New to site, got my truck, i have questions

[sameyeam]

Hey guys, new to the site, i just picked up a 1972 Chev K20, small block, automatic, with a holmes 440 wrecker unit on it. My grandpa actually ordered it new and through some searching we were able to acquire it again. I am happy to have a site like this to help me along with this new project, so thanks ahead of time for your advise and answers to questions im sure i will have.

Now this truck was a northern wisconsin truck its whole life, and needless to say she's got some rot, i am going to attempt to post some pictures and i am wondering if this sort of this is worth fixing or is it fighting a losing battle and i should start the search for a new cab?

[sameyeam]

Here are some more pics

[sameyeam]

A few more, one of when it was in grandpa's service shop and what i hope to return it to

[BurnoutNova]

That will be an awesome truck when it's done. It looks like it has a dual rear wheel axle in the back... Was that added to it? I know they never offered a factory DRW 4x4 until 76 (I think 76 anyway) Or was this one a factory conversion?

Pretty cool to have a 4x4 wrecker, but I guess you need it in Wisconsin!

[sameyeam]

Thank you very much Burnoutnova, the rear axle is original to our knowledge, someone along the way found a set of dually rims and slapped them on. My plan is to go back to original single rear wheel. The fact that it is a 4x4 is really cool, i plan on having it rust proofed the best i can to make it winter friendly.

[Xeen]

The cab repair is relative, it all depends on how far you want to go with it.
If you are doing the metal work then the only thing stopping you is fear and air.

[67cheby]

man I don't know what shipping would cost but you can pick up a MUCH nicer cab down here for $500 or less ??

[sameyeam]

I guess fear is the big factor, i am a mechanical person but have never done any body work in this sense, ive watched some how to videos and tried to find some threads on this sort of repair but havent gained alot of confidence. But this seems to be one of those things that if you just dive into it you can work through it.

[Xeen]

The deal is if you don't know how to weld and fabricate then you either need to buy the equipment and teach yourself, or prepare to pay ALOT of money to have someone else do the repairs and unfortunately most of the time they are substandard, you will have to really search hard to find someone that will do quality work.

[sameyeam]

I have access to the necessary tools to do this work, my big question is for those that have done rust repair this extensive, was it worth it? Or is a cab in better shape just a better option?

[67swb72klb]

first welcome to the site cool history on the truck i think you will be better off changing the cab than trying to patch that one up good luck and have fun with it

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by sameyeam

I have access to the necessary tools to do this work, my big question is for those that have done rust repair this extensive, was it worth it? Or is a cab in better shape just a better option?

Get another cab. I wen through the same thing with a truck that looked about like that one. Either pay top dollar for a nice cab and be done, or spend just as much money, and a bunch of time repairing your cab.

Get it titled first tho before you swap cabs... much less painful at the DMV

[Xeen]

There are alot of guys that have taken on jobs that big and have done a great job, the question is can you find a cab localy that was repaired correctly with all the new metal butt welded instead of overlaid and for a reasonable price, anything around $1,000-$1,500 for one done right is a good deal, but make them prove it, they need to let you sand off the primer and let you see the welds, if they won't let you see the bare metal they aren't being honest, so ask in advance before you even go look at it.
If you get permission take a polycarbide disk and a side angle grinder and some primer and primer sealer to put back on it after you look.

[gdavis]

Take it from me. My cab was about the same way. I welled and grind for three weeks. Then I looked and found so much more than meets the eys. So I bought another cab that had the same issuse that my first cab had only the roof was not eat up so I done it again. Welded and grind and welded and grind. About 4 months and now I have a solid cab. I guess I have a total of 800 hours working on both cabs. So make up your mind on what is important to you time or money. If I had to do it all over I would buy a cab will little work as possable. But this is my thought.

[gdavis]

You can trust Keen. What he is telling you is the truth. It is better to gane on the front part of the build. You might regret it later if you chose the laddle. There three guys here that I know from experence that will steer you right. Four counting Me.
Keen, mustard, bomp is the next. they will help you in anyway they can.

[sameyeam]

Thanks guys this is much appreciated, and after looking at what i have some more i have decided to search for a different cab, which raises more questions. Will any year cab work on my 72? I know fenders and front ends had differences but the cabs i am not sure. Secondly i have 4wd so therefore i should look for a "high hump" or big block cab ideally and if not can a 2wd cab be made to fit by raising the tunnel? Thanks again
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by sameyeam

Thanks guys this is much appreciated, and after looking at what i have some more i have decided to search for a different cab, which raises more questions. Will any year cab work on my 72? I know fenders and front ends had differences but the cabs i am not sure. Secondly i have 4wd so therefore i should look for a "high hump" or big block cab ideally and if not can a 2wd cab be made to fit by raising the tunnel? Thanks again
Posted via Mobile Device

There are a couple of differences in the cabs over the years I will cover as many as I can remember.
67-68: linkage throttle, roof mounted rearview mirror, no cargo light, hand operated parking brake.
69-70: cable throttle, roof mounted mirror, cargo light, foot operated parking brake, B-pillar vents.
71-72: cable throttle, windshield mounted mirror, cargo light, foot operated parking brake, B-Pillar vents.
*Note: I may be wrong about the windshield mounted mirror on the 71, it might be a 72 only feature.
It doesnt matter what cab you get you can transplant the high hump from your current cab.

[gdavis]

everything can be trans planted into from a 72 to a 67. or 67 to 72 the hand brake is no problem I removed mine and installed foot type. All you have to do is drill new holes in the far left fire wall to attach the foot brake. the low or high hump can also be replace with what ever you like in your case the high hump. the 67/68 had a different type gas pedal and linkage so the 72 will on in it's place with no problem.
every thing keen is telling can be mounted in a 67 thru 72 or 72 to 67. I am using a 69 cab on a 67 frame. the mounts on the cab is the same. The e-brake cable that goes thru the fire wall is different on the 67/68. So do yourself a favor DO NOT GET RID OF ANYTHING UNTILL YOU ARE FINSHED WITH THE SWAP

[sameyeam]

Good to know...the search is on for a different cab, being in wi ill probably look down south and either go get it or hire someone to haul it back.....also ive heard there are companies in the northern states that specialize in this sort of search so ill be looking into that as well, thanks guys ill keep updates coming
Posted via Mobile Device

[sameyeam]

Maybe i should start a build thread for my project but here is an update, my dad did some scouting for me a few weeks ago at the swap meet in Jefferson, WI. He said he went for parts for his 67 Pontiac Catalina convertible but ended up spending a good amount of my money, oh well, i think the money is well spent on a rust free cab and complete front clip from florida. Seller said it was the best one he had seen in 20 years of parting hmm so, will be going to get that this weekend then the plan of attack has to be formulated, been looking at alot of trucks on here to get ideas on things id like to do, this is going to be a mostly stock build with some modern touches like am/fm radio, nicer head lights, hei conversion and im sure ill find some other subtle changes to make, one thing i have been thinkin about is my wiring, through the years a different owners it has been hacked pretty bad, what have you guys with bad wiring done? lmc harness, painless? any input is appreciated

[Xeen]

Congrats on finding a good cab and front clip, lets hope it's as nice as advertised, what year is the cab and front clip?
You have tons of wiring options, Painless is super expensive, but then there is no such thing as a cheap wiring harness, some are more expensive then others, there are lots of options take the time to look around and find one for a good price.
If you have questions don't be afraid to ask I am happy to help you out and there are a lot of other good people here that will help you any way they can as well.

[71' Custom]

Originally Posted by Xeen

There are a couple of differences in the cabs over the years I will cover as many as I can remember.
67-68: linkage throttle, roof mounted rearview mirror, no cargo light, hand operated parking brake.
69-70: cable throttle, roof mounted mirror, cargo light, foot operated parking brake, B-pillar vents.
71-72: cable throttle, windshield mounted mirror, cargo light, foot operated parking brake, B-Pillar vents.
*Note: I may be wrong about the windshield mounted mirror on the 71, it might be a 72 only feature.
It doesnt matter what cab you get you can transplant the high hump from your current cab.

Yeah, mt 71 had roof mounted mirror, not too sure about 72 though.

[litew8]

72's (only) should all be window mounted rear view mirrors.

[sameyeam]

the cab is a 1970 gmc cab, with the matching front clip, i am going to sell the grille and headlights ect, but one thing im wondering is will the 70 fenders work with the 72 chevy grille? LMC lists 70 and 72 chevy fenders as different which raises my question?

[Ol Blue K20]

GMC fenders 68-72 are the same as 68 chevy. They will not work with 71-72 grill