step-dad is a machinist and he suggested that he fab up some metal blocks for the front/back that are large enough to have the u bolts go through them so they won't pop out, would this work???? or should i just stick with my original idea and do a 3" body lift.... all i want is more clearance for the tires, i not going any larger..HELP

[DrMaserati]

Sure it will work, but lift blocks are NOT a good idea for a front axle. Especially if you're talking 3". They're marginal on rear axles.

A 3" body lift is going to involve modifying your steering system. Keep in mind that the steering gear will remain on the frame, and the steering column will move up three inches with the body. It can get expensive to modify it properly. Also when you do a body lift, the bumpers stay on the frame and look kinda odd three inches below where they're supposed to be. But more money will fix that, too. A suspension lift is generally preferable to a body lift.

If you don't mind a stiffer ride, a simple solution might be to find another set of springs and stick in another couple of leaves at each corner, but you probably won't get 3". Then again, you might get close. Only one sure way to find out. Or maybe someone on this board has tried it and will be able to tell us how much lift he got.

[vycc]

what is the highest i could go without modifing my steering??? how stiff would be the ride with 2 or more stock springs added??

[ljbear]

Your brakes, if in good working order, are more than adequate for that tire.

DO NOT PUT BLOCKS ON THE FRONT END!

I think you can safely go 4" without any modifications to the front steering. I have a 4" lift and changed to a drop steering arm. Waste of money. Truck drove like it had a ton of sand in the bed, wandered all over the road. Pulled the arm off and it steers and drives fine again. You will have to make some adjustments to the drag link to center the steering wheel and get full range of steering. If you go over 4" you will need to start looking at a crossover or high steer system.

DO NOT PUT BLOCKS ON THE FRONT END!

LJ

[stlaser]

No blocks on the front dude that is a major no no. You could kill yourself or even worse someone else. Even with holes through the blocks so they won't come out will not stop the front end from becoming unstable under the right conditions. All of us on this board have loved ones mine are nineteen months and two months and I wouldn't want you on the road under those circumstances. Peace and good luck.

[vycc]

that's why i turned to you guys with my questions because i don't want to have something happen to anyone else and/or leave my kids without a father... SO, NO BLOCKS!!!!
What exactly would i have to do to my steering wheel...drag link???? what's that??? would i just have to re-center my wheel. please explain in more detail.....Thanks for your help guys

[DrMaserati]

Originally posted by vycc
What exactly would i have to do to my steering wheel...drag link???? what's that???

That depends on whether you're talking body lift or suspension lift. It also depends on how much lift. You could probably do 2" suspension lift(MAYBE even 3") with nothing more than an adjustment to the drag link. (That's the shaft that connects the pitman arm to the steering arm.) When you get more extreme with suspension lift, it significantly changes the geometry and a simple adjustment is no longer adequate, because the drag link is now at increased angle at each end, and it does not have adequate travel built into the ends to accomodate that much angle. Time to start adding custom parts. The higher you go, the worse it gets and the more money it costs.

If you're talking body lift, I don't wanna go there. I'm not a fan of body lifts, except as a last ditch effort. I will concede that MAYBE one inch would be possible without too much trouble, and without the bumpers looking like they're falling off. There you have three inches pretty simple and trouble free.

But even all this simple stuff costs money. So if you're truly broke, like you said in your first post, you'll need to save for awhile to buy the parts. I suggest in the meantime you visit your nearest off-road dealer and ask some questions there and get some prices. Better yet, start reading some of the off-road magazines and you'll learn a lot. Then you can make an informed decision on what to do.



JP

[vycc]

yeah i want a 3" body lift.... a suspension lift would be great but i can't afford one..... i could settle for a 2" instead

[DrMaserati]

Originally posted by vycc
yeah i want a 3" body lift.... a suspension lift would be great but i can't afford one..... i could settle for a 2" instead

You're apparently having trouble comprehending what I'm saying. Go back and read more carefully.

You are NOT going to get three inches of body lift cheap or easy.

Once you lift the body, the bumpers are still down on the frame, three inches too low. Costs money to remedy.

The fuel filler hoses will no longer reach from the tank to the filler opening on the bed side. Costs money to remedy.

The radiator is mounted to the body. The engine is mounted to the frame. Costs money to remedy.

The steering column will no longer reach the steering box and geometry between the two has changed significantly. Costs a bunch of money to remedy correctly and safely.

The master cylinder is mounted on the body. The brake lines on the frame. Has to be remedied.

Wiring to lights on the body runs along the frame. Will likely have to be changed or lengthened.

Now do you understand why a suspension lift is preferable? It is simpler, cheaper, and gives you more clearance than a body lift.

I'm not sure how you think you can afford a body lift when you say you can't afford a suspension lift, which is cheaper. If you could scrounge some used springs, you could probably get two inches lift for almost nothing. One of us is obviously confused here.

JP

[vycc]

how is it cheaper??? compare over 1000 bucks for a suspension lift to a body lift even if it's 300 or 400 bucks...STILL CHEAPER!!!

i'm just compring the 2 to make up my mine.

