lwb laying frame ?`s

[2002yanks]

i got a 67 lwb fleetside and plan on laying frame. i have been gathering parts over the winter and now its getting close to install time. have a few questions and could use some help. i have searched and searched but couldnt find what i need.

waiting to install i have a sectioned crossmember(2"), pb narrowed a arms, slosh tubz pb hood hinges, unisteer u joints and bar for steering, pb front extreme shock mounts and shocks. kp bolt in monster notch and watts link, custom rear bag plates for outside the frame behind the axle kyb shocks, and ridetech air ride control, ss7 and 9000 bags. also a set of 7" front and 8" rear rally wheels. will be running 27" tall rear tires and 26.5" tall fronts.

what i have been looking for is potential clearance problems with stock trailing arms on the frame. i do have 1" drop blocks now(so it helps some). also i have a 250 i6 with 3 ott. i have a one piece driveshaft with cpp trailing arm crossmember. couldnt find any pics of 1 piece driveshaft( on lwb frame laying out). any issues there? or do i need to switch to a two piece driveshaft? if anyone has these pics or any info post away. if you had issues and solved post up what you did . thanks!
Kevin

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

If your going to run the factory truck arm you'll need the 2 piece driveshaft.

The shaft is supposed to pivot in line with the truck arms to avoid bind.

[ihssalky]

Stock arms end up hitting frame when aired out. Some cut to clear. Not really a good idea.
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[Bennett68C10]

I think you are going to run into an issue with the stock trailing arms. They will hit the frame before your frame touches the ground. On my Porterbuilt extreme rear kit I have his 3" drop arms and they don't clear the frame by that much when fully dumped. They are also a round tube design and are a lot more compact then the factory trailing arms. I would just set it up the way you have it and if you don't like the way it looks, you can always just change the arms later on. I would also switch to a 2 piece driveshaft cause you will need to tunnel your cab and probably that cpp crossmember for driveshaft clearance with a 1 piece.
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[tinydb84]

Side note: With your crossmember sectioned 2'' you will likely run into steering issues.

[2002yanks]

ok, looks like i need to find a 2pc driveshaft then(thats what i was thinking). should re name it the ss money pit. just when you think you have everything you need, bam theres something else to get.

tiny, i know the steering needs attention. i did order a unisteer joint and shaft kit to solve that, but i also plan to raise it all up 1-2"`s to clear the ubolt on loser arms(and notch the frame there).

[2002yanks]

would the porterbuilt 1" drop trailing arms allow me to layout? i will be running 15" rims with a 27 " tall rear tire(so the 3" would not work for me). or maybe even the cpp/ridetech ones?

or should i consider going to a parallel 4 link?

anyone who has done it on stock ones and cut the frame to clear have pics? wondering how bad it is.

[2002yanks]

ok guys, i`m getting a 2 piece shaft from another member(todd68chevy-thanks). just need to get new u joints and carrier bearing.

looking at other threads i see some on 15`s with pb rear dropmember with the 3 inch drop trailing arms. wouldnt there be scrub line issues using these with 15" wheels? or because the u-bolts not going through does it equal it out? i know i have read not to use a 2 inch drop block on 15" rim(1.5 was ok). just triing to figure it out.

[502ms]

Take a look at my build thread. You may need to move trailing arms outboard.
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[2002yanks]

thanks guys. looks like i found a way around this. i know how Kieth(bennett-g4l) feels, going on my 3rd setup for the rear.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 2002yanks

ok guys, i`m getting a 2 piece shaft from another member(todd68chevy-thanks). just need to get new u joints and carrier bearing.

looking at other threads i see some on 15`s with pb rear dropmember with the 3 inch drop trailing arms. wouldnt there be scrub line issues using these with 15" wheels? or because the u-bolts not going through does it equal it out? i know i have read not to use a 2 inch drop block on 15" rim(1.5 was ok). just triing to figure it out.

I tested one of the 1st sets of PB's 3" arms w/a 15" steelie. The scrub line was above the wheel lip w/the shorter 1" arms shock bracket. The 3" shock bracket did hang lower than the lip of the wheel (for reference, it was still better than a factory truck arm w/a 2" block).

He makes another shock mounting system as well that prob is the better way to go. It eliminates the scrub issues & allows better shock geometry.

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by 2002yanks

thanks guys. looks like i found a way around this. i know how Kieth(bennett-g4l) feels, going on my 3rd setup for the rear.

Lol you sound like me, what are your plans now for the rear
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[2002yanks]

found a pb extreme drop member brand new on ebay for a great deal(basically free shipping and no wait-well 1 week to ship fed ex). was thinking of just getting a set of a arms from them, but if i sell off what i already bought(for close to what i paid) i will end up with about 500 in it to upgrade to the full kit(less than the arms costs). so i thought it was a no brainer.