fender mounting

[jbgroby]

I'm a devil of a time getting the front fender(s) on aligned. I've attached a few pictures for your review and am needed to ask the following STUPID questions.


From what I can see and tell it seems as though the entire from inner fender are sitting correctly and I installed the rad support with the supplied washers in the OEM manual correct order.


Having said that, the lower rear of the of the ps fender is laying past the rocker panel and door edge. All the other holes are lined up along the top of the fender where she meets the inner fender,same for the holes for the font clip (bar bell support) etc.


In my VERY limited experience it seems as though the entire from of the truck needs to be raised about 1/2 inch? IS this common? Is it because more shims are needed under the rad support?


Any pointers you can give would be great.

[aerotruk63]

Shim the rear cab mounts to tilt the front of the cab forward as well as shim the rad support to drop the rear section of fender? Everything is pivoting on the front cab supports. If to much shim is required, try shaving the front cab cushions. I'm guessing here.

[jbgroby]

Don't really know, but I have enough washers to make up the difference, plus the rubber washers that came with the kit.

I spoke to a member who has done this before. I am supposed to mount the rear of the fender on the 3 rear most locations first the upper air plenum and front pillar post and one lower cab mount location. This are fixed points and cannot move (so to speak) you leave them loose. Then adjust the front of the rad support as needed. Once everything is close. Start at the rear and slowly tighten ALL the bolts on a cris-cross pattern.

I got all excited and was ready to mount and discovered that the lower inner bolt location will need to be re-drilled and tapped. I need to step up to
7/16nc14 and will need to drill a 25/64th. pilot hole for the tap - anticipation is making me crazy.

I was a cussin' the cheap harbor freight tap setI bought, Friday I'm hitting sears for a decent one.

Jake

[vin63]

That's basically how I align the fenders, as well - leaving the fasteners finger tight while aligning the panels. Then I torque the radiator support to the frame mounts first. I actually did this over the weekend as I mocked up the side mouldings on my truck, getting ready for paint later this year (clearancing all of the mount holes so that it goes together a little easier after paint) - you can check my Facebook page for the photos updates. The critical things for me are using new rubber bushings for the cab mounts AND the radiator support (if one set is new, I make sure the other set is new, too) - it's too difficult for me if friends or customers mix and match the rubber mount bushings. To answer your question in your first post, yes, if the cab mounts are properly torqued, then the radiator support needs to be shimmed up to make up the lower trailing edge of the fender overhang passed the door.

[jbgroby]

Vin,

The cab molunts are new as well as the rad support kit (RSK). I'm going to get past the rear moutn hole issue first (tap and re-drill) get that out of the way. The RSK came with new rubber washers as well as thick steel washer. Below is the page from LMC.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=19

What I have done is add extra washers to the section under the support.

Of course I can't work on the truck for the next 3 days because of Council business - go figure!

[61K10]

are you using the org sheet-metal ? on mine with new after market fenders, i had to move my cab back about 1/4 inch on one side. keep everything loose and go cab forward to rad support. i also fit all my sheet metal with just primer, even the doors.-------good luck, and let us know how it comes out.

[jbgroby]

Yep everything is OEM. chevy gave me some good advise that I will try friday or saturday when I can get back in the garage.