[stlaser]

There not a $1000 dollars I don't even have that in mine and I bought new 3/4 ton rearched rear springs. Check out BDS Suspensions web site.

[vycc]

don't forget that i'm in Canada so double what you would pay and that's my price

[1969 GMC]

mail order a suspension lift from the US and then pay shipping...still less

[Bluegoose972]

I guess I'm in the minority here, but I have had good success with body lifts. I have had one on a 85 Chevy 3/4 ton and one on a 86 Chevy Blazer. This was also in combination to a 4" lift on the 3/4 ton and a 6" lift on the Blazer. Everything that has been pointed out is pretty much correct, but they are making the repairs sound a little worse than they really are.

Most good body lifts can be purchased that have detailed instructions on how to adjust these items. But with a little "do-it-yourself" attitude, you can probably handle all the fixes.

Here are some things that I remember having to fix.

#1 The fan will hit the fan shroud when the body moves up. The bottom half of the fan shroud will need to be cut off. This can cause overheating problems. If your engine runs cool, then not a problem...Mine didn't and I installed a larger radiator.

#2 The gas tanks on my truck hung down below the body, which was really ugly. I drained the tanks, unbolted them from the frame, redrilled the necessary holes, and remounted the tanks. It should be a weekend job. Since I don't count my time as an expense, since I enjoy working on these things, it didn't cost me anything.

#3 The front bumper hung down 3" low. This is a matter of taste. There was about a 1/2" gap above the bumper, to the body/grill area. I really didn't mind that look, so I never changed it. I added a grill guard and a couple of lights and you couldn't even tell. Some guys don't like this, which I can understand also. But that can also be fixed. By cutting off the frame horn and reattaching it up three inches, you can keep the bumper at the original looking location. A cheap fix if you can run a torch and welder.

#4 My bumper on the 3/4 ton was easy to fix. There was even a whole at the right location, so only one additional hole was require for the bumper to look like it came from the factory. That was my setup, which was easy. The blazer was much more difficult and I finally just installed a different bumper to fix it and cover up the gas tank.

#5 On both of my trucks, there was enough give in the steering shaft slip joint (not sure if that is the correct terminology) to allow for the 3" increase in height. The kit will explain that and you can talk with the manufacturer for verification. No repair require, UNLESS, you do what I did. When lift the Blazer, I jacked up the front drivers corner TOO HIGH....about 5" instead of the 3" needed. This ruptured the seal on the power steering pump. My bad!

I have used body lifts with good results. My intent was to minimize the steering geometry problems involved with large suspension lifts. Many people don't like them and I can see their side also....But it is my truck and it works for me!

If your only looking for a couple of inches, I would search the available manufactures for an "Add-a-leaf" system. I used one of these on the back springs of my truck one time and it worked great. Simply pull the spring out, undo the center pin, insert the spring into the pack, and install the new, longer center pin. Gave me about 2" lift.

Rick

P.S. DO NOT USE FRONT LIFT BLOCKS!

[vycc]

i was looking into using the "add-a-leaf" system on my chev, but i was looking at different opions for lifting because i'm new to the 4x4 scene. could i use stock leafs and add more to the pack.. would that give me more lift??? how long would it take to install the body lift??

PS - bluegoose do have any pics of your bodylifted chevs, i want to see if it looks bad or not..never seen it

[DrMaserati]

Originally posted by vycc
could i use stock leafs and add more to the pack.. would that give me more lift???

Absolutely! That's what I've been trying to get across to you. I suggested that in my first post and again in the third one. They don't even have to be springs from a Chevy pickup. Any spring with the same width and at least as much arch will work. Ideally, find some which are thicker and have a little more arch and you'll get more lift. You can find old springs cheap or free, so don't spend a lot of money on Add-a-leaf springs. If you can do that, the most expensive part is going to be new, longer U-bolts. Your step-dad can easily make longer center pins for the spring packs.

If you're a good scavenger you can probably do the whole project for less than $50.

JP

[vycc]

sorry man, not thinking .... how much stiffer would it make my ride. i don't want to compress any disks in my back or anything. i could handle a LITTLE stiffer but if it's going to be huge amounts then i'll look for something else. gimmy some help, and all your guuys suggestions have been great, keep'em comin'.

[stlaser]

If you want a softer ride here's a solution, since you will already have the springs out and apart. Go to your local farm supply store and buy what is called graphite paint they use it on the inside of grain hopper wagons it lets the corn slide to the shute opening quicker. Apply this between each spring. Believe it or not it helps out tremendously. So you should be able to add the leafs you need and still maintain or improve your ride quality.

[vycc]

that's cool, i've never heard of that before... do you know this because you've done it???? how does help out with the ride quality??? please explain...how much does that paint cost??? i'm looking for the cheapest way to lift my truck and this sounds great keep the ideas coming, you guys are helping me out lots

[vycc]

stlaser i PM'ed you