Complete brake job - insights?

[62lwbc10]

Dear All, Im getting ready to perform a complete brake job on my 58 1/2 ton short step. Im keeping the truck completely original, got a new original style master cylinder, all new drums, pads, hoses, wheel cylinders, spring kits, adjuster wheels, and upgraded to roller bearings all around. Ive never worked on brakes before and will have a buddy join me who is experienced. Still, I wanted to ask if there are any tips, pitfalls, etc that you would offer that could save me some time, or just prepare me for the work. Is it a pain in the butt? Ive had guys tell me its a breeze to do the brakes on these old trucks, others not so much. ANy insights would be appreciated.

Thanks, Mark

[Rude Dude]

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...55ctsm0501.htm

[Dodger]

Hey 62,

I just finished my brakes on a 50 3/4 ton and hated most of it!

The rears caused me some headaches with the emergency brake cables. Not sure of your set up but if your e brake is in your hub, make sure you check for cable binding in there etc.

I struggled and swore a lot trying to get the brake springs off and on with muti grips, pliers, screwdrivers etc etc.

To void that get yourself a set of these



Best $10 I spent on the brake system!

Let us know how you go along the way, might be some more tips to give you as you go.
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[coralhead]

Originally Posted by 62lwbc10

Dear All, Im getting ready to perform a complete brake job on my 58 1/2 ton short step. Im keeping the truck completely original, got a new original style master cylinder, all new drums, pads, hoses, wheel cylinders, spring kits, adjuster wheels, and upgraded to roller bearings all around. Ive never worked on brakes before and will have a buddy join me who is experienced. Still, I wanted to ask if there are any tips, pitfalls, etc that you would offer that could save me some time, or just prepare me for the work. Is it a pain in the butt? Ive had guys tell me its a breeze to do the brakes on these old trucks, others not so much. ANy insights would be appreciated.

Thanks, Mark

I believe you should replace all the brake lines (hardlines) as well. I took my '50 3600 out over the weekend for its first shakedown ride and was doing great until I had to apply a lot of pressure to the brakes and the pedal went to the floor. I did make it home with no brakes but saw that a hard line split and I put all the fluid out and onto the frame. That was the only thing I did not redo since the PO said he just redid the brakes. It appear he only did the wheel cylinders. I got home and pulled off all the brake lines and master cylinder. I ordered a new dual master cylinder and bracket. It's not original but upgraded dual brake mastercylinder is OK with me.

[Dodger]

Don't say that Coralhead,

I take my 50 3600 for its shakedown this afternoon/tomorrow and to rego inspection Friday.

I did have to replace I steel brake hose that was leaking at the flare.

Ill watch carefully.
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[Coach529]

Brake lines for sure.

I would also be hard pressed if going that far to update to a modern dual master cylinder.

Just my .02.

[Dan in Pasadena]

1. Follow the manual to which Rudy posted a link.

2. If you're going to own one of these trucks and KEEP the brakes original I'd suggest you go buy a couple specialty tools made for drum brake jobs. You don't HAVE to have them, but like anything else - the right tool makes the job much easier!

Maybe Dodger's tool is unique to Down Under? Anyway:



The tool in the middle is for compressing & holding the brake shoes retainer assembly. This holds the shoe on the backing plate. It allows you to twist this spring & retainer assy. to "lock" the retainer over the compressed spring.

The tool on the right is for stretching the long springs over the anchor point (you'll see it when you pull the drum) Which reminds me, TAKE A FEW PICTURES BEFORE YOU TEAR IT ALL APART!
This tool also serves to take these long springs off. You just hook the "tooth" on that black end on the spring hook and twist it off.

The thing on the left is the "spoon" for adjusting the brakes.

Remember that the leading and following shoe are NOT the same length. Make a note of which goes where!

Best of luck and watch some Youtube videos. It isn't that hard.

[Dan in Pasadena]

One more thing if you DON'T end up changing all the lines. When you bleed the brakes, pump the fluid out until ALL the dirty fluid comes out so you end up with all new fluid.

I DEFINITELY side with those telling you to swap in a dual master cylinder and lines - if they've never been change (and you probably don't know!) BE SAFE! BE SAFE! BE SAFE!

Did I mention be safe? 50 year old lines are UNSAFE. Single reservoir master cylinders are UNSAFE now that duals exist.

[mr48chev]

Autozone, O'Reilly's or Sears all should have the brake pliers that Dodger showed. I've had my SnapOn brake pliers that those are similar to for over 45 years since I bought them off the Tool truck when I was in trade school.

The set that Dan in Pasadena showed is good to have even when you have the pliers or this set has some good pieces for the price TEKTON 5820 Drum Brake Tool Set, 7-Piece -...
Here, this should be a selection from O'Reillys http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...0676/C0067.oap

[mr48chev]

I hate that 30 minute limit on editing.

A couple of things to remember.
The shoe with the less lining always goes in front and the one with the most lining goes in back. Some cheap lining is the same length and some cheap lining has different material on the primary and secondary shoes.
The other is to tape the lining of the shoes with masking tape before you start installing them. It will save getting fingerprints and other contamination on the lining and you just pull it off when you have the brakes all together.

Last and not least if you run into a problem ask for help. We have a batch of pretty experienced wrenches on here who can usually help someone figure things out in short order.

[solidaxel]

I just read in one of my older Corvette books that the spring tension on the brake shoes springs are of a different tension for the front and rear shoe in each drum

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I just read in one of my older Corvette books that the spring tension on the brake shoes springs are of a different tension for the front and rear shoe in each drum

That's why you've gotta put everything back where it came from. Hence, take pictures before tearing it apart when you're not as familiar with drum brakes.
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[lazypineapple]

do one side at a time, so you dont get lost.

[Rufton]

Soak threads w/ penetrating oil day before.
Use vise grips instead of line wrench for the stubborn nuts.

[yossarian19]

Originally Posted by lazypineapple

do one side at a time, so you dont get lost.

I'm a professional mechanic and gotta say : this is one of the Automotive Commandments.

Absolutely do NOT take apart both sides at once when you can avoid it. If you can't, label & separate parts according to where they came from. I've seen lots of mistakes made (and made several myself) due to violation of this rule.

Also - if you aren't doing a pointedly 100% original restoration (opting for roller bearings) then forgodsake go with a modern master cylinder, too. Especially important if you are keeping your 50 year old brake lines.

I'd recommend going on Amazon.com and buying nickel-copper brake tubing. It's really easy to work with, night & day vs steel. You don't even need to make a template with the nickel-copper stuff - just climb under the truck & roll it out, bend it to fit. I bought steel line for the rear of my truck & ni-cop for the front... I can't even tell you how much I'd rather have bought ni-cop for both. Well worth the money.

Other than that... Yeah, buy some quality drum brake service tools. THey'll make life easier.
Enjoy!

[Daze57]

great words of advice from all the above !

[Dan in Pasadena]

Buy line wrenches. Save yourself the cursing! Lol.
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[Russell Ashley]

All good advice so far, especially going to a dual master cylinder, and using the nickel-copper line.

If you are going to be keeping the truck for a long time, and driving it regularly another thing I would suggest is adding the self adjusters. It's not hard and the parts to do it aren't expensive.

You can tell we are all "car guy's" (and ladies) here on this forum. You asked for advice on a stocker and we tell you to buy some tools, and make mods to the truck.

[lmdangerous]

Dual master cylinder is a must . Its fun to run up to the red light like all the other crazy people and watch them draw up cause they are so sure yours won't stop. THe look is priceless. wave , smile and drive off - SAFELY

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by lmdangerous

Dual master cylinder is a must . Its fun to run up to the red light like all the other crazy people and watch them draw up cause they are so sure yours won't stop. THe look is priceless. wave , smile and drive off - SAFELY

That wouldn't work here 90% of the drivers are clueless about anything outside their cars!

[62lwbc10]

Thanks to all of you for the excellent feedback! I'll let you know how I make out.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by lazypineapple

do one side at a time, so you dont get lost.

Agreed, especially for a first time guy doing a brake job that is something to take into high consideration. It's a lot easier to walk around to the other side and see the mirror image of what you are working on than start hunting in books or online.

Digital photos of the brake assembly after you pull the drum off are really handy too. That's something we didn't have when I was often doing several brake jobs a day in the Firestone store I worked in in the early 70's that would have saved a lot of time figuring things out. The old "does this spring go this way or that way thing can be a pain.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by lazypineapple

do one side at a time, so you dont get lost.

this^^, new flex lines, new hard lines, tools

[62lwbc10]

Thanks guys, sorry if its a stupid question, but more than one of you has said to do one side at a time. So this means I should do the front and rear brakes on, say the drivers side first and then do the same on the pass side? I was thinking to do both fronts first, then do the rears. I take it from the comments that this is not correct? Whats the reason to do one side at a time?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Do it one side at a time, not front then rear.

Reason? So that when you get one corner apart, and despite your photos, sketches, mental notes, you're not QUITE certain how it goes back? You can simply pull the drum off the other side to be CERTAIN

As for front vs. rear? Yes they're likely nearly the same - emphasis on nearly. You know already that they're at least a little different because if nothing else the rears have provisions for attaching the emergency brake cables. None of us will be over your shoulder when you're doing this so wouldn't you much rather know for CERTAIN that you've got an identical setup to check your work?
